42 posts tagged "Humberto Leon"
Kenzo creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have once again teamed up with artist Jean-Paul Goude (yes, the same Jean-Paul Goude who created that iconic eighties image of Grace Jones) for their Spring ’13 campaign. And the result is modern-day Jungle Jap at its finest. Wearing the season’s Technicolor animal prints, Models Ming Xi and Jester are flipped upside down, their legs creating geometric X shapes against the Kenzo logo. Take a peek at Kenzo’s punchy Spring ads (above) and watch Mr. Goude in action in the debut of Kenzo’s behind-the-scenes film (below).
The Fall ’13 menswear collections continue this week at Florence’s Pitti Uomo/em>
WHEN: Thursday, January 10
WHERE: Florence, Italy
WHAT (TO EXPECT): “Our men’s collection for Fall 2013 is an exploration of the skies, inflected by ancient mythologies of the mystical world above.” —Creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. They’ve sent in the preview sketch above.
Opening Ceremony is famous for its wide-ranging collaborations—so famous that we rounded up our favorite 25 for its tenth anniversary not long ago—but its latest co-conspirator is a doozy: the one and only Yoko Ono. As a wedding present for John Lennon in 1969, Ono sketched out a collection she called “Fashions for Men”: an imagined range of cutout tops, lion-tailed trousers, incense-spouting boots, and bits of inspired oddity she created, she says, to spotlight Lennon’s “very sexy bod.” (A particularly randy vision of Ono emerges from these sketches and her writings about them—note the hand over crotch in the suit she envisioned, above.) Now, some 43 years later, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are putting them into production, along with Ono’s sketches in book form.
“I knew that my present to John was a conceptual one,” Ono told Style.com on the occasion of the big reveal. “Never thought it would be realized. But now it is, and it’s great!” The world may have changed since the late sixties, but, Ono says, “Men’s fashion has not changed that much. That’s why I wanted to say with my designs, ‘Hey, loosen up, guys!’ I think they will have a lot of fun wearing these clothes I visualized in 1969.” The collection arrives in Opening Ceremony’s New York and L.A. stores next week, followed by its London outpost on the 30th and Tokyo December 9. The full collection of 52 pieces (a lucky number, per Ono) ranges from $75 for a tank to $750 for the incense boot pictured below; posters with her drawings begin at $25.
The economic news from Italy, Pitti Immagine’s ambassadors admitted at a diplomatic lunch mission today, is not good. But they contend they have every reason to be sanguine. The biannual Pitti trade fairs—menswear Pitti Uomo, womenswear Pitti W, children’s Pitti Bimbi, and the textile fair Pitti Filati—draw a more international crowd season after season; for the 83rd fair, to be held January 8-11 of next year, a full 40 percent of the vendors are international.
The big news so far has been the invited guests: Kenzo, which will present the Fall ’13 menswear collection, and Maison Kitsuné, which will stage its first ever show for women’s pre-collection. At lunch, Kenzo designer Humberto Leon and Carol Lim (left) professed their gratitude for the Pitti invitation, even if accepting it means their hectic international schedules, overseeing Kenzo and Opening Ceremony, became that much more hectic. (Leon estimated that he is now on a plane once every five days, with key stops in Florence, Tokyo, Paris, and L.A.) But in their way, Leon and Lim are shaking up the Pitti orthodoxies: They are, Pitti CEO Raffaello Napoleone said with a gasp, showing during the afternoon instead of the usual evening spot.
Kenzo and Kitsuné both hit a sweet spot a hair below the usual designer price point, which is likely no coincidence. “Smart casual is doing well,” Pitti Chairman Gaetano Marzotto announced in his opening remarks, calling out a bright spot in the market. (And adding, to a mostly tie-less crowd, “Like you are dressed now—you in particular.”) But the main-stage designers won’t be the only ones showing at Pitti. Among the other debuts will be Adidas SLVR, G-Star (which will show its latest collection created in collaboration with industrial designer Marc Newson), the returning Pitti veteran Andrea Pompilio, and the adored Japanese line White Mountaineering.
Last season’s Pitti Uomo guest, Carven, brought with it a strong Gallic flavor to the Italian menswear fair, in the form of an old French tradition: the waiters’ race. Evidently the mood is lingering. The fair has tapped two French brands, Kenzo (designed by the American duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim) and Maison Kitsuné (by the Frenchman Gildas Loaëc and his Japanese partner, Masaya Kuroki, above) to present their collection at the fair’s 83rd iteration in January. Kenzo will show menswear, Maison Kitsuné womenswear. The fair runs from January 8 to 11, 2013.