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4 posts tagged "James Kaliardos"

Fashion And Art Converge At The Whitney


It had all the fixings of a standard fashion show—front-row fixtures like Michael Stipe and Jen Brill, makeup by James Kaliardos for MAC, hair by Bumble and Bumble, and in-demand models from agencies like IMG and Ford, but K8 Hardy‘s Untitled Runway Show at the Whitney Museum on Sunday was anything but typical. The multimedia performance artist, known best for her cult zine FashionFashion, put together a collection of over 30 looks as part of her exhibition for the 2012 Biennial. For Hardy, the presentation was a way of creating a dialogue about commercialism and the way fashion affects society’s views on women rather than a vehicle for showing off her design chops.

The crowd of art enthusiasts waited patiently for about half an hour before the first model stepped out onto the wood and steel runway set, installed for the occasion by fellow Biennial artist Oscar Tuazon. Walking to amped-up reggaeton beats mixed up with Neutrogena radio ads and high-pitched nail art tutorials that had some audience members covering their ears, each model affected her own signature strut based on Hardy’s instructions. “I used to love the shows where models would dance down the runway,” Hardy told after the show. Some shuffled slowly with a moribund limp, others did ballet-like pliés and leaps, and one girl even staged a convincing runway stumble and tumble. Each catwalker wore teased-to-the-max wigs and face paint that resembled another spoof on the now-famous Tanning Mom.
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School Ties


For every fashion student toughing it out in the university, take hope: You may just find your future collaborator in the trenches. “We met in a college dorm,” Visionaire‘s James Kaliardos said of meeting his magazine’s co-founders, Stephen Gan and Cecilia Dean (left), during their Parsons days. “Stephen needed my food card to eat back then in the cafeteria.” Twenty years later, the trio is still raising eyebrows with their evocative flagship publication and receiving accolades too; they took home the first ever Future of Fashion Award at the 45th Annual YMA FSF Geoffrey Beene National Awards dinner last night.

Despite a Northeast snowstorm warning, a bevy of Visionaire admirers and original supporters (including Diane von Furstenberg, Italo Zucchelli, and Milk Studios’ Mazdack Rassi) turned out anyway. “I feel like we’re the grandpa and grandma of the publication,” Isabel Toledo said of her and husband Ruben’s involvement. “We used to put together the issues in our kitchen and it was the second issue where I literally bound each magazine with thread.”

Needle and thread will always have their place in fashion (and maybe even in publishing), but the business proposals of last night’s newly-anointed Geoffrey Beene scholars, who took home $25,000 scholarships for their work, ranged from tech-oriented to Web 3.0. But if online offers instant gratification, print still has the potential for shelf life. “I have this edition of Visionaire that I kept from the nineties,” Calvin Klein’s Zucchelli said. “It’s about birth and religion and all these different visual ideas. It’s old now, but it’s still really special.”

Browns And Nicholas Kirkwood’s London Dance Party


A dance party for Browns Shoes, given by Nicholas Kirkwood, seems like the perfect occasion to talk about the unfortunate combination of high heels, swanky dos, and standing. Taken individually, each of these things is incontrovertibly good—high heels, good; swanky dos, good; standing, the thing that separates human from ape and thus, yes, good. But put them together and, well…ow. “If you know you’re going to be standing for a while, you want to wear a shoe that’s got some proper padding on the ball of the foot,” said Kirkwood on Saturday night at the aforementioned dance party he gave to fête the opening of Browns Shoes in London. “And if you’re wearing a really high heel,” Kirkwood added, “you’re best off with a platform, because that will cushion you against the ground.” Kirkwood, creator of heels about a mile off the ground, knows whereof he speaks, though it must be noted that at the fête itself, hosted by Visionaire‘s Cecilia Dean and makeup artist James Kaliardos, Kirkwood spent rather little of his time just standing around. Rather, inasmuch as the MisShapes and Love, of the band CSS, had been shipped across the pond to DJ, the thing to do was dance. Before he got his groove on, however, Kirkwood did offer some clues to the Fall ’09 collection he’s in the process of completing. “I’ve been working on a heel-platform combination inspired by what happens when, like, ice breaks apart,” he said. “If you remove the negative space between them, they’d fit together.” And how are the broken-ice heels for standing? “I can’t really say,” Kirkwood admitted, “as I don’t actually wear them myself.”

Photo: Courtesy of Browns Shoes

Chloë’s London Debut


Chloë Sevigny has turned up in London from shooting a movie in Wales adapted from the autobiography of the drug smuggler Howard Marks. “It’s called Mr. Nice, and I’m playing his wife Judy,” she told a group of guests she’d invited to dinner at The Double Club, the London phenomenon underwritten by Miuccia Prada and designed by Carsten Höller, whose situationist installations have caught the imagination of Londoners since he designed a series of shute-tubes in the Tate Modern for the population and their kids to play on. Sevigny was there to check out the half-Congolese, half-Western setup and give friends, including Pat McGrath and Edward Enninful, James Kaliardos, Roland Mouret, and Katy England and her husband, Primal Scream’s Bobby Gillespie, the heads-up on her new collection for Opening Ceremony. She’ll be back in the Double Club on Sunday to present a “men’s collection for women,” she was telling everyone. The wide-legged navy slouchy pants she was wearing really whet the appetite.