135 posts tagged "Jason Wu"
It’s virtually impossible to flip through a glossy these days without coming across at least one picture of Karen Elson, whose career has been in overdrive lately with recent ads for Jason Wu, Sonia Rykiel, Paule Ka, Kurt Geiger, and a new campaign for Louis Vuitton, which was announced today. In the brand’s new “Spirit of Travel” series, Peter Lindbergh went on safari in South Africa with Elson and fellow English rose Edie Campbell, and captured them feeding giraffes and riding zebras, respectively. (Campbell is known for her equestrian skills.) Keeping up her red-hot momentum, Elson has made plenty of appearances during the Fall ’14 shows, too—both in the front row and on the runway. So far, she’s turned up on catwalks including Tom Ford, Michael Kors, Donna Karan, and Diane von Furstenberg, and rubbed elbows with the celebs and editors at Alexander Wang and Rodarte. We wouldn’t be surprised to see more of her during the Paris shows.
We’ve just passed the midway point of fashion month with the Milan shows well under way, and there have been plenty of memorable modeling moments thus far, particularly for newcomers. In general, the top-tier, A-list catwalkers have been more selective with their schedules, leaving room for fresh faces to ascend the ranks. Perhaps the easiest way to break down our favorite rookies is by hair color. By and large, it’s been the season of the platinum blond, with familiar faces Julia Nobis, Ashleigh Good, Juliana Schurig, Sasha Luss, and Devon Windsor making a strong case for bleached tresses (reminiscent of Khaleesi from Game of Thrones). Several new models have been riding Fall’s peroxide wave, too. First is ethereal Polish beauty Ola Rudnicka, who debuted at Prada’s Spring show and landed a spot in the label’s latest campaign. She’s turned up on just about every major runway in each city so far. Rudnicka kicked things off on a high note in New York, walking Jason Wu, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler, and Marc Jacobs. She went on to do Burberry and Christopher Kane in London, and continued to take Milan by storm, bookending No. 21 on Tuesday in addition to walking Max Mara and Moschino yesterday. Another noteworthy newcomer rocking a flaxen mane is Harleth Kuusik (who currently stars in Proenza Schouler’s Spring ads). In New York, she did turns at Rag & Bone, Victoria Beckham, and Proenza Schouler, then followed those up with J.W. Anderson and Erdem in London. We plan to see a lot more of both Rudnicka and Kuusik next week.
Next up is the fiery-tressed group of redheads led by sophomores such as Lera Tribel and Nika Cole (who can forget her teased-out, lamp-shade ’do from Schiaparelli’s Couture show?). They are joined by Quebec native Sophie Touchet, who made an early impact at Thakoon, 3.1 Phillip Lim, MBMJ