August 22 2014

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11 posts tagged "J Mendel"

The Split-Second Preview: J. Mendel


The Fall ’14 Ready-to-Wear collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.

J. Mendel

WHO: J. Mendel, designed by Gilles Mendel

WHERE: New York

WHEN: Thursday, February 13

WHAT: “I was interested in color play and controlled asymmetry. Plaid echoes throughout the collection, informing the furs and the ready-to-wear.” —Gilles Mendel. The designer sent us a detail shot of one of his Fall furs, above.

Photo: Courtesy of J. Mendel

Cooper-Hewitt to Honor Behnaz Sarafpour


This morning, the Smithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum announced the winners of its prestigious National Design Awards—even though the official bestowals won’t occur until October. This year’s recipient of the Fashion award is none other than the Iranian-born and New York-based Behnaz Sarafpour.

Sarafpour’s line, which she founded in 2001, has evolved into a well-rounded womenswear range that fuses feminine cuts with innovative textiles. Her Fall 2013 collection, in particular, might have caught the eye of Caroline Baumann, Cooper-Hewitt’s acting director. The lineup featured classic silhouettes turned modern via neoprene and piled velvet. Previous winners of the honor include Thom Browne (2012), J. Mendel (2011), Rick Owens (2007), and Tom Ford (2003).

Photo: Behnaz Sarafpour

Frankely Speaking


Miu Miu’s Spring campaign, which broke today, features top models in small groupings—Arizona Muse, Malgosia Bela, Adriana Lima, and Doutzen Kroes among them. But as the devoted model-watcher and street-style photog Craig Arend points out, one girl seems to reign supreme over the rest: Bette Franke (above right). By his count, the Dutch model appears in nine of the 19 Miu pics. She’s also the face of the new See by Chloé fragrance, Bottega Veneta and J. Mendel’s pre-fall lookbooks, and Bottega’s recent Resort campaign. Longtime runway veteran though she may be, looks like her star is on the rise.

To see 1,200-plus pics of Bette Franke on the runway, click here.

Photo: Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin / Courtesy of Miu Miu

A Runway, A Seam, And A Dream: We Check In With 11 NYFW Newcomers


Season in and season out, newcomers join the New York fashion week schedule, determined to make a name for themselves. Succeeding takes a great deal of talent, tenacity, business savvy, and a solid stroke of luck, but even Alexander Wang was just a Parsons dropout with a dream a few years back. Over the past several weeks, met with a slew of this year’s hopefuls to preview their forthcoming collections, and there are a few we’re particularly keen on. Brandon Sun did time at Oscar de la Renta and J. Mendel before setting out on his own just over a year ago. His luxe furs are already selling at Bergdorf Goodman and Saks, and his tweedy column dresses for Spring should connect with buyers, too. After skipping out on presentations for the past two seasons, Jonathan Simkhai is back on the circuit with a sporty lineup (pictured) full of board shorts and shifts. Other notables include Houghton’s Katharine Polk, who offers cool, printed silk separates à la Céline, and Tanya Taylor, whose second outing is inspired by the famed Sandy Lane hotel in Barbados circa 1961.

CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of up-and-comers worth checking out at New York fashion week.

Photo: Courtesy of Jonathan Simkhai

Trading His Furs For Fouettés


With just hours before the curtain rises at the David H. Koch theater for the New York City Ballet’s Spring Gala tonight, J. Mendel’s Gilles Mendel is busy making the finishing touches on the costumes he’s designed for mater in chief Peter Martins’ new work, titled Mes Oiseaux. “I have been running back and forth to Lincoln Center with my scissors for two days now,” he told before heading back to the theater today. “It’s like doing a haircut—just a little more on this side and on that side until it’s perfect. It’s so surreal, here I am standing on the stage at Lincoln Center having the dancers of the New York City ballet do pirouettes for me so we can see that everything looks just right.”

It’s not the French designer’s first spin in the dance world. Back in 2010 he created the costumes for NYCB’s performance of Melissa Barak’s original ballet, Call Me Ben, which also provided inspiration for his Spring 2011 collection. “I like my clothes to be very precise because in fashion you want to look at them up close,” he said. “But from that experience, I learned to let go and stand 20 feet away from the dancer—things have to look good from a distance on the stage.”

For his second act, the designer brought the same femininity that’s linked to the J. Mendel aesthetic using tulle, stretch georgette, and muslin. But, he warns, “I think people will be quite surprised—it’s very graphic. The ballet is about three women and their relationship with a man. Peter and I wanted to give to the public a moment of discovery, so you wouldn’t know immediately that one woman is good, one is bad.” He designed a series of mostly-black costumes for the number, which only show the dancer’s true colors—figuratively and literally—when they move. An exclusive sketch of one of Mendel’s costumes is above.

Mes Oiseaux will be performed tonight alongside the Balanchine classic Symphony in C, with costumes by Marc Happel, and the latest work (titled Two Hearts) by former NYCB principal dancer and husband to Natalie Portman, Benjamin Millepied, with costumes by Rodarte. And check back tomorrow in People & Parties for our full report on the gala, hosted by honorary chairman Natalie Portman.

Illustration: Courtesy of J. Mendel