25 posts tagged "Italo Zucchelli"
August is the peak of summer, and we’re trying to make the best of it before New York fashion week kicks off in three-and-a-half weeks. That means spending as much time as possible by the water, whether it be a weekend trip to the shore, swimming in a friend’s pool, or even running through sprinklers in the park. Most often, though, we’re parked right here at our Style.com desks, which is why we’re particularly happy about the recent wave of water prints. Dion Lee showed reflective ripples on body-con dresses for Resort, and the Just Cavalli lineup featured an intarsia-knit pullover with a Hokusai-esque rip current. Mary Katrantzou, meanwhile, channeled her inner Bob Ross (The Joy of Painting legend), showing scenic landscape prints, including a river flowing underneath a bridge. Womenswear designers aren’t the only ones taking the plunge. Italo Zucchelli sent oceanic motifs down the Calvin Klein Collection runway, Miuccia Prada put a sinister spin on traditional tropical prints, and the hand-drawn waves that turned up at Kenzo, on button-downs and fold-over bags, will inevitably be popular in the streets.
The fact that sandals—from flip-flops to gladiators—emerged as a keynote trend on the Spring ’14 menswear runways isn’t terribly surprising. However, a trio of the industry’s heaviest hitters rendered a unique (and somewhat unexpected) take on the staple: exotic-skin Teva-style footwear.
At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci showed snakeskin sandals to complement his Africana-tech motifs. In a palette of coral snake and black mamba, the shoes were a nice carryover from the designer’s Fall ’13 womenswear lineup, which featured banded python and eel-skin booties.
Dries Van Noten, too, implemented snakeskin on his Teva-esque kicks, pairing the vermilion hide with Velcro closures and gummy rubber. And at Calvin Klein, Italo Zucchelli offered an iteration in powder-blue crocodile—a hue derived from Fire Island’s summer seas. However, if the Discovery Channel has taught us anything this week, it’s that the only creatures we need to fear in the Atlantic are sharks.
Milanese runways are feeling the heat, as troves of Italy’s presenters this menswear season have rendered sunset-inspired motifs on their wares, from ombré fadeaways to photo-realistic Atlantic twilights.
Calvin Klein‘s Italo Zucchelli showed a brilliant jumper aflame in solar fuchsia—a depiction of the view from his Fire Island summer home (above, right). Zucchelli also looked to James Turrell’s light sculptures—a timely nod, considering the artist’s much-hyped summer installation at New York’s Guggenheim Museum. Moschino, too, lensed a vivid, filmic gloaming on a range of bathing suits.
Dame Vivienne Westwood sent her boys to a sort of pan-global beach town, lending a sun-kissed casualness to her agitprop beat. One periwinkle-turned-rose-petal top caught our eye in particular. But it was Fendi‘s blur on a simple silken T-shirt that won the ombré challenge, hazily recalling a scorching desert (above, left).
And then there’s Prada (above, center). Miuccia gamely explored the underbelly of paradises then and now—spurring thoughts of wartime Vietnam (helicopters on the soundtrack) and seedy Honolulu racketeers. A series of bombers—heat-pressed with dusk-time littoral snapshots—perfectly encapsulated Prada’s ominous tropical sundown.
The Spring ’14 menswear shows are under way in Milan. Before their collections hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our complete collection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Calvin Klein, designed by Italo Zucchelli
WHEN: Sunday, June 23
WHAT: “Spring 2014 is a celebration of the summer sky, and the simplicity of the summer wardrobe.” —Italo Zucchelli. The designer sent us three inspiration photos of artworks by David Hockney (above), Paul Graham (below, left), and James Turrell (below, right).
Photos: David Hockney from Camera Works; Paul Graham from End of an Age, James Turrell’s The Deer Shelter Skyspace at Yorkshire Sculpture Park, all courtesy of Calvin Klein