15 posts tagged "James Long"
“I like a lot of embellishment and I like a lot of print,” said Holly Fulton. She might have been speaking for all her fellow English designers at the London Showrooms, the traveling, British Fashion Council-sponsored showcase which arrived in New York this week, following a stint in L.A. It’s almost a cliché that London designers trend bright and buzzy, but it’s become something of a calling card for the young talents nurtured by the BFC. To tweak the old saw, go big or stay home.
Fulton served up her groupie-inspired Fall collection, which featured lava-rock embellishments, hand-drawn prints, and a rather impressive dress constructed entirely of feathers. Others, like Simone Rocha (above), who’s currently selling stateside in Jeffrey and Opening Ceremony, offered less print but more color. Her key pieces were voluminous waffle-knitted neoprene looks in what she laughingly referred to as “Pepto pink.” Thomas Tait also played on unexpected fusion of spongy, bonded leather and quilted nylon in Day-Glo oranges and lime greens. “I feel like I’ve been shouting,” said Tait, whose line is also carried at Jeffrey. “I’ll be doing something mellower next season.”
Meanwhile, Fyodor Golan, designed by Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman, balanced elegant, elaborately embellished print dresses with more playful leather pieces embossed with smiley faces. Turns out Smiley—the company that owns the rights to the icon—approached the duo for a collaboration, and they jumped at the chance to create, as Frydman put it, a “sexual smiley.” Another duo, Teatum Jones (that is to say, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones) showed bright, seemingly tie-dyed dresses in perforated bonded jersey, as well as a few particularly interesting coats in latex-coated alpaca wool. Yet a third duo, Palmer//Harding, also in attendance, used a similarly clever technique on their wools to make them look like leather.
Men’s designers were on display, too, and they came with news to share. James Long whispered that half the designers showing on the Paris calendar had called to personal-order his sweater knitted with a giant picture of Divine. Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton of Agi & Sam had news of an offbeat football (read: soccer) and owl-inspired capsule collection they’ll launch at Topman next month. And jeweler Dominic Jones revealed he’ll show his first-ever men’s collection during June’s London Collections: Men. In the meantime, he was showing his mainline collection as well as his recently-launched lower priced range, DJ by Dominic Jones. “I wanted to make something that all my friends could afford,” he said when asked about the gold-plated and bright enamel collection of baubles, which average about $100 apiece.
For those who never had the chance to see Jim Morrison (pictured) or Jimi Hendrix perform, you may soon get your chance. The estates of the iconic musicians are both reportedly working on future holographic live performances, similar to the Tupac one that appeared at Coachella this year. [Rolling Stone]
The runners and spectators at this summer’s Olympic Games are going to be treated to designer blankets and badges, courtesy of Giles Deacon and Jeremy Deller. The fashion designer and the conceptual artist, along with eight other designer/artist duos, paired up for the British Fashion Council/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation’s 12-week project, and they were surprisingly the only ones to make a wearable piece—a full-body running suit and a leaf and feather headdress to match. (The blankets and badges are accompanying elements of their project.) [Telegraph]
In other Brit fashion news, J.W. Anderson and James Long have been selected as U.K. representatives and nominees for the International Woolmark Prize. The global honor, which is supported by the Australian Wool Industry, aims to celebrate emerging talent for their use of merino wool. Anderson and Long follow the lead of designers Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld, who received the same prize in 1954. [Vogue U.K.]
Anna Dello Russo was swarmed by paparazzi yesterday at the Salvatore Ferragamo show in Paris. However, it was not the Vogue Nippon editor that they were trying to photograph, but Chinese actress Fan Bingbing. We are happy to report that ADR made it into the Louvre, sans injury. [Page Six]
After cramming a city’s worth of menswear offerings into a single MAN Day for the last few seasons, London is planning to give its standout men’s offerings a bit more room to breathe. The first men’s-only London fashion collections (technically three days, rather than a few weeks) will take place June 15 to 17, with opening programs including a launch event hosted by Prince Charles. In addition to the young London designers who have been showing on MAN DAY—like J.W. Anderson, James Long, Topman, Lou Dalton, and Christopher Shannon—the new opportunity has lured several U.K. brands back to their home turf, including Pringle of Scotland and Nicole Farhi, who have been showing in Milan, and Dunhill. E. Tautz, Hardy Amies, and Richard James will show ready-to-wear collections on Savile Row, and Richard Nicoll (pictured) will debut a menswear collection. The full schedule is now available at www.londoncollections.co.uk.
This morning, the British Fashion Council (BFC) announced the three womenswear designers—Mary Katrantzou, Henry Holland, and Louise Gray—and one menswear designer, James Long, who have been awarded the Fashion Forward sponsorship for two consecutive seasons of London shows. Long is the first menswear designer to receive funding from the Fashion Forward program. They are in good company. In the past six years of the program, the winners have included Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Kane, and, last year, Peter Pilotto, Todd Lynn, and Meadham Kirchhoff.