13 posts tagged "Hood by Air"
Back in November, we broke the news of LVMH’s new 300,000-euro LVMH Prize for Young Designers. According to WWD, 1,211 talents applied, and today the short list of thirty semifinalists, who will go on to present their collections to an esteemed panel of experts during Paris fashion week, were announced. CG by Chris Gelinas, Tim Coppens, Suno by Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis, Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air, and Creatures of the Wind by Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters are among the New York-based brands that made the cut. Notable international names include London’s Craig Green, Simone Rocha, Thomas Tait, Meadham Kirchhoff (designed by Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff), and Marques’Almeida (designed by Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida); Paris’ Jacquemus (by Simon Porte Jacquemus) and Atto (by Julien Dossena); Rome’s Stella Jean; and more.
Following the Paris presentations, judges will select ten hopefuls from the group of thirty, and these finalists will continue on to compete for the big prize. The decision, which will be made by a group including Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, Humberto Leon, Carol Lim, Phoebe Philo, Raf Simons, and Riccardo Tisci, will be announced in May.
Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, the designers of Public School, proved that they’re worthy recipients of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s top prize. They showed womenswear alongside their menswear for the first time at Milk Studios yesterday, but what I like about them is that they’re not trying to run before they can walk. Here, for both boys and girls, they stuck to their multilayered, street-meets-high fashion guns. They also had a great casting, completely un-self-conscious in its diversity. Why can’t more designers figure that out?
HOOD BY AIR
Speaking of casting, Kevin Amato, who fills the Hood by Air runway with a spectacular group of mostly nonprofessional models of every color and gender, is at the top of his game. The show was ten or so looks too long and the catwalk inside Chelsea Piers about a mile too long, but nothing could detract from the impression that this is the most exciting label in New York right now. (For more on that, see Maya Singer’s profile in the last issue of Style.com/Print.) Designer Shayne Oliver continued to find ways to breathe new life into logo sweatshirts—a neater trick than it sounds—and pushed his aesthetic forward in dynamic, multizippered outfits in leather, suede, and velvet. The finale of voguers hair-whipped the crowd into delirium. You can enjoy the energy of that, but don’t overlook how much thought and hard work Oliver is putting into honing his vision.
From Hood to haute. Five blocks away at the Paul Kasmin Gallery, the charming designer Manolo Blahnik was showing off his charming shoes against the backdrop of four charming films directed by his friend Michael Roberts. Blahnik, indomitable despite the fact that he was nursing a sinus infection and a sprained neck, held up a shoe and offered it for inspection to Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, the stylist. It had a curtain of tasseled fringe across the instep. “Ca je deteste,” said De Dudzeele, not so much dismissing Blahnik’s work as the entire notion of tasseled fringe. Blahnik was visibly tickled by his friend’s honesty. “You need people like that,” he said. “Who tell you.” Besides, De Dudzeele’s restless eye had already fastened onto another shoe. This one she j’adored.
DINNER AT INDOCHINE
I ran home after Diane von Furstenberg’s show, a celebration of the remarkable forty-year run of her wrap dress. I caught up with some editing, and then Susan and I headed out to a dinner celebrating the appointment of Kyle Hagler as president of the New York division of Next Model Management (or, as we like to think of him, Kyle “The Cover” Hagler—the guy’s relentless in trying to place his clients on the cover of your magazine). During seventeen years at IMG, Hagler was instrumental in building the careers of Liya Kebede and Joan Smalls, among others, and has done as much as any model agent to champion diversity (though I suspect he sees it less as breaking barriers than simply erasing them). Now he gets to run the show.
On the way out, we ran into our buddy Waris Ahluwalia. “Sorry,” I said. “I think I missed your event.” He’d had a tasting for his line of teas at The Standard earlier that afternoon. “That’s OK,” Waris shot back. “It was really only meant to be for friends and family anyway.”
READ THIS REVIEW NOW
Yesterday, Tim Blanks produced and hosted three videos for us, went to a designer’s studio to report a story for the next issue of our magazine, and knocked off a couple of reviews, including this marvel of lucidity that arrived in my inbox at 2:09 a.m. That amounts to a light day for Tim.
New York-based Hood by Air has, over the past few years, experienced a meteoric rise. Designer Shayne Oliver helped to elevate the super-luxury sportswear movement, and his printed T-shirts and oversize bombers are now favorites of trendsetters like Kanye West and A$AP Rocky. The brand is already carried by a bevy of international retailers, including Barneys New York, Opening Ceremony, VFiles, and Browns. Yet, despite all its success (not to mention its hoards of tech-savvy millennial fans), HBA does not have its own Web site. On Monday, however, the launch of hoodbyair.com will change all that. “People have had time to be introduced to the brand and interact with it in their own way,” offered Oliver by phone from Paris, where he is showing his Pre-Fall collection on Saturday. It’s the first time he’s presenting in the city. “There are so many portals through which you can access HBA, and it needs to have a real home now, where we can have its high and low aspects exist in the same place. This will help us spread our message. As a young label, you have to have that in order to survive.”
Upon its launch, the Web store will only sell site-exclusive T-shirts. “This is a very fresh experience. I want to grow into it, and I want it to be organic,” said Oliver. The preliminary site features a black-and-white interface and rotating models that give a 360-degree view of each garment. GIFS, social media elements, and more are on the way. “Before we take it to the next level, to a world with more video and more color, we want to master it,” explained Oliver. “We started with black and white because the site is still a baby—we’re starting with a blank space.”
The Web site ties in with HBA’s upcoming Paris Pre-Fall presentation, during which Oliver says he’ll unveil items that will only be available on the site. Also set to debut on Saturday? The label’s first foray into denim, as well as the first installment of an ongoing footwear collaboration with Italian brand Forfex (we’ll see part two during HBA’s NYFW presentation next month). “We’re so inspired by being American, and loving that we’re American, so we were like, let’s just do something really American in Paris and show a lot of jeans,” said Oliver of the new denim venture. When asked if he’d consider doing a full-on show in the City of Light, the designer paused. “Yeah. The response here has been really cool, and I was worried because the last thing I wanted to do was to come here and feel like I’m being vulgar toward Paris’ culture or structure. I’m not in any way trying to bow down to anyone, but I have to think about the opportunities that come with the acceptance of the brand. We’re super-excited.”
There’s another rapper falling into fashion’s favor. Today, WWD reports, Alexander Wang has teamed up with Dr. Dre to turn out a pair of limited-edition black and gold Beats by Dr. Dre headphones. It’s been a rap-filled year for fashion, what with Kanye West’s A.P.C. collab, A$AP Rocky’s cameo on the Hood by Air runway, and Jay Z’s Picasso Baby shoot, but for Wang, it would seem, it’s all about the D.R.E.