5 posts tagged "J. JS Lee"
London’s never-ending parade of young talent continues today, as NEWGEN announced the nine up-and-coming brands that will receive sponsorship for the Spring ’14 season. J. JS Lee, Brazilian-born knitwear maestro Lucas Nascimento (left), rising star Simone Rocha, design duo Marques’Almeida, and the clever trio behind Sister by Sibling will all receive catwalk funding, while Nasir Mazhar, Sophia Webster, and 1205 have earned presentation support, and Liam Fahy has won exhibition sponsorship. The designers will debut their Spring ’14 collections during London fashion week, which kicks off on September 13.
Milan may be known for fashion powerhouses like Prada, Gucci, and Versace, but it seems the city has room for the little guy, too. Since 2011, YOOX Group’s luxury e-boutique, Thecorner.com, and Vogue Italia have been supporting emerging talents through their initiative The Vogue Talents Corner—a project that both highlights up-and-coming designers with an exhibition during Milan fashion week, and helps them build a retail presence by offering their wares on the shopping site. This year, the initiative champions eleven young ready-to-wear and accessories brands from across the globe, like Palmer//Harding (a shirt-centric range by Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding), Kristy Ward (necklace pictured left), Kzeniya (an accessories line by Kzeniya Oudenot, clutch pictured left) Vs2R (a footwear label by Vincenzo Somarrelli, pictured left) and J JS Lee (a ready-to-wear line by Jackie Lee, top pictured left). Each brand will showcase its Fall ’13 collection in an installation at the Palazzo Morando, which opens tonight. “For the most part, it’s instinct. And sometimes it’s simply what we like!” said Yoox.com founder and CEO Federico Marchetti when asked about the selection process. Marchetti explained that he looks for designers who exemplify creativity and innovation, and that this year he was particularly impressed by the group’s focus on craftsmanship and “excellent” materials. Looks from the eleven selected designers’ Spring ’13 collections will be available from today, on www.thecorner.com.
Twenty-four designers, including Thomas Tait (pictured), J. JS Lee, and Palmer//Harding’s Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding, are in New York today as part of London Show Rooms’ 48-hour showcase to attract more interest in U.K. labels and bring attention to the debut of London Collections: Men (June 15 to 17). The inaugural men’s program will officially launch with a reception at St. James’s Palace hosted by the Prince of Wales.
Tait, the young designer who took home the Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize award in 2010, has been steadily increasing his U.S. presence ever since. Most recently, the Canadian-born designer reports, he collaborated with pro skateboarder Keith Hufnagel, creating a collection of limited-edition baseball hats for his Huf line, in addition to teaming up with Cutler & Gross on a capsule collection and consulting for a major U.S. brand (a name he can’t yet reveal).
Jackie Lee, or J. JS Lee, as the London-based Korean designer’s label is known, thought of warm fuzzy clouds for her first on-calendar show this afternoon. “I was inspired by clouds, shadows, and innocence,” Lee said between casting sessions. “When I was on the plane back to London from Korea, I looked down at the clouds; pure, clean, giving a comfortably warm feeling. A very Spring/Summer aesthetic, but I really wanted to put that warm feeling into a winter collection.”
Since her 2010 Saint Martins graduate show, Lee has built her name on the tailored, clean pieces ideal for a modern working wardrobe. The cloud motif is a departure. Lee says she wants her woman enveloped in innocence, and the color palette, playing on the theme, is calm and serene, a gray chart from ivory to black with a ray of sunshine, butter yellow. “There are a lot of details on each piece, but you still feel that it’s not messy; it looks very pure.”
Lee’s dresses have very structured bottoms with padded skirts contrasted with floaty tops. One boxy style comes with a squashy padded outline—bar the sleeves that, when worn, fall floppy. Ribbed knitwear features felted panels to the hem for that fuzzy feeling. A collared top has no line for a yoke but includes hand-stitching inside to create the shadow of a yoke: the collection’s theme in a single detail. “That is the story of shadow,” Lee said. “It’s there but it’s not there, it’s real but it’s not real.”
London is famously supportive of its young designers, and today, the British Fashion Council announced the 18 who will be the beneficiaries of the NewGen sponsorship at London fashion week in February.
Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Mary Katrantzou, David Koma, and Michael van der Ham will all be presenting shows on the catwalk, supported by NewGen. Christopher Raeburn, Craig Lawrence, J. JS Lee, and milliner Nasir Mazhar will hold presentations; jewelers Dominic Jones and Jordan Askill will stage installations; and menswear designer J.W. Anderson will screen a film. There’ll also be a larger exhibition featuring the work of all of the designers above, plus Dorchester Prize finalists Chau Har Lee and Thomas Tait, Fannie Schiavoni, Felicity Brown, Yang Du, and Finnish designer Heikki Salonen.
Check out the links above to see runway shows, reviews, blogs, and all of Style.com’s past coverage on the winning designers.
Pictured above, left to right: Spring 2011 looks from Holly Fulton, Mary Katrantzou, and Michael Van Der Ham.