25 posts tagged "Italo Zucchelli"
The Fall ’14 menswear collections move on to Milan tomorrow, and will be followed by the shows in Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Calvin Klein Collection, designed by Italo Zucchelli
WHEN: Sunday, January 12
WHAT: “Tough.” —Italo Zucchelli. The designer sent us an inspiration image by artist Bettina Hubby, above.
Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci traveled to New York this week to present his new Pre-Fall collection to the press. But like several other designers of late (among them Calvin Klein Collection’s Italo Zucchelli and Dior Homme’s Kris Van Assche), Tisci is promoting not only his women’s pre-collection, but one for men, too. “This collection comprises the ten essential looks for the Givenchy man,” he told Style.com about the men’s line, which features tribal prints and geometric details, as well as new plays on bleached denim. “The techno-ethnic print is taken to another level, particularly with the new Rave bag. The overall feeling this season is elegant, yet urban.” The range picks up some of the same notes as the African-inspired menswear collection for Spring ’14, but also that of the women’s Spring ’14 offering. Cross-pollination is a Tisci tried-and-true, which should make it no surprise that he hinted that polo shirts debuting now as part of women’s Pre-Fall will find new life in the men’s Fall ’14 collection in a few weeks.
The complete men’s Pre-Fall ’14 collection debuts exclusively on Style.com. Click here for the full slideshow.
When I traveled to Los Angeles with Calvin Klein Collection’s Italo Zucchelli to interview David Lynch for Style.com’s piece on their shared passion for Transcendental Meditation, the first thing Zucchelli mentioned was Lynch’s past work for the label. Circa Twin Peaks, Lynch shot four ads for Obsession and Obsession for Men, Calvin Klein’s fragrances, each based on a bit of poetry or prose. I confess that my own viewing habits in the late eighties ran more to Sesame Street than Mulholland Drive, so I couldn’t call them to mind. Luckily they’re all readily available on that inexhaustible resource, YouTube. As you read Lynch and Zucchelli’s thoughts on meditation, creativity, and—I kid you not—urinal cleaning, pause to check out the vintage spots. And keep an eye out for Lara Flynn Boyle of Twin Peaks in the short inspired by Flaubert’s Madame Bovary.
Italo Zucchelli, the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection’s menswear, was unexpectedly enthusiastic about a subject in fashion—at least in men’s fashion—that most prefer to ignore: pre-collections. “It’s kind of new for men,” Zucchelli said. Not long ago, the situation was much the same for womenswear: Pre-collections were commercial lines, meant to bolster store buys (in practice, they often make up to 70 percent, or more, of many retailers’ annual purchases) and distill the themes of the mainline “editorial” collections presented on the runway into more wearable, salable form. But anyone reading Style.com over the past few years has seen pre-collections boom, often into runway shows of their own. (See our complete coverage if you disbelieve.)
ould the same happen for menswear? Zucchelli, for one, makes such a thing seem possible. (His sales, he reports, are split fifty-fifty between pre-collections and Spring and Fall collections.) “The pre-collections became bigger and bigger,” he said. “Now I’m injecting fashion.” The Pre-Fall 2014 collection, debuting here, makes the point. The airy palette of the Spring ’14 collection, inspired in part by the work of James Turrell, turned darker, but blue remained dominant. Makes sense: Navy is a color no man is afraid to buy. But Zucchelli made good on his promise of more fashion in this traditionally sales-friendly offering. A bonded flannel car coat, easy and approachable, was spliced together with a panel of contrast fabric. “Techy” was Zucchelli’s word for it. That future-leaning, technological bent, which has characterized many of his collections for the label, was evident throughout: In the moire jacquard motif on suits and jackets, the slash details worked into the seams of tailored garments, and, most of all, the printed graphic sweatshirts and tees that the designer said were already attracting significant sales attention. They featured blue-tinted aerial illustrations of one of the world’s techiest cities: Tokyo.
Aubrey Drake Graham may have started as a teenage actor on Degrassi: The Next Generation, but now, he’s selling out shows at Brooklyn’s Barclay’s Center—at least, he did last night with the New York segment of his “Would You Like a Tour?” tour. That’s no small feat—and Drake’s other coup was getting Calvin Klein Collection to provide his onstage wardrobe.
The musician, who turned 27 a few days ago, used yesterday’s gig to celebrate his birthday with a crowd that included several Brooklyn Nets, Victor Cruz, and guest performers Busta Rhymes and A$AP Rocky (along with GF Chanel Iman). Also celebrating was Calvin Klein men’s creative director Italo Zucchelli, who met Drake for the first time at the house’s fashion week party in September. Although he’s worked with countless celebrities, this is Zucchelli’s first time designing a tour wardrobe. “I’m a music obsessive,” he said. “Working on this, I felt very in my element.” Drake wore two of the custom looks last night: a light blue denim hooded shirt, tank top, and multi-pocket cargo pant, and later, a reflective tank top and track pant as he serenaded the crowd on a round, elevated catwalk. Unlike some other rappers, Drake completed his show without a single wardrobe malfunction.