July 25 2014

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29 posts tagged "Hussein Chalayan"

On Your Marks: Carla Sozzani Sets The Pace For LFW


“I look forward to seeing Christopher Kane, Roksanda Ilincic, and Mary Katrantzou’s shows,” 10 Corso Como’s Carla Sozzani (pictured, left) told last night at the exhibit Landing on Earth, curated by her partner and 10 CC’s creative director Kris Ruhs (pictured, right). “They always surprise me—those minds!”

It was Queens-born, Milan-based Ruhs’ first London exhibition, held in Wapping’s former Hydraulic Power Station. And despite being located in the innermost bowels of East London, Hussein Chalayan, Roksanda Ilincic, Peter Pilotto, Jean-Pierre Braganza, Boombox’s Richard Mortimer, Paolo Roversi, and Princess Julia still managed to find the venue, hidden in a dark cobblestone alleyway close to where Jack the Ripper did his work and where his spooky vibe hangs thick in the air. With the station’s soaring vaulted ceilings, gigantic boilers, wood beams and brick walls, and creepy atmosphere, Sozzani was busy taking pictures all night: “Look at that, how fantastic,” she said, snapping away as giggling partygoers lay down on Ruhs’ rotating table, their faces reflected in the Raku ceramic tree chandelier hanging above. Sozzani also trained her lens on Ruhs’ maze, which resembled a car wash (created entirely out of rubber from old tires rescued from Morocco and splashed in red paint), as well as a 30-foot metal curtain fashioned into a lattice effect. When suggested she should blog about it, Sozzani laughed: “Do you think the world needs another blogger? I am so absorbed with 10 Corso Como anyway!”

10 CC’s shop, restaurant, bookstore, gallery, and hotel rooms mean the couple is busy enough (especially Sozzani, who just arrived from the New York shows), and explains why Ruhs had been down to the eleventh hour in creation mode. “I was up painting this last night,” he said, referring to the Moroccan mosaic-motif painting. “Yes, we are busy, but the sense of liberation when it’s all done is exhilarating.” Speaking of busy, we asked Hussein Chalayan what else he will attend during LFW: “Are you kidding? I am just here for Carla and Kris! I show my collection in Paris in a couple weeks so it’s all nonstop,” he said, as other guests slowly made their way over to event number two—the Dover Street Arts Club for Stevie Wonder’s surprise gig. “I will be exhausted if I attend everything—I have to pace myself,” he said. For fashion week-goers, wiser words never spoken.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

Fashion’s Nights (And Days) At The Museum


When we set out to tell the story of 2011 by the numbers, one loomed especially large: 661,509, the record-breaking number of visitors who lined up, often for hours at a time, to see the Costume Institute’s Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (left) at the Met.

But it wasn’t just a banner year for the Met and the late, great McQueen; designers and museums forged a strong bond this year, one that looks likely to continue well into the next. Museums across the globe invited designers into their halls and the results have made for some of the best exhibitions in memory.

During Couture week, Hussein Chalayan opened a retrospective at Paris’ Musée des Arts Decoratifs, where next year, Marc Jacobs and his work for Louis Vuitton will take up residence. The City of Light also played host to Ralph Lauren and his collection of automobiles (it also now boasts an enormous new RL store and restaurant, one of the town’s new favorite spots for burgers). And Florence is the new home of the Museo Gucci, opened during Milan’s Spring 2012 week with all due fanfare, and a Blondie performance to boot.

In America, socials flocked to San Francisco for the opening of Balenciaga and Spain (which also traveled to New York) and to Dallas for The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier, which debuted earlier this year at Montreal’s Museum of Fine Arts. Just this month, Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte opened RODARTE: Fra Angelico, a show of the dresses their created for their June presentation at Pitti, at L.A.’s LACMA.

Farther afield, Dior went to Russia, where house jewelry designer Camille Micelli sent us this postcard, for Inspiration Dior, attended, naturally, by a lavish party. And the Netherlands continues to be a slightly off-the-radar destination for fashion’s cultural tourists. A retrospective of the work of Azzedine Ala├»a is now on view in Gronningen, outside Amsterdam, and the capital’s contemporary-photo museum, FOAM, which hosted the likes of Jefferson Hack for a panel on What’s Next, which followed a retrospective of work by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin—one which eventually became the germ of their new career-spanning anthology, Pretty Much Everything.

