23 posts tagged "Hussein Chalayan"
When we set out to tell the story of 2011 by the numbers, one loomed especially large: 661,509, the record-breaking number of visitors who lined up, often for hours at a time, to see the Costume Institute’s Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (left) at the Met.
But it wasn’t just a banner year for the Met and the late, great McQueen; designers and museums forged a strong bond this year, one that looks likely to continue well into the next. Museums across the globe invited designers into their halls and the results have made for some of the best exhibitions in memory.
During Couture week, Hussein Chalayan opened a retrospective at Paris’ Musée des Arts Decoratifs, where next year, Marc Jacobs and his work for Louis Vuitton will take up residence. The City of Light also played host to Ralph Lauren and his collection of automobiles (it also now boasts an enormous new RL store and restaurant, one of the town’s new favorite spots for burgers). And Florence is the new home of the Museo Gucci, opened during Milan’s Spring 2012 week with all due fanfare, and a Blondie performance to boot.
In America, socials flocked to San Francisco for the opening of Balenciaga and Spain (which also traveled to New York) and to Dallas for The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier, which debuted earlier this year at Montreal’s Museum of Fine Arts. Just this month, Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte opened RODARTE: Fra Angelico, a show of the dresses their created for their June presentation at Pitti, at L.A.’s LACMA.
Farther afield, Dior went to Russia, where house jewelry designer Camille Micelli sent us this postcard, for Inspiration Dior, attended, naturally, by a lavish party. And the Netherlands continues to be a slightly off-the-radar destination for fashion’s cultural tourists. A retrospective of the work of Azzedine Alaïa is now on view in Gronningen, outside Amsterdam, and the capital’s contemporary-photo museum, FOAM, which hosted the likes of Jefferson Hack for a panel on What’s Next, which followed a retrospective of work by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin—one which eventually became the germ of their new career-spanning anthology, Pretty Much Everything.
Here in New York, the more traditional homes of fashion, like FIT’s Fashion Museum, were busy, too. The museum recently opened the first part of The Great Designers, including Armani, Dior, Givenchy, and McQueen, and plans to open part two in March. Chief curator and museum director Valerie Steele also worked with clotheshorse and collector Daphne Guinness on an exhibition of her own holdings—which, it turns out, Guinness keeps organized via computer database.
Next year, all eyes will be on Miuccia Prada for the next Costume Institute exhibition, Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada on Fashion. But before then, there’s a Louboutin retrospective in London to look forward to, on the heels of the shoemaker’s victory-lap 20th anniversary year. And WWD reports today that several fashion labels are taking a renewed interest in their own histories, too. Balmain is ramping up its archival holdings, and Chloé recently brought on an in-house archivist, in anticipation of a retrospective planned for its 60th anniversary next year.
This month, London’s Central Saint Martins school—one of the globe’s best fashion training grounds—leaves its long-held Charing Cross Road building and moves to a new complex on Kings Cross. Style.com reporter Katharine Zarrella spoke with some of the school’s most distinguished alumni about their memories of the Soho space, running throughout the week. Today, Hussein Chalayan shares his Saint Martins experience.
Hussein Chalayan: BA Fashion, 1993
“My favorite memory is Dave’s Bar, where everyone emotionally and physically were at their most visible. In hindsight, the biggest fun was probably how hard we were all whipped by my artist friend Robert Clark’s wit, who worked behind the bar at Dave’s. He’s still a friend now… But the most important aspect of Saint Martins for me was really about the differences in the variety of the students given a place on the course. The differences in students created a really diverse environment and fellow students’ comments about each other’s work sometimes mattered more than some of the tutors’. The other big point for me was that Saint Martins was really an art school where fashion happened to be a department in it. I had a lot of interaction with people from the fine art and sculpture departments, which really affected my outlook.”
Pictured above:Chalayan as a student at CSM; A look from Chalayan’s Central Saint Martins graduate collection.
Donatella Versace wants to know—along with the rest of the world—will Riccardo Tisci (left) do Dior? She asks the Givenchy designer the burning question in conversation for the new Interview. Alas, Tisci doesn’t give her the scoop, but he does open up about his current music obsession, Nicki Minaj, as well as old favorites like Missy Elliott, Ciara, and Lil’ Kim. [Interview]
Book your reservations now: Luxury giant LVMH is opening its kitchens to the public in October on a first-come, first-served basis. If you have ever wondered how your favorite Dior perfume or Glenmorangie single-malt whiskey is made, now is your chance to take a tour of the European distilleries, vineyards, and couture houses of LVMH. [WWD]
16-year-old Molly Smith is going to have to take a break from playing football and Grand Theft Auto for the time being because she’s the newly announced star of Burberry. The Derbyshire native, who started modeling two years ago after being discovered during a Covent Garden shopping trip, will be appearing in the brand’s upcoming Fall 2011 campaign, shot by Mario Testino. [Vogue U.K.]
There is a new sun rising at Cacharel. Dawei Sun and his Belle Ninon co-designer, Ling Liu, have been tapped as the new artistic directors for the French brand’s women’s, men’s, children’s, and accessories collections. [WWD]
From now on, it’s just Chalayan. In an effort to tighten up his brand identity, designer Hussein Chalayan has shortened his label’s name. His new name might be trimmed down, but he’s expanding, too. He is launching a lower-priced collection of signature pieces, called Grey Label, set to hit stores in September. [Hussein Chalayan]
The cerebral designer Hussein Chalayan is one of fashion’s deep thinkers, and his latest collection, Kaikoku—Japanese for “open society,” following up on Spring’s Sakoku, “closed society”—is no exception. So when the time came to present it, Chalayan not only showed the clothes and shot a lookbook, he went ahead and directed a short film to spotlight the collection (though it’s just about feature-length compared to the two-to-four-minute flicks other designers often create). Your full 19 minutes of spooky, smoky, Chalayanism—debuting here exclusively—starts now. Click above to check it out.