15 posts tagged "Holly Fulton"
It’s surely a coincidence—right?—that the first day the London Showrooms and its clutch of young designers hit New York, so did a blast of rainy, London weather.
It didn’t stop the mass of editors who came for the Showrooms’ press viewing at the Soho Grand yesterday, where Mary Katrantzou, Holly Fulton, Michael van der Ham, J.W. Anderson, and more of the city’s up-and-comers (and their collections) were holding court. No surprise to find a crush at the penthouse suite. Interest in British fashion feels greater than at any time in recent memory. “I feel like London’s been an emerging talent itself for such a long time and I think it finally felt like it emerged,” said the day’s hostess, Sarah Mower, the British Fashion Council’s ambassador for emerging talent. “There’s been a real coming together, a critical mass of talented people who have been working away quietly and methodically for such a long time. Suddenly we had really strong collections from Meadham Kirchhoff [above], Mary Katrantzou, Christopher Kane, Erdem; they look mature now—they’re proper small businesses who people are really taking notice of…there’s a buzz with substance behind it in town.”
Katrantzou agreed. “I got a feeling that with some people, something clicked, and it was very real,” she said of the response to her Fall show (left). “They came to the showroom and you felt that it was very positive—I was amazed to feel that response.” Her koi-pond print pieces and fleurette-dotted dresses remain showpieces, but Katrantzou also expanded into knitwear this season, an especial boon for retailers. “It brings a completely different story for people to buy into,” she explained.
Men’s designer Tim Soar was also celebrating a season of firsts: his first full womenswear collection, with menswear-inspired pieces, like a raw-edged tuxedo jacket and a blocked, backless dress that had begun life as men’s suiting separates. In its first season, the line has already been picked up by some of London’s best stores. Looking at his covetable leathers, like a long, black leather skirt and a fur-collared varsity jacket, it wasn’t hard to imagine why.
Holly Fulton’s Coco Chanel-in-Scotland-inspired collection was also on display, with bright red lip prints not only appearing on silk maxi dresses and printed pants, but also on oversized enamel earrings. Fulton is working on a new project, she whispered, one that transcends the fashion sphere—her graphic prints being especially adaptable to such things—but wouldn’t say more for the moment.
Jonathan Anderson of J.W. Anderson—another menswear designer who recently added women’s to his repertoire—was exciting special attention as well. (Mower singled him out as especially promising among the new guard.) His paisley-print tops (left) and angora knits—long dresses for women, cropped sweaters for men—were exciting in a kind of loony, late-sixties way. His collection looks modern, but as Mower pointed out, Anderson, like many of his compatriots, is using older techniques and long-established craftsmen; his outerwear, for example, is made by the same factory that makes jackets for the English gunmakers Purdey and Sons. Meadham Kirchhoff, showing in a room across the penthouse, sources English-made Linton tweed (the same tweed, incidentally, Coco Chanel herself used to use). “One thing I’m really excited to see is that all this great production is being done in the U.K. It’s really precious to all of this generation that things are made by craftspeople near home,” Mower said. “Without being tub-thumping about sustainability and the rest of it—that’s [just] what’s close to them.”
In a new series, Style.com drops in on a few of London’s hottest young talents to find out what’s in store. Next up: Holly Fulton, who presents her collection tomorrow.
Holly Fulton found her inspiration for Fall 2011 while fishing in Scotland. Not the most glamorous of trips—until you hear that it’s the same place a certain Mademoiselle Chanel also frequented with her lover, the Duke of Westminster. (It’s where she developed her love of tweed.) Reading Justine Picardie’s recent biography of Coco, Fulton was intrigued by the effect these breaks from Paris had on Chanel. “It was said she was a different woman when she was there,” the designer explains. “Really relaxed. That’s what set it off in my head.”
In Fulton’s head, of course, Chanel was a little wilder. She conceived an image of “Coco relaxing in Scotland among friends…maybe having taken some magic mushrooms and tripping out a little bit in the Highlands!” It might take a strong dose to come up with all the references Fulton makes in the new collection, from Marie Antoinette and Scarlett O’Hara to illustrator Heinz Edelmann’s work on the Beatles’ animated Yellow Submarine—”That’s become a major section of new-tech prints, quite psychedelic and full-on,” she notes—and the Pop artist Tom Wesselmann, whose smoking lips feature in another set of prints as well as in Perspex jewelry. (Red lipstick is a Fulton trademark; hers is Chanel’s Audace.) Continue Reading “LFW Preview: Holly Fulton” »
London is famously supportive of its young designers, and today, the British Fashion Council announced the 18 who will be the beneficiaries of the NewGen sponsorship at London fashion week in February.
Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Mary Katrantzou, David Koma, and Michael van der Ham will all be presenting shows on the catwalk, supported by NewGen. Christopher Raeburn, Craig Lawrence, J. JS Lee, and milliner Nasir Mazhar will hold presentations; jewelers Dominic Jones and Jordan Askill will stage installations; and menswear designer J.W. Anderson will screen a film. There’ll also be a larger exhibition featuring the work of all of the designers above, plus Dorchester Prize finalists Chau Har Lee and Thomas Tait, Fannie Schiavoni, Felicity Brown, Yang Du, and Finnish designer Heikki Salonen.
Check out the links above to see runway shows, reviews, blogs, and all of Style.com’s past coverage on the winning designers.
Pictured above, left to right: Spring 2011 looks from Holly Fulton, Mary Katrantzou, and Michael Van Der Ham.
Many of London fashion’s young guns are in town this week for a few days of press appointments and sales at the behest of the London Showroom. It was a bit of a mad affair, with 20-odd designers and their Spring collections piled into a penthouse at the Soho Grand, but the mood fit the frenetic, often quite lovely collections.
It was hard not to love the eye-popping prints Holly Fulton screens on silk dresses and jersey shifts, then punches up with heaping handfuls of Swarovski crystals. There was a Lichtenstein-ish cloud print that would’ve suited a particularly chic cartoon character, and a spiky horsehair clutch to go along with. Prints were the word, too, at Mary Katrantzou’s interiors-inspired collection, which hits Barneys exclusively in the U.S. this season. She, too, got the Swarovski blessing (and a dip into the company coffers), which she used to create crystal-bedecked lampshade skirts and a great little multicolored cuff.
There were notes of soft color and texture for girls from Michael van der Ham and for blokes from Christopher Shannon. But it wasn’t all sweetness and light. There was a punk buzz emanating from a few strong collections, like Meadham Kirchhoff, Sibling, and Dominic Jones. Jones, a jeweler, softened punky studs into architectural, Deco shapes for his Spring ’11 collection—and shot it on Alice Dellal, something of a softened punky herself (left). And the knitwear trio of Sibling—who, incidentally, have a Topshop line, Sister by Sibling, in the offing—banged on to that beat, too. One intarsia’ed sweater depicted the Statue of Liberty sporting a mohawk; another piece, a collaboration with the English artists Tim Noble and Sue Webster, famous for their neon-light word pieces, blared “GIRLFRIEND FROM HELL” and “PUNY UNDERNOURISHED KID” in embroidery on a cotton sweatsuit. Their best gave Robert Indiana’s famous LOVE painting a dressing down (right). As the Beatles once said (or didn’t they?), “All You Need Is Punk.”