60 posts tagged "Hermes"
The menswear shows wrapped in Paris last weekend, and while Couture is already well under way, we’d like to briefly revisit the boys’ runways to highlight a noteworthy new trend: the gentleman’s jumpsuit. The unexpected, utilitarian outfits popped up left and right in Paris, providing a sharp contrast to the season’s explosive floral prints. At Hermès, Véronique Nichanian (who is celebrating her twenty-fifth year at the house) offered a collared steel-gray onesie—complete with a matching skinny belt and cargo pockets on the chest. A.P.C.‘s Jean Touitou also submitted a slate-dyed jumpsuit, though his option looked tougher—a more macho spin on the silhouette.
At his eponymous label, Raf Simons afforded his spin on the look: a male romper. In hues of plum, malachite, and black, the wares—some of which were complemented by barbershop-stripe belts—were quintessentially the designer’s own, and artfully challenging.
And finally, Olivier Rousteing turned out multiple hard-edged takes on the jumpsuit—in denim, leather, and jersey—for his naval-inspired Balmain collection. The style might take some getting used to, but some of these one-pieces have the potential to be pretty darn masculine (“Greased Lightning,” anyone?). And, given the industry clout of the above, the term “suiting” might have a whole new meaning by the time Spring rolls around.
Paris’ Grand Palais may be synonymous with Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel spectacles, but—little-known fact—one of the venue’s original purposes was to showcase the equestrian arts. This past weekend, Hermès and some four-legged friends gave the Kaiser a run for his money by doing just that. The storied house hosted its fourth annual Saut Hermès—a top-level, gasp-inducing show-jumping competition with about $600,000 in prize money up for grabs.
Hermès used the occasion to officially launch its Cavale saddle—an advanced design crafted collaboratively between artisan, rider, and veterinarian. Hermès, which was once as well known for its horse gear as its Birkins and Kellys, aims to regain its footing as the premiere source for professional show-jumping equipment. “It is my dream for Hermès to become top of mind to riders worldwide,” said Marion Bardet, director of the label’s equestrian program. It would seem that the brand is well on its way. In addition to saddles, Hermès also offers an equestrian apparel line. Tasked with designing the uniforms for France’s show-jumping team at the London 2012 Olympics, the house seeks to combine practical elements with its famed artistry. “Their clothes are obviously beautiful, but technical as well,” said Nick Dello Joio, one of a select few brand-sponsored riders. “I use everything Hermès.”
After covering 400-something collections over the past month and a half, we’re finally settling back into our office chairs and putting together the season’s big themes. Reflecting on our favorite moments from the Fall shows, there’s a consensus here at Style.com that the season’s sparest, simplest looks were the strongest. Derek Lam, Chloé’s Clare Waight Keller, and Christophe Lemaire at Hermès were among those who rose above the notion of trends to turn out classic suits, clean blouses, and crisp trousers. Their clothes had the direct, no-fuss appeal of uniforms.
Perhaps designers’ pared-down proposals were a playful jab at flashy street-style scenesters. Are those girls starting to resemble characters out of a comic book, or what? Maybe, just maybe a few of the oft-photographed types outside of Lincoln Center and in the Tuileries will take a back-to-basics approach next time around. A girl can dream, right?
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‘Tis the season for post-holiday discounts. But while you’re shopping the sales in Midtown, or returning that sweater from Aunt Sally that didn’t quite tickle your fancy, we suggest taking a peek at Barneys’ new vintage boutique. Launched in November, the well-kept secret stocks hard-to-find items like vintage Birkin, Kelly, and Chanel bags and eighties and ninties gold jewelry from YSL (a giant Egyptian-style gold necklace was our pick), Chanel (like kitschy gold bag-shaped earrings, belts, and bracelets) and Givenchy (a pair of gold disk clip-ons was particularly appealing). Tucked away in a quiet corner on the Madison Avenue flagship’s main floor, Barneys’ treasure-trove of vintage wares is basically a nineties Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele shoot come to life (left). And there’s a healthy price range, too, starting around $250 for earrings and skyrocketing above $20k for a gently (or in some cases, never) used Hermès bag.
Barneys’ Vintage Boutique is located in their New York flagship at 660 Madison Avenue, NYC. (212) 826-8900