9 posts tagged "Henrik Vibskov"
Given Copenhagen’s chilly climate, it’s no surprise that during the city’s biannual fashion week, which wrapped on Friday, Scandinavian designers turned out warm, functional garments. Gorgeous coats were staples, and some of the best came from Designers Remix’s uniform-inspired collection. Fur was also a fixture, and particularly stood out on rising star Freya Dalsjø’s runway (above, left). Her use of color-blocking brought new dimension to her mink coats and pumps.
After a few seasons of absence, Danish favorites Wackerhaus and Stine Goya (above, right) made strong returns to Copenhagen fashion week. The former presented layers of tailored, feminine garments, while the latter enlisted top Danish models Lykke May and Louise P to showcase her voluminous lavender, baby blue, and mint green wares. Those looking for decadence got their fill at By Malene Birger. The brand’s namesake founder departed the label last season, and the Fall ’14 collection was designed by Christina Exsteen. The lineup, with its seventies-inspired maxi-glam feel, was true to the brand and felt younger and more directional than previous By Malene Birger offerings.
Both Anne Sofie Madsen and Asger Juel Larsen (above, left) were inspired by Antarctica this season, but each of their collections showcased the respective designer’s signatures, and demonstrated why these two talents are gaining international recognition. Madsen’s white furs definitely caught editors’ eyes, as did her intricate, ice-crystal-like dresses. Meanwhile, Larsen’s techno-inspired, tribal-printed collection had a campy quality, and was one of the top outings of the season. Wali Mohammed Barrech’s black-and-red ninja looks also deserve a mention—he’s one of the city’s most interesting up-and-comers. We’ll be keeping our eye on him.
Copenhagen’s clique of clever urban brands, Wood Wood, Baum und Pferdgarten, and Henrik Vibskov (above, right), were at it again for Fall ’14. Vibskov’s spaghetti-inspired collection gave a lesson in colorful joy, while Wood Wood stuck to a more sporty aesthetic. And one of Fall ’14′s biggest trends in Copenhagen—check patterns—was done best by Baum und Pferdgarten. The clothes were an unlikely combination of grunge and prep.
Copenhagen fashion week wrapped this weekend, and the Scandinavian Spring ’14 runways saw designers embrace relaxed, sportswear-inspired looks in mesh, nylon, and neoprene. A fitting trend, perhaps, seeing as informality is a big part of Copenhagen’s culture.
Danish enfant terrible Asger Juel Larsen opened the festivities, and his hard-hitting political show set a high standard. Anne Sofie Madsen delivered a striking array of intricate leather dresses, bulky tops inspired by motocross, and broad pants paired with mesh tops. She completed her looks with jewelry by Trine Tuxen. And rising star Freya Dalsjø raised the bar still, bringing in Lindsey Wixson to open her three-model-only show (above, left). Her trio of catwalkers piled on layers and layers of color-blocked silk garments before wrapping up in boxy, swoon-worthy neoprene coats for their final lap.
Henrik Vibskov showed off his print chops with an Afrocentric collection—one of his best in recent years (above, right). Baum und Pferdgarten, too, delivered strong prints—from leopard spots to stripes—on its wearable, feminine garments, and Jean//Phillip returned to the menswear scene with a lineup that included red and green reptile motifs. Continue Reading “Danes Just Wanna Have Fun” »
Label: Suzanne Rae, designed by Suzanne Rae Pelaez
Need to Know: Now in her sixth season, Suzanne Rae Pelaez pulled inspiration from the quiet simplicity of religious clothing for her Fall ’13. The result was a calm, easy collection filled with drop-waist dresses, fluid pants, oversize vests, and paneled column gowns in black, white, dusty rose, bark and rust. A matching gray-green wool top-and-shorts combo was especially sweet, and knits by Lindsay Degen, which included everything from soft, slim sweaters and skirts to turbans and snoods (Pelaez’s updated take on nuns’ habits), brought texture and warmth to the wearable range.