Here in New York, the more traditional homes of fashion, like FIT’s Fashion Museum, were busy, too. The museum recently opened the first part of The Great Designers, including Armani, Dior, Givenchy, and McQueen, and plans to open part two in March. Chief curator and museum director Valerie Steele also worked with clotheshorse and collector Daphne Guinness on an exhibition of her own holdings—which, it turns out, Guinness keeps organized via computer database.

Next year, all eyes will be on Miuccia Prada for the next Costume Institute exhibition, Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada on Fashion. But before then, there’s a Louboutin retrospective in London to look forward to, on the heels of the shoemaker’s victory-lap 20th anniversary year. And WWD reports today that several fashion labels are taking a renewed interest in their own histories, too. Balmain is ramping up its archival holdings, and Chloé recently brought on an in-house archivist, in anticipation of a retrospective planned for its 60th anniversary next year.

Photo: Courtesy of the Costume Insitute

Goodbye To All That: Hussein Chalayan On His Memories of Central Saint Martins


This month, London’s Central Saint Martins school—one of the globe’s best fashion training grounds—leaves its long-held Charing Cross Road building and moves to a new complex on Kings Cross. reporter Katharine Zarrella spoke with some of the school’s most distinguished alumni about their memories of the Soho space, running throughout the week. Today, Hussein Chalayan shares his Saint Martins experience.

Hussein Chalayan: BA Fashion, 1993

“My favorite memory is Dave’s Bar, where everyone emotionally and physically were at their most visible. In hindsight, the biggest fun was probably how hard we were all whipped by my artist friend Robert Clark’s wit, who worked behind the bar at Dave’s. He’s still a friend now… But the most important aspect of Saint Martins for me was really about the differences in the variety of the students given a place on the course. The differences in students created a really diverse environment and fellow students’ comments about each other’s work sometimes mattered more than some of the tutors’. The other big point for me was that Saint Martins was really an art school where fashion happened to be a department in it. I had a lot of interaction with people from the fine art and sculpture departments, which really affected my outlook.”

Pictured above:Chalayan as a student at CSM; A look from Chalayan’s Central Saint Martins graduate collection.

Photos: Courtesy of CSM

Donatella On Riccardo, The New Faces
Of Cacharel, LVMH Opens Up, And More…


Donatella Versace wants to know—along with the rest of the world—will Riccardo Tisci (left) do Dior? She asks the Givenchy designer the burning question in conversation for the new Interview. Alas, Tisci doesn’t give her the scoop, but he does open up about his current music obsession, Nicki Minaj, as well as old favorites like Missy Elliott, Ciara, and Lil’ Kim. [Interview]

Book your reservations now: Luxury giant LVMH is opening its kitchens to the public in October on a first-come, first-served basis. If you have ever wondered how your favorite Dior perfume or Glenmorangie single-malt whiskey is made, now is your chance to take a tour of the European distilleries, vineyards, and couture houses of LVMH. [WWD]

16-year-old Molly Smith is going to have to take a break from playing football and Grand Theft Auto for the time being because she’s the newly announced star of Burberry. The Derbyshire native, who started modeling two years ago after being discovered during a Covent Garden shopping trip, will be appearing in the brand’s upcoming Fall 2011 campaign, shot by Mario Testino. [Vogue U.K.]

There is a new sun rising at Cacharel. Dawei Sun and his Belle Ninon co-designer, Ling Liu, have been tapped as the new artistic directors for the French brand’s women’s, men’s, children’s, and accessories collections. [WWD]

From now on, it’s just Chalayan. In an effort to tighten up his brand identity, designer Hussein Chalayan has shortened his label’s name. His new name might be trimmed down, but he’s expanding, too. He is launching a lower-priced collection of signature pieces, called Grey Label, set to hit stores in September. [Hussein Chalayan]

Photo: Billy Farrell /

Alex De Betak, After Hours


In our latest “After Hours” video, filmmaker Alexis Dahan hits the party circuit with the near-legendary show producer and scenographer Alex de Betak. You may be less than familiar with his name—you’ll definitely be familiar with his work.

De Betak is the go-to for the biggest labels, designers, and companies, and has been responsible for some of the biggest productions in recent fashion show history. His client list not only reads like a who’s-who, it’s also a how-long: De Betak has logged over a decade with Christian Dior (whose former designer, John Galliano, had an incurable taste for operatic productions) and Hussein Chalayan, and years with Victoria’s Secret and Rodarte (whose recent MOCA retrospective show he also designed). He’s also got the rare distinction of being the only man to create a larger-than-life crystal chandelier of Gisele.

Music for “After Hours” provided by Io Echo and The Drums.

Photo: Billy Farrell /