4 posts tagged "Herb Ritts"
The Pirelli Calendar turns 50 in 2014. To celebrate, the tire company execs have decided not to create a new edition. Rather, they’re releasing a previously unpublished version, originally slated for 1986, shot in Tuscany and Monte Carlo by none other than the prolific Helmut Newton.
First, some backstory: The calendar has become a mainstay marketing tool for a company that would otherwise have no real link to the überglam sphere of fashion photography (think: Herb Ritts’ 1991 edit, photographed in the Bahamas with the likes of Cindy Crawford and Kate Moss, or Norman Parkinson’s 1985 datebook with Iman in Edinburgh).
It’s with some irony, then, that Newton’s commission was the first to feature direct Pirelli product placement. Prior to 1986, the only connection to the company’s goods was vague (tire tracks seen in Uwe Ommer’s 1984 calendar, for example). When tasked to feature Pirelli’s wheels front and center, Newton eagerly embraced the challenge. The images are chock-full of horsepower.
Pirelli didn’t stop there. The brand commissioned former Pirelli sharpshooters Peter Lindbergh and Patrick Demarchelier to snap a “celebratory” lineup of such models as Karolina Kurkova and Alek Wek, and organized a retrospective, which will be held in the company’s HangarBicocca venue in Milan. The latter will showcase the work of the thirty-plus photographers who have contributed to the calendar over the years.
Acne Studios has rarely met an out-of-the-box idea it hasn’t liked. So though for most labels, publishing its own limited-edition collection of rodeo-rider portraits from a mid-century physique photographer wouldn’t be the first order of business, here it is. And so last night, with its usual clutch of models in tow—Hanne Gaby Odiele, Jacquelyn Jablonski, Ji Hye Park, et al.—Acne launched Rodeo, a hardbound book of photos from the collection of New Yorker critic Vince Aletti. Must be something in the air lately. As Hedi Slimane’s latest editorial suggested: Cowboys—they’re a thing.
Bruce of Los Angeles, little-known except among physique-photo aficionados, has nevertheless been influential among later photographers. Aletti traced elements of his style in the work of Mapplethorpe, Herb Ritts, and Bruce Weber. (The similarities were in some cases so striking, you could probably have bylined the book Bruce of Los Weber.) “It’s clear that he’s looked at it and had some appreciation of this period of work,” Aletti said between tête-à-têtes with Fran Lebowitz last night. “And I’d imagine he knows [of] some other photographer named Bruce.”
Unlike much of the photographer’s oeuvre, these rodeo shots are naturalistic, of real guys (rather than models) in their own clothes (rather than nude). Of course, exceptions apply. In any case, Acne took the opportunity to create a little capsule collection of clothes around them, too, for those who prefer to wear, rather than page through, their vintage beefcake. There are T-shirts, glammy cowboy boots stitched with appliqués of cowboys, and the traffic-stopping shirt modeled last night by the label’s Louise du Toit, available at Acne shops now.
Has the new Beyoncé/Jay-Z collaboration finally dropped? The rumor mill (and, naturally, the British tabloid press) is buzzing that Beyoncé may have gone into labor, and may have given birth to a daughter whose name may be Tiana-May Carter. No official word yet from mom and pop. [Observer]
Nowness takes a look back through the career of legendary fashion photog Herb Ritts, unearthing a few choice unseen photos and reminiscences from his famous collaborators, including Cindy Crawford (left), Naomi Campbell, and Richard Gere. “All of us experienced pain with Herb, but the pain was worth it,” Campbell said. “You want one of those photographs in your lifetime of modeling.” [Nowness]
Speaking of fashion photographers, the world may have just gotten a new one: Critically lauded contemporary lensman Jack Pierson, who has just shot the new Bottega Veneta Spring campaign with Karmen Pedaru. [WWD]
And speaking of campaigns, here are all the latest from Spring. [Fashionologie]
A picture may be worth a thousand words—but with a photographer as beloved as the late Herb Ritts, perhaps it was only a matter of time before someone added a written account, too. Now Charles Churchward, who first met Ritts during his tenure as Vanity Fair‘s executive design director, has stepped up to the plate with Herb Ritts: The Golden Hour, a richly illustrated biography. “We were seated next to each other at a dinner during the Milan collections back in 1980, and we just started talking,” Churchward said at the book’s L.A. release party. “A few years later, we began doing photo shoots together, and later we became neighbors when we both took second homes in Santa Fe.”
Churchward was surrounded by Ritts’ iconic images of Alek Wek, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington Burns (in Versace in 1990, above) and Richard Gere (who penned the book’s foreword), all of which will stay on view at the Fahey/Klein Gallery in L.A. through December 4. “Readers want to know about the person behind the camera for great photographs,” Churchward explained. “A lot of the images illustrate stories from the 100 people I interviewed to make this biography. He was always shooting his friends and subjects for himself, so there’s a rich archive. He was a West Coast Warhol for documenting the times.”