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7 posts tagged "Isabella Rossellini"

Big Love for Patrick Kelly

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Patrick Kelly

If Patrick Kelly’s legacy has been a somewhat neglected one, that’s soon to change, with help from the Philadelphia Museum of Art’s upcoming Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love. The retrospective of the Mississippi-born designer, whose skyrocketing career was cut short when he died of AIDS at age 35 in 1990, offers a comprehensive look at Kelly’s cheeky brand of femininity. This irreverence earned him a celebrity following, including Grace Jones, Isabella Rossellini, and even an aged Bette Davis, who championed his garments in an effort to find investors for the young designer. After a start working at Atlanta’s Yves Saint Laurent boutique, Kelly cut his teeth as an American in Paris, creating costumes for nightclub vedettes. By 1988 he had found the sponsor he needed in Yves Saint Laurent chairman Pierre Bergé. Kelly would soon become the first African-American designer inducted into the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. A previous retrospective bowed at the Brooklyn Museum in 2004.

Runway of Love boasts photography by the likes of Pierre et Gilles, runway videos from Kelly’s five years of shows, and more than eighty archival ensembles, including his take on Josephine Baker’s infamous banana skirt and a series of Moschino-esque, button-studded body-con frocks. The exhibition’s mannequins come in a variety of skin tones, a nod to Kelly’s embrace of women regardless of race or waistline.

Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love opens this Sunday and runs through November 30.

Vibrant Viramontes

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Few people captured the zeitgeist of the 1980s fashion and club scene as expressively as fashion illustrator Tony Viramontes. His work explodes off the pages of an extensive new monograph, Bold, Beautiful and Damned – the World of 1980s Fashion Illustrator Tony Viramontes, which, authored by Dean Rhys Morgan, will be released by Laurence King Publishing on October 7. Viramontes—who was educated in fashion illustration under Steven Meisel at Parsons, was mentored by Antonio Lopez, and made his debut in The New York Times in 1979—had a firm grasp on the eighties fascination with the androgynous, transgressive, and performative. He drew male and female models with wide shoulders, large mouths, marked eyebrows, and empowered stances in a constant state of vivid expression. The artist worked for and with everyone from The Face, Vogue, Yves Saint Laurent (above, top right), Valentino (above, top left), Chanel, Claude Montana, and Jean Paul Gaultier, who wrote the forward to Rhys Morgan’s tome. Viramontes’ models included the likes of Naomi Campbell (above, bottom left), Isabella Rossellini, Rene Russo, and Janice Dickinson (below), and he even did the album covers for Arcadia’s So Red the Rose and Janet Jackson’s breakout Control (above, bottom right). Sadly, though, Viramontes’ work was largely forgotten after his passing in 1988. Continue Reading “Vibrant Viramontes” »

Isabella Rossellini’s Model Moment, And More Of Today’s Top Stories

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Isabella Rossellini is making her Bulgari campaign debut. The Italian actress was photographed by Annie Leibovitz at her New York studio for images that were inspired by the work of British painter Meredith Frampton. Rossellini is promoting her handbags for the label’s Fall and Spring collections. [WWD]

Vivienne Westwood, the politician? For now, at least. The British designer is set to front an international government campaign with advertisements on giant billboards the world over. The GREAT campaign initiative, announced by Prime Minister David Cameron, is to promote all things British, technology, entrepreneurship, shopping, and music. Westwood will represent the creativity category. [Vogue U.K.]

Jewelry designer Aurélie Bidermann is getting ready to open her first store. The Amalfi Coast-inspired flagship will be located in Paris’ Saint-Germain-des-Près district and will feature colorful decor in turquoise, emerald, yellow, and coral. To celebrate the occasion, Bidermann has designed a limited-edition necklace and bracelet engraved with iconic motifs. [WWD]

The French equestrian team will be riding into the 2012 Olympics in style. The horseback riders will be wearing Hermès riding jackets, designed especially for the games. The luxury label went back to what it knows best, having started out selling saddlery 200 years ago. The jacket is blazer-style, done in navy with red labels in a technical fabric. [Telegraph]

Photo: Courtesy of Bulgari

Acne On The Body

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Since launching Acne Paper in 2004, the magazine’s editor in chief and creative director, Thomas Persson, has done far more than simply prove it’s not merely a glossy offset of the denim empire. This week, he’s in New York to fête the launch of the latest issue, number 13. And it’s a very fitting location for celebration—Acne is set to open its first flagship store and office (at 33 Greene Street) outside of Europe in Manhattan later this spring.

As for the latest 256-page edition, the theme is the human body. “We were interested in looking at the body from an artistic angle, one that is broader than the general representation of the human form in magazines today,” Persson tells Style.com. “I find that we are so obsessed with modern, rather boring beauty ideals, the perfectly chiseled, impersonal bodies often lacking in humanity, history, and a life lived. So we wanted to look at the human form as an inspiration beyond that.”

That vision carried over in interviews with the likes of Isabella Rossellini, Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn (pictured, above), Lillian Bassman, and Lola Schnabel, and rich photo essays to go with them. Here, Style.com has the exclusive first look at a few of the editorials, including Fonssagrives-Penn’s (with photos by her husband, Irving, selected by their son, Tom Penn) and Bassman’s—both are women that drew Persson’s attention for their glamour and sophistication.

“I have always admired Lillian Bassman’s work and had the great privilege of spending an afternoon with her last September,” Persson says of the late fashion photographer, who died just last month. “I was so taken by her wit and strength and character and was so sad when I got the news she had passed away. Our interview must have been the last she ever gave.” As for Fonssagrives-Penn, he says, “I wanted to show an amazing side of her that is not so well-known, which is that of an artist. She was an incredibly gifted sculptor and painter; her work is my favorite of any artist.”

Photos: Irving Penn; Lillian Bassman

 

A Healthy Breakfast

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On the ride up to the seventh floor of the Museum of Arts and Design today, Arianna Huffington and Maria Cornejo chatted on the need for coffee and other morning matters. It was half past 8 a.m. after all, and Huffington was a panel member for the CFDA Health Initiative’s “A Well-Balanced Life” discussion. (The news magnate was joined by other busy ladies: Elettra Wiedemann, Monique Péan, Karolina Kurkova, and moderator Alina Cho, who brightened the room in a sunny yellow print frock.) The conversation covered practical tips. Huffington, for one, sang the praises of getting a full night’s sleep. “For me, there is nothing more healing,” she told the audience that included Francisco Costa, Joseph Altuzarra, Prabal Gurung, and Olivier Theyskens. She also touched on something she nattily called “GPS for the soul,” which includes activities that keep people centered (read: weekend yoga). Wiedemann, meanwhile, recommended self-development, such as enrolling in graduate classes. And Péan, a former Wall Street banker turned jewelry designer, advised carrying on-the-go protein during fashion week.

With focus turning to the show season and tough casting decisions, the mood veered in a more serious direction. Kurkova related the pressures models face with body weight and image. In her successful career, she has dealt with health issues, she said, and teared up when mentioning her husband’s devout support throughout that rough patch. Huffington talked about her youngest daughter Isabella, who battled an eating disorder at age 12. But if there was one takeaway from the morning go-around, it was that mentors help light the way. Wiedemann said her father was her rock. For example, when she had to wear a back brace as a young teen (“it was real-life Romy and Michele,” she said), he steered her toward swimming. He was also a former model and he met her mother, Isabella Rossellini, on the set of a Calvin Klein shoot. To which Wiedemann cheered to Costa, “Thanks, Francisco!”

Photo: Neil Rasmus/BFAnyc.com