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August 29 2014

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34 posts tagged "Inez van Lamsweerde"

Fashion’s Nights (And Days) At The Museum

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When we set out to tell the story of 2011 by the numbers, one loomed especially large: 661,509, the record-breaking number of visitors who lined up, often for hours at a time, to see the Costume Institute’s Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (left) at the Met.

But it wasn’t just a banner year for the Met and the late, great McQueen; designers and museums forged a strong bond this year, one that looks likely to continue well into the next. Museums across the globe invited designers into their halls and the results have made for some of the best exhibitions in memory.

During Couture week, Hussein Chalayan opened a retrospective at Paris’ Musée des Arts Decoratifs, where next year, Marc Jacobs and his work for Louis Vuitton will take up residence. The City of Light also played host to Ralph Lauren and his collection of automobiles (it also now boasts an enormous new RL store and restaurant, one of the town’s new favorite spots for burgers). And Florence is the new home of the Museo Gucci, opened during Milan’s Spring 2012 week with all due fanfare, and a Blondie performance to boot.

In America, socials flocked to San Francisco for the opening of Balenciaga and Spain (which also traveled to New York) and to Dallas for The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier, which debuted earlier this year at Montreal’s Museum of Fine Arts. Just this month, Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte opened RODARTE: Fra Angelico, a show of the dresses their created for their June presentation at Pitti, at L.A.’s LACMA.

Farther afield, Dior went to Russia, where house jewelry designer Camille Micelli sent us this postcard, for Inspiration Dior, attended, naturally, by a lavish party. And the Netherlands continues to be a slightly off-the-radar destination for fashion’s cultural tourists. A retrospective of the work of Azzedine Alaïa is now on view in Gronningen, outside Amsterdam, and the capital’s contemporary-photo museum, FOAM, which hosted the likes of Jefferson Hack for a panel on What’s Next, which followed a retrospective of work by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin—one which eventually became the germ of their new career-spanning anthology, Pretty Much Everything.

Here in New York, the more traditional homes of fashion, like FIT’s Fashion Museum, were busy, too. The museum recently opened the first part of The Great Designers, including Armani, Dior, Givenchy, and McQueen, and plans to open part two in March. Chief curator and museum director Valerie Steele also worked with clotheshorse and collector Daphne Guinness on an exhibition of her own holdings—which, it turns out, Guinness keeps organized via computer database.

Next year, all eyes will be on Miuccia Prada for the next Costume Institute exhibition, Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada on Fashion. But before then, there’s a Louboutin retrospective in London to look forward to, on the heels of the shoemaker’s victory-lap 20th anniversary year. And WWD reports today that several fashion labels are taking a renewed interest in their own histories, too. Balmain is ramping up its archival holdings, and Chloé recently brought on an in-house archivist, in anticipation of a retrospective planned for its 60th anniversary next year.

Photo: Courtesy of the Costume Insitute

Mariacarla Boscono For YSL, Justin Bieber Fronts V‘s First-Ever Music Issue, Kate Middleton Rocks McQueen (Again), And More…

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Yves Saint Laurent switched things up for its Spring 2012 ad campaign, enlisting David Sims to shoot it instead of Inez and Vinoodh, who have shot the label’s ads for the past nine seasons. The campaign stars Mariacarla Boscono wearing two looks from the collection. [HuffPo]

Bill Cunningham will be receiving the Carnegie Hall Medal of Excellence in April at a gala benefit held at the Waldorf-Astoria. The award is for Cunningham’s “devotion to chronicling fashion for nearly 50 years, as well as his role in inspiring philanthropy.” [WWD]

They didn’t photograph the YSL campaign this season, but Inez and Vinoodh shot the cover of V Magazine‘s first music issue, starring Justin Bieber. The issue is due out January 12. [Page Six]

Kate Middleton stepped out in a black velvet Alexander McQueen dress for The Sun newspaper’s Military Awards Monday night. She accessorized the look with “a ruby and diamond necklace and bracelet given to her as a wedding present by a family friend.” [Telegraph]

The Image Makers: Inez And Vinoodh

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In a new series, Style.com sits down with the best in the field of contemporary fashion photography to talk about both the process and the product. First up: the husband-and-wife Dutch shooters Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.


At exactly 34 characters long, Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin easily have the longest photo credit in the business. Admittedly, the count includes A-N-D, but that little linking word is crucial. Van Lamsweerde and Matadin are partners in every sense—creatively, romantically, as parents of their 9-year-old son Charles Star Matadin, and seemingly everything in between. The Dutch natives have been together for 26 years, and to sit with the two of them for an interview is to witness genuine sentence-finishing synergy.

There’s yet more neat duality in their work, which straddles art and fashion, gives you high glamour with a touch of the surreal or grotesque, ranges from classical black-and-white portraiture to near camp, and inevitably includes some degree of gender-bending. It also extends to their hefty new monograph, called Pretty Much Everything ($700, www.taschen.com), which comes out this month and encompasses their work for magazines like Paris Vogue and V, campaigns for houses like Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga, and their art projects. In the two volumes, van Lamsweerde and Matadin scrapped chronology, and instead painstakingly went through the 666 photographs to create very specific pairings, each with their own visual logic. “It takes time away so it becomes one body of work,” explains Matadin. “You see a picture from 1985 next to one from 2011, and they’re still holding up.” Van Lamsweerde and Matadin talked to Style.com about their unique relationship, the wonders of Lady Gaga, and why you shouldn’t peer into the inner workings of a fashion shoot.

You have this book now but you had the retrospective exhibit last year in Amsterdam. Had you always planned to do that at 25 years?
Vinoodh Matadin: This actually started nine years ago when Inez was pregnant. Karl Lagerfeld said, “Oh, you’re pregnant. You should do a book.”
Inez van Lamsweerde: He said, “Oh, you have to have a project while you’re pregnant.” Which is very cute.

And very Karl.
IVL: Yeah, it was sweet. So we started working on it and kept shooting and kept adding pictures and the book grew and grew. When it was done, it was kind of 25 years of us together. And by now, it’s again a year later so it’s 26 years of work together. But the show was based on the book.
VM: Basically we started the book putting everything in order.
IVL: Chronological order.
VM: But then we thought, it’s too soon. We’re not there yet. So we decided to redo the book.
IVL: The exciting thing for us was the editing and putting it together. Once we decided no chronological, which for us was not interesting, it became really about the combination of the pictures.

The pairings have a nice rhythm.
IVL: It’s really about how all those images that we’ve made in the past 26 years live inside our heads, especially this idea of art, fashion, and portraiture being all the same, from the same source. It really depends on the context or the venue in which you see the image.
VM: It also became one body of work because it takes time away. You see a picture from 1985 next to a picture of 2011 and they’re still holding up. You don’t know when this picture is from. It could be yesterday or 26 years ago. Continue Reading “The Image Makers: Inez And Vinoodh” »

DNM’s WMN

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BLK DNM’s cross-platform plan for world domination continues. Johan Lindeberg’s men’s and women’s label, which puts out a printed gazette and a series of videos in addition to clothes and accessories—and, during fashion week, opened the doors of its first store—recently launched its own blog, BLKDNMcloseup.com. The journal offers a look behind the scenes at the line’s process, and also brings in collaborators to spread their chosen messages. Today, the first in a series of mini-shoots created especially for BLK DNM Closeup by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The point, explained the label’s Max Vallot, is to harness the power of social media to help effect change. The first installment, published today, spotlights Christy Turlington Burns (wearing Coat 6 by BLK DNM) and her organization, Every Mother Counts, dedicated to fighting preventable deaths during pregnancy and childbirth. “Strong and independent women have always been an inspiration for Johan,” Vallot explained.

Photo: Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin / Courtesy of BLK DNM

Meet Pierre Balmain  

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“Is that what we’re calling it these days?” asked a colleague as I rattled off my day’s schedule. No, no, not Balmain. Pierre Balmain—as in the younger diffusion line sibling of the bling-ed out and be-shouldered über-babe’s fave label. World, meet Pierre.

Actually, PB, which debuted yesterday in Paris in a presentation, is supremely low-key and understated. There’s not a sequin in the mix. But there is quite a bit that the girls who obsess over Balmain season after season will want to buy and wear—whether they can only aspire to the big-sister line’s demographic or not. For girls, the look is Paris Voguette Casual. The line’s signature jeans are plain, black, and skinny with trapunto motorcycle panels and silver zips at the pockets and ankle. They’re perfect with a little metallic leather bomber or black motorcycle jacket. A little body-con black jersey dress seems almost modest despite the slash at the bustline. Though there’s a fun bit of trash and splash in zebra-print jeans and a gingham top, not to mention the PB logo writ large on the back of a baseball jersey. The line has a unisex-y echo. For boys, the black jeans and motorcycle jacket get repeated, and a few more tailored blazers and sharply cut button-downs are in the mix.

On loop at the label’s Second Arrondissement showroom was a video shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin of model Abbey Lee Kershaw, her boyfriend, Matthew Hutchinson, and their band Our Mountain racing around Manhattan all kitted out in the line. They look, appropriately enough, like grunged-out rockers. They also look, appropriately enough, pretty cool. It’s not hard to imagine new Balmainiacs being minted after a viewing or two. That makes it the rare fashion film that actually makes sense.

Photos: Courtesy of Pierre Balmain