8 posts tagged "Henrik Vibskov"
Copenhagen fashion week wrapped this weekend, and the Scandinavian Spring ’14 runways saw designers embrace relaxed, sportswear-inspired looks in mesh, nylon, and neoprene. A fitting trend, perhaps, seeing as informality is a big part of Copenhagen’s culture.
Danish enfant terrible Asger Juel Larsen opened the festivities, and his hard-hitting political show set a high standard. Anne Sofie Madsen delivered a striking array of intricate leather dresses, bulky tops inspired by motocross, and broad pants paired with mesh tops. She completed her looks with jewelry by Trine Tuxen. And rising star Freya Dalsjø raised the bar still, bringing in Lindsey Wixson to open her three-model-only show (above, left). Her trio of catwalkers piled on layers and layers of color-blocked silk garments before wrapping up in boxy, swoon-worthy neoprene coats for their final lap.
Henrik Vibskov showed off his print chops with an Afrocentric collection—one of his best in recent years (above, right). Baum und Pferdgarten, too, delivered strong prints—from leopard spots to stripes—on its wearable, feminine garments, and Jean//Phillip returned to the menswear scene with a lineup that included red and green reptile motifs. Continue Reading “Danes Just Wanna Have Fun” »
Label: Suzanne Rae, designed by Suzanne Rae Pelaez
Need to Know: Now in her sixth season, Suzanne Rae Pelaez pulled inspiration from the quiet simplicity of religious clothing for her Fall ’13. The result was a calm, easy collection filled with drop-waist dresses, fluid pants, oversize vests, and paneled column gowns in black, white, dusty rose, bark and rust. A matching gray-green wool top-and-shorts combo was especially sweet, and knits by Lindsay Degen, which included everything from soft, slim sweaters and skirts to turbans and snoods (Pelaez’s updated take on nuns’ habits), brought texture and warmth to the wearable range.
She Says: “I turned to the robes of missionary monks, priests, and nuns. Their clothing was so beautiful. The linear geometry, the lines, the silhouettes, the layers, the modesty that they carry—I wanted to capture that and turn it into something you could wear every day.”
Where to Find It: Steven Alan, Henrik Vibskov, and Joinery in New York; Tomorrowland in Japan
The calendar of global fashion weeks has already whipped cognoscenti around the world this year, and it’s barely February. This week, New York hosts its packed schedule of Fall shows; last week, it was Copenhagen’s turn on the world fashion stage.
Copenhagen fashion week energizes the whole city. Massive television screens beam the shows to the general public, who gather for impromptu parties on the street. Other fashion weeks have struggled to absorb trends from the axis-of-influence cities, but Copenhagen stays true to its own traditions, largely centered around loose, layers and bold prints. It’s a look done best by Henrik Vibskov, who helped define Danish design, but he’s got plenty of compatriots with collections worth seeing.
Stine Goya’s uncanny collection of graceful jumpsuits, rounded-shouldered jackets, raspberry-colored prairie-girl hats and softly draped dresses at the inspiring wood-paneled Danish Royal Danish Academy of Music was a standout (above left). So was the show from the talented Wackerhaus label, which looked like a sexed-up version of Goya’s slinkier pieces. The youthful, streetwear-leaning line Wood Wood stayed true to form with a collection of multi-layered print unisex coats, dresses and leggings in soft prints and muted shades of yellow, gray and maroon. Danish design is sometimes faulted for being overly theatrical, but any of these pieces off the runway could be easily assimilated into an everyday wardrobe. Not so those shown at Vilsbøl de Arce’s tiny presentation: lacerated leather masks, leather and wood laced boots and sculptural dresses and bodysuits (above right). They didn’t make a case for wearability, but you could easily see why the label often supplies Rihanna and Lady Gaga.
When Helena Christensen says go, you go—even, as it turns out, if it happens to be pouring rain. That’s how it went at the so-called “World’s Greatest Catwalk” that closed out Copenhagen fashion week on Saturday. Organizers laid down literally a mile of pink carpet in the city center, and Helena Christensen issued the sendoff to the more than 200 catwalkers, from infants (cradled in mom’s arms) to Denmark’s leading elderly model, all of whom hoofed it through town in looks put together by local merchants.
Rain, as it turned out, was one of the week’s overriding themes. A storm raged during Stine Goya’s show, where models glided through rooms decorated with Victorian-style installations of antique furniture and massive floral arrangements. At Wood Wood (above), the designers actually hosed down their models before sending them into the spotlight at the Den Frie contemporary art museum; with army jackets, shirtdresses, and khakis clinging to their bodies underneath backpacks, they looked like kids caught in a thunderstorm on the way home from school. On the other hand, mother nature luckily held the rain from Henrik Vibskov’s outdoor show at a park known locally as a hook-up spot (despite the swim goggles Vibskov accessorized his looks with, and the two enormous wood boats that burly men pushed into the center of the catwalk for the finale).
But rain or no rain, Copenhagen is about fun more than overly serious, capital-F fashion. Although one of the country’s most established names in womenswear, Margit Bradt (below), showed a strong collection playing on a safari theme (one picked up by several other designers as well), Soulland designer Silas Adler freely admitted that much of the best Danish style is “too basic to put on a catwalk” in Milan or Paris. (Though Adler, whose label grew out of a modest T-shirt project he started with skater friends, did throw some suits into the mix for the first time, below.) The real action in Denmark is at street-level, without the pomp and circumstance that can attend other European fashion weeks. Take Soulland’s after-party, which went down, sans formal invites, at a dive bar called Andy’s—one that the owner had to be roused from a stupor to open that night. Continue Reading “The Weather (And Fashion) Report From Copenhagen” »
Tonight at around 11 p.m.—so they say, but my money’s on midnight or later—a handful of Denmark’s best designers present a runway show of a few looks from their Fall collections for the revelers celebrating VMan‘s Scandinavian issue at Good Units. VMan‘s Stephen Gan sees big things in Scandinavia’s fashion future, I’m told, and has called in a few friends to make his case. But if late-night conditions aren’t favorable for a clear-eyed assessment (or for any editor with a husband, kid, or early bedtime), the group all gathered yesterday for a preview event and to meet the press.
Some names are familiar to U.S. buyers: Cheap Monday; Camilla Stærk, who shows at New York fashion week; and Henrik Vibskov, who shows men’s in Paris and a co-ed, and-the-kitchen-sink extravaganza in Copenhagen (last season’s included donkeys). But a few lesser-known Danish brands deserve their due. Day Birger et Mikkelsen, the lower-priced daywear line originally founded by Malene Birger, was covetable, especially at its reasonable prices. The men’s brand Soulland, whose hybrid cap/hat topper should replace the porkpie on every scruffy dude east of Avenue A, had great high-low pieces—I couldn’t take my hands off a varsity jacket with mink sleeves, even if it’s probably a little precious to wear anywhere near a game. And the flame-haired Stine Goya, an alum of Central Saint Martins, showed separates with a strong tailored streak. Her twining, cabled Snake sweater (pictured) is a best seller, she told me, and should look just as good with her wool or linen-silk wide-leg trousers as with your oldest weather-beaten jeans.