She Says: “I turned to the robes of missionary monks, priests, and nuns. Their clothing was so beautiful. The linear geometry, the lines, the silhouettes, the layers, the modesty that they carry—I wanted to capture that and turn it into something you could wear every day.”
Where to Find It: Steven Alan, Henrik Vibskov, and Joinery in New York; Tomorrowland in Japan
The calendar of global fashion weeks has already whipped cognoscenti around the world this year, and it’s barely February. This week, New York hosts its packed schedule of Fall shows; last week, it was Copenhagen’s turn on the world fashion stage.
Copenhagen fashion week energizes the whole city. Massive television screens beam the shows to the general public, who gather for impromptu parties on the street. Other fashion weeks have struggled to absorb trends from the axis-of-influence cities, but Copenhagen stays true to its own traditions, largely centered around loose, layers and bold prints. It’s a look done best by Henrik Vibskov, who helped define Danish design, but he’s got plenty of compatriots with collections worth seeing.
Stine Goya’s uncanny collection of graceful jumpsuits, rounded-shouldered jackets, raspberry-colored prairie-girl hats and softly draped dresses at the inspiring wood-paneled Danish Royal Danish Academy of Music was a standout (above left). So was the show from the talented Wackerhaus label, which looked like a sexed-up version of Goya’s slinkier pieces. The youthful, streetwear-leaning line Wood Wood stayed true to form with a collection of multi-layered print unisex coats, dresses and leggings in soft prints and muted shades of yellow, gray and maroon. Danish design is sometimes faulted for being overly theatrical, but any of these pieces off the runway could be easily assimilated into an everyday wardrobe. Not so those shown at Vilsbøl de Arce’s tiny presentation: lacerated leather masks, leather and wood laced boots and sculptural dresses and bodysuits (above right). They didn’t make a case for wearability, but you could easily see why the label often supplies Rihanna and Lady Gaga.
When Helena Christensen says go, you go—even, as it turns out, if it happens to be pouring rain. That’s how it went at the so-called “World’s Greatest Catwalk” that closed out Copenhagen fashion week on Saturday. Organizers laid down literally a mile of pink carpet in the city center, and Helena Christensen issued the sendoff to the more than 200 catwalkers, from infants (cradled in mom’s arms) to Denmark’s leading elderly model, all of whom hoofed it through town in looks put together by local merchants.
Rain, as it turned out, was one of the week’s overriding themes. A storm raged during Stine Goya’s show, where models glided through rooms decorated with Victorian-style installations of antique furniture and massive floral arrangements. At Wood Wood (above), the designers actually hosed down their models before sending them into the spotlight at the Den Frie contemporary art museum; with army jackets, shirtdresses, and khakis clinging to their bodies underneath backpacks, they looked like kids caught in a thunderstorm on the way home from school. On the other hand, mother nature luckily held the rain from Henrik Vibskov’s outdoor show at a park known locally as a hook-up spot (despite the swim goggles Vibskov accessorized his looks with, and the two enormous wood boats that burly men pushed into the center of the catwalk for the finale).
But rain or no rain, Copenhagen is about fun more than overly serious, capital-F fashion. Although one of the country’s most established names in womenswear, Margit Bradt (below), showed a strong collection playing on a safari theme (one picked up by several other designers as well), Soulland designer Silas Adler freely admitted that much of the best Danish style is “too basic to put on a catwalk” in Milan or Paris. (Though Adler, whose label grew out of a modest T-shirt project he started with skater friends, did throw some suits into the mix for the first time, below.) The real action in Denmark is at street-level, without the pomp and circumstance that can attend other European fashion weeks. Take Soulland’s after-party, which went down, sans formal invites, at a dive bar called Andy’s—one that the owner had to be roused from a stupor to open that night. Continue Reading “The Weather (And Fashion) Report From Copenhagen” »