4 posts tagged "ICB"
Backstage at a fashion show? Been there, hundreds of times. But backstage at a digital fashion show? Never. On the Friday before Labor Day, Prabal Gurung and his ICB team gathered at a studio in Williamsburg to shoot the label’s second digital show, which goes live online tomorrow morning, and I was happy to sign up for the meta experience. If a show is virtual, does a backstage exist?
ICB was one of the original brands to sign onto KCD’s digital fashion show initiative last season—and its sophomore effort promises to be a more engaging experience than the first. Gurung hired Magnus Berger and Tenzin Wild as creative directors, and the Last Magazine co-founders (who joined a crew that included stylist Tiina Laakkonen, Gurung’s show producer Stacy Striegel, and at least 50 other fashion professionals, six of whom were wielding cameras), produced a set inspired by Richard Serra sculptures. Instead of walking down a straight runway with a plain white background, the models navigate through a maze. Part of the pleasure at a runway show is seeing the reactions of the people around you. Until KCD signs a partnership with Second Life, we’ll content ourselves with the Serra-esque walls.
Here, some photos from the “backstage.”
Fashion people love a controversy, but there’s one thing that reporters, market editors, and buyers can agree on: There are too many runway shows. This weekend in Paris, KCD’s Ed Filipowski announced a new initiative created to address the overcrowded fashion week schedules.
The company’s digital arm has teamed up with Tony King & Partners to launch www.digitalfashionshows, a new invitation-only platform that allows fashion professionals to watch pre-taped runway shows on their computers, iPads, and mobile phones. The new Web site will go live on February 15 at 11:30 a.m. with the debut of Prabal Gurung’s first collection for Onward Kashiyama’s ICB.
Your RSVP will get you not only the runway video, but also a short taped interview with Gurung in which he discusses the collection, as well as static pictures (front, back, and detail shots) that you can “favorite” and add notes to. There will also be beauty content, sponsored in part by MAC, in the form of interviews with the hair and makeup artists, and specifics about the products they used. An hour after the show, all of the materials will be downloadable, including the video, which will be embeddable. The content will also be archived on the site, viewable at any time during the season.
From the dawn of the Internet until now, Filipowski argued, “we’ve all been scrambling to reach beyond fashion, to target consumers. We haven’t asked, ‘how can we apply the new technology to what we as an industry need to do?’ That’s the goal of our digital division.” (The digital division was launched in December 2010.)
The cost for designers, said Filipowski, will fall between that of a traditional fashion show and a static presentation. “And it’s not for our clients alone, it’s not proprietary.”
Filipowski said he’s shown it to a handful of top editors to what he described as positive feedback. After attending nearly two full months of pre-fall shows and appointments, it looks like a positive development to this reporter. Still, we’ll always have fashion shows. “Some shows must be seen in person,” he agreed. “This is an option, not an alternative.”
After winning a large chunk of change from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, Prabal Gurung decided it only seemed natural to launch a pre-fall collection.
“You have to do all four seasons at this point,” he says of his first pre-fall collection, debuting exclusively here on Style.com in this video made during his lookbook shoot with photographer Dan Martensen, who has worked with the likes of i-D, The New York Times, and The Last Magazine. “It’s a huge opportunity to introduce new categories and more sportswear pieces—it’s an incredibly important season.”
Here, Gurung’s girls Alana Zimmer, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Kate King, and Ming Xi (all have walked in his shows) model his latest efforts. “With this collection, I developed a particular print that I had taken a picture of. I had this printmaker in London that I was working with and it looks like a kaleidoscope,” Gurung tells Style.com, in between meticulously pintucking Zimmer’s dress and picking out the perfect pair of Linda Farrow shades with his longtime stylist, Tiina Laakkonen, as Rihanna blasts from the stereo in the background. “We worked to develop the image more and more and more. I didn’t want it to have the same floral idea of my Spring collection—if you look, it’s pretty from afar, but up close, it’s a little hard.” The kaleidoscope print appears throughout the collection, on featherweight T-shirts (his first), Lurex and cashmere jacquard knits, and multiple silk wool or silk georgette pieces in rich green and jet black.
A pre-fall collection isn’t the only new addition to his growing list of accomplishments—Gurung has been hard at work with his new duties as chief designer for ICB, a label that hasn’t been sold in the States for nearly a decade. “The design integrity, aesthetic, and what I believe in will be the same,” he says of his vision for the new ICB collection. “Obviously I come from the American couture background, but there’s also a side of me that lives in the East Village, you know? It will reflect that a little bit more, but not in an obvious East Village way; this will have more grit.”
Prabal Gurung Takes The Reins At ICB, Designers At Midlife, Spring (Campaigns) Are In The Air, And More…-------
The Japanese label ICB, formerly designed by Michael Kors and then Victor & Rolf, stopped distribution in the West in 2002, but it will soon be back on these shores. Owning company Onward Kashiyama has announced that Prabal Gurung will helm the relaunch of the collection in U.S. and Europe, beginning here in Fall 2012. [WWD]
In 2011, designers of major labels, including Haider Ackermann, Christopher Bailey, and Nicolas Ghesquière, hit milestone “big O” birthdays (they all turned 40). In the NYT, Suzy Menkes points out that the battle of generations of designers of all ages, however, is a thing to celebrate. [NYT]
The Spring campaigns are upon us! Fashionologie rounds up the best of what’s out now, featuring star turns from Karlie Kloss, Alessandra Ambrosio, Miranda Kerr, and Julia Stegner. [Fashionologie]
Julia Restoin-Roitfeld designed her own collection of lingerie for Kiki de Montparnasse—and pregnancy or no pregnancy, she’s gonna model it, too. [Elle]