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July 12 2014

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13 posts tagged "Helmut Newton"

Fashion’s Figures: Then And Now

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What determines the feminine ideal? Mannequin—Le corps de la mode (“Model: The Body of Fashion”), the latest of Paris’ Musée Galliera’s off-site exhibitions, aims to find an answer. The show, which runs from February 16 through May 19, examines why trends like wasp waists, swan necks, or 5′ 11″ frames (à la Karlie Kloss) have driven women’s aesthetic aspirations since the first models replaced store mannequins in late-nineteenth-century Paris.

Curator Sylvie Lécallier sifted through fashion magazine illustrations, photographs, and videos to chart the jump from one fashionable body type to the next: the twenties knock-kneed flappers, the sixties childlike Courrèges girls “sans hips, waists, or breasts,” the eighties power women who were captured in Helmut Newton’s “Big Nudes,” and beyond. The show includes photos of the earliest It girls, like a series of Nelly Martyl, a star of Paris’ Opéra Comique in the 1910s. She was one of the first stars to be featured as a model in the era’s top fashion magazines. Also on display are iconic images like Corinne Day’s 1990 shot of a topless Kate Moss, Juergen Teller’s 1996 photo of a nude Kristen McMenamy (she has “Versace” painted on her chest inside a red heart), dark surreal works by Guy Bourdin, and more. Continue Reading “Fashion’s Figures: Then And Now” »

Jason Wu Spring ’13, Unbuttoned

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Jason Wu has built his name on pretty and proper, but come New York fashion week, perhaps we will be seeing the designer flirt with another P word: provocative. In between back-to-back fittings, the designer revealed to Style.com that Helmut Newton’s notoriously seductive photographs are a key source of inspiration for his new collection. To set the mood, the designer enlisted La Perla this season to add a sexy touch to his super-feminine looks. “It has been an incredible experience collaborating with La Perla and having access to all the amazing things we could create with their specialized techniques,” he tells Style.com. “They understood my vision for the Spring collection and went above and beyond my expectations in creating the most luxurious accent pieces to go with my designs.” Above, a teaser of what’s to come (we wouldn’t want to give too much away just yet—that’s the art of seduction, after all).

Photo: Courtesy of La Perla

Lagerfeld On All Things Royal, Including Kate Middleton’s Backside, And More of Today’s Top Stories

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Karl Lagerfeld had a busy weekend. In addition to preparing for the Chanel Couture show next month and hosting French television channel France 2′s coverage of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, the designer took a stab at sketching Her Majesty. Although he meant to showcase the Angela Kelly dress that the Queen wore to the affair, Lagerfeld added his own special touches, and tweeted the image once he was finished (pictured). [Telegraph]

In other Lagerfeld news, sketching the Queen wasn’t the only way that the designer proved he was a royal enthusiast. During the Diamond Jubilee coverage, he admitted that Kate Middleton’s rear end is as “lovely as her sister’s.” [Huff Po]

Mark Arbeit, George Holz, and Just Loomis are staging a Helmut Newton homecoming. Protégés of the photographer, they have co-curated an exhibit entitled Three Boys From Pasadena: A Tribute to Helmut Newton, which opens June 14 at the Williamson Gallery of the Art Center College of Design in Pasadena. The location here is key, as Los Angeles was where the iconic lensman spent most of his life. [WWD]

Congratulations are in order for basketball star and fashion darling Amar’e Stoudemire. The Knicks star, who’s known to frequent fashion events, is engaged to be married to Alexis Welch, the mother of his three kids. Stoudemire popped the question in Paris during a romantic evening overlooking the Eiffel Tower. Could that be any cuter? [Page Six]

Jean Paul Gaultier is going co-ed again during Couture and skipping out on a runway show during the Paris menswear fashion week later this month. Despite being on the provisional menswear calendar, Gaultier will stage an all-day presentation of men’s ready-to-wear at his Paris showroom instead. [WWD]

 

 

 

 

Tara Subkoff Suits Up

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To showcase her first-ever collaboration with bespoke tailoring label Doyle Mueser, Tara Subkoff drew upon her penchant for noir. “I am a huge film noir fan and also a Hitchcock fan,” she says. “I wanted to make the film inspired by old movies, but with a modern unexpected twist—the same concept as Imitation of Christ.” Her film starts with gunshots and a man following a bad guy down Mulberry Street (“one of the few remaining places that can look like old New York from the old movies”), but as it turns out, the bad guy is actually a woman. Of course, she’s well disguised in Imitation of Christ x Doyle Mueser’s vamped-up take on menswear (part of Imitation of Christ’s Fall 2012 collection).

“This is a very old-school couture opportunity for a woman to get to experience the full tradition of making an appointment, coming in privately to have a personal fitting with myself and Jake Mueser, and picking out whatever fabric and lining they want and which jacket, pant, skirt, or short looks the best for their body type and lifestyle,” says Subkoff. “The designs are templates for suggested styles that, to me, are the most flattering suit shapes for women—very inspired by Helmut Newton photographs, which always depicted sexy and strong sophisticated women who seemed powerful.” Items can be ordered by private appointment with Doyle Mueser in NYC. However, on June 7, they are hosting a party from 7-9 p.m. at Against Nature (159 Chrystie St., NYC), open to anyone who wants to come down and view the collection and is interested in making a private appointment for a fitting and to place a made-to-measure order. Style.com has an exclusive first look at the film, The Suits, below.

Über Auermann

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German model Nadja Auermann rose to supe-level stardom in the nineties alongside the Cindys, Claudias, and Christys of the world—with whom she starred in the iconic Avedon Versace campaign—but has largely left the runways in recent years, preferring to focus on her acting career and family. But for Markus Ebner, editor in chief of the German fashion glossy Achtung Mode, Auermann was too good to let go. He coaxed her back to the page a year and a half after the birth of her third child for the cover of his latest issue, dedicated to another homegrown German innovation: techno. “Techno was born in Berlin,” the story has it. “And so was Nadja Auermann, the city’s most famous blonde beauty and Helmut’s most Newtonesque face and figure of this capital.”

Ebner and photographer Ralph Mecke took Auermann to the clubs where techno was born to shoot Auermann in Gareth Pugh, Dior Homme, and YSL. “Germany seems to produce an iconic blonde model every few years,” Ebner tells Style.com. “To photograph them is one of the linchpins of Achtung. There is Claudia Schiffer, Toni Garrn, Christina Kruse, and Julia Stegner, [but] the coolest-looking was always Nadja Auermann, often photographed in a subversive and sexy way by Helmut Newton, her fellow Berliner.” “Nobody else looks like Nadja,” Mecke adds. “She is the anti-Barbie doll—not from the cookie cutter model maker factory. Striking, unafraid, and elegant with an edge.”

The cover debuts exclusively on Style.com, as does the video below, which features Auermann at Berlin’s legendary Tresor, the club where techno was born, set to “Code Blue,” a track by Terranova from their forthcoming album Hotel Amour.


Photo: Ralph Mecke / Courtesy of Achtung Mode