22 posts tagged "Italo Zucchelli"
Italo Zucchelli, the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection’s menswear, was unexpectedly enthusiastic about a subject in fashion—at least in men’s fashion—that most prefer to ignore: pre-collections. “It’s kind of new for men,” Zucchelli said. Not long ago, the situation was much the same for womenswear: Pre-collections were commercial lines, meant to bolster store buys (in practice, they often make up to 70 percent, or more, of many retailers’ annual purchases) and distill the themes of the mainline “editorial” collections presented on the runway into more wearable, salable form. But anyone reading Style.com over the past few years has seen pre-collections boom, often into runway shows of their own. (See our complete coverage if you disbelieve.)
ould the same happen for menswear? Zucchelli, for one, makes such a thing seem possible. (His sales, he reports, are split fifty-fifty between pre-collections and Spring and Fall collections.) “The pre-collections became bigger and bigger,” he said. “Now I’m injecting fashion.” The Pre-Fall 2014 collection, debuting here, makes the point. The airy palette of the Spring ’14 collection, inspired in part by the work of James Turrell, turned darker, but blue remained dominant. Makes sense: Navy is a color no man is afraid to buy. But Zucchelli made good on his promise of more fashion in this traditionally sales-friendly offering. A bonded flannel car coat, easy and approachable, was spliced together with a panel of contrast fabric. “Techy” was Zucchelli’s word for it. That future-leaning, technological bent, which has characterized many of his collections for the label, was evident throughout: In the moire jacquard motif on suits and jackets, the slash details worked into the seams of tailored garments, and, most of all, the printed graphic sweatshirts and tees that the designer said were already attracting significant sales attention. They featured blue-tinted aerial illustrations of one of the world’s techiest cities: Tokyo.
Aubrey Drake Graham may have started as a teenage actor on Degrassi: The Next Generation, but now, he’s selling out shows at Brooklyn’s Barclay’s Center—at least, he did last night with the New York segment of his “Would You Like a Tour?” tour. That’s no small feat—and Drake’s other coup was getting Calvin Klein Collection to provide his onstage wardrobe.
The musician, who turned 27 a few days ago, used yesterday’s gig to celebrate his birthday with a crowd that included several Brooklyn Nets, Victor Cruz, and guest performers Busta Rhymes and A$AP Rocky (along with GF Chanel Iman). Also celebrating was Calvin Klein men’s creative director Italo Zucchelli, who met Drake for the first time at the house’s fashion week party in September. Although he’s worked with countless celebrities, this is Zucchelli’s first time designing a tour wardrobe. “I’m a music obsessive,” he said. “Working on this, I felt very in my element.” Drake wore two of the custom looks last night: a light blue denim hooded shirt, tank top, and multi-pocket cargo pant, and later, a reflective tank top and track pant as he serenaded the crowd on a round, elevated catwalk. Unlike some other rappers, Drake completed his show without a single wardrobe malfunction.
August is the peak of summer, and we’re trying to make the best of it before New York fashion week kicks off in three-and-a-half weeks. That means spending as much time as possible by the water, whether it be a weekend trip to the shore, swimming in a friend’s pool, or even running through sprinklers in the park. Most often, though, we’re parked right here at our Style.com desks, which is why we’re particularly happy about the recent wave of water prints. Dion Lee showed reflective ripples on body-con dresses for Resort, and the Just Cavalli lineup featured an intarsia-knit pullover with a Hokusai-esque rip current. Mary Katrantzou, meanwhile, channeled her inner Bob Ross (The Joy of Painting legend), showing scenic landscape prints, including a river flowing underneath a bridge. Womenswear designers aren’t the only ones taking the plunge. Italo Zucchelli sent oceanic motifs down the Calvin Klein Collection runway, Miuccia Prada put a sinister spin on traditional tropical prints, and the hand-drawn waves that turned up at Kenzo, on button-downs and fold-over bags, will inevitably be popular in the streets.
The fact that sandals—from flip-flops to gladiators—emerged as a keynote trend on the Spring ’14 menswear runways isn’t terribly surprising. However, a trio of the industry’s heaviest hitters rendered a unique (and somewhat unexpected) take on the staple: exotic-skin Teva-style footwear.
At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci showed snakeskin sandals to complement his Africana-tech motifs. In a palette of coral snake and black mamba, the shoes were a nice carryover from the designer’s Fall ’13 womenswear lineup, which featured banded python and eel-skin booties.
Dries Van Noten, too, implemented snakeskin on his Teva-esque kicks, pairing the vermilion hide with Velcro closures and gummy rubber. And at Calvin Klein, Italo Zucchelli offered an iteration in powder-blue crocodile—a hue derived from Fire Island’s summer seas. However, if the Discovery Channel has taught us anything this week, it’s that the only creatures we need to fear in the Atlantic are sharks.