3 posts tagged "James Scully"
Before a model hits the runway—and before she snags her first editorial, her first ad campaign, and her first billboard—she’s got to make it past the sharp eyes of fashion’s casting directors, who are tasked with finding the perfect girls for designers’ exacting visions. In our fashion week series, the industry’s top casting gurus share their thoughts on who we’ll be seeing this fashion week—and beyond.
James Scully casts Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Reed Krakoff, Victoria Beckham, Jason Wu, and Derek Lam in New York this season. Below, he weighs in on a few of his favorite new and new-to-us faces.
Beegee at SUPREME (left): “This is only Beegee’s first full season, but she enters the shows with the pedigree of having banked future editorials with Carine Roitfeld and Mario Testino. I expect her to be a hit right from the beginning of the week.”
Alyona Subbotina at MARILYN NY (center): “Her milky skin, white hair, and eyebrows definitely stand out. Although she may be categorized along with some of the more android-looking models, don’t be fooled. What the others lack is her personality and that catlike walk, which set her apart from the rest.”
Julia Frauche at NEXT (right): “My underdog of the season, she is a dead ringer for Raquel Zimmermann, who, in my opinion, is the ultimate chameleon with one of the best bodies in the business. Julia reminds me so much of Raquel when she started out, so I’m curious to see how her season goes. I, for one, will definitely be using her.”
Age ain’t nothing but a number? The panelists at the CFDA’s Health Initiative discussion on “The Beauty of Health: Resizing the Sample Size” would have us believe otherwise. “Of the 172 girls I saw for casting for fashion week, 75 of those were 16 or under,” casting director James Scully told the audience at Milk Studios last night. “Everybody is demanding the girls fit into a 33-inch hip. A teenage boy has a 32-inch hip…they start too young and suddenly when they’re 17 turning 18 and they grow breasts and hips, they’ll do anything to fit into the size.”
Model Doutzen Kroes may have since landed Victoria’s Secret and Calvin Klein campaigns, but starting out, she, too, battled the ultra-skinny standard. “I never fit the sample. I probably fit it once, when I was 11,” she deadpanned. Kroes started in the industry at the ripe old age of 18 and was pressured to lose a few pounds. As luck (and a good head on her shoulders) would have it, Kroes gathered her team to rally around her. “We had what we called an ‘ass meeting’ with my agent,” the model recalled with a laugh. “I chose to have a healthy lifestyle and work around that.” Panelist David Bonnouvrier of DNA Models, who reps Kroes, added that a too-young model can’t handle all the pressures of the job. “We think someone 17 or 18 should be getting their first look,” he said. But Bonnouvrier also admitted that the industry wasn’t exactly built for hashing things out in the open. “Of course you have someone like Doutzen and she is untouchable,” he conceded. “But the models won’t talk. There will be retribution sooner or later.” The problem established, the solution seemed less clear. There was blame placed on certain unnamed and influential stylists, and discussion of the vicious, self-perpetuating cycle. But how to actually break that cycle was harder to address. Post-discussion, attendee Rachel Roy had offered the pragmatic answer. “It’s a no-brainer,” the designer told us. “You just do it.”
Phoenix-like, Prabal Gurung has risen from the ashes of Bill Blass, and he’s ready to sell some clothes. At last night’s presentation, the designer was clearly riding high on the buzz that comes from spending quality time with important journalists and being amid a crowd of friends and supporters—particularly those like stylist Tina Laakkonen and casting director James Scully, who all pitched in to help. Blass, of course, closed earlier this year, but Gurung’s impressive and polished debut is clearly more than a few weeks in the making. “It’s for the thinking man’s sex symbol, not the starlet,” Gurung said of his imagined muse. “Zadie Smith, Arundhati Roy…if they went there a little.” The 19 looks—which swung between boyish cool and hard-edged elegance—had a detectable hint of Mssr. Saint Laurent, another designer who wardrobed the sexy, yet empowered set, and one whom Gurung calls his “guru.” They also were unabashedly luxe—embroideries done in India, feathers hand-sewn onto a cocktail frock, and a double-faced cashmere clocking in at $300 a yard, to name a few splurges. But Gurung has made an intentional effort to put economic gloom and doom out of mind. “I just want to do well-made, beautiful clothes,” said Gurung. Seems like a sound plan to us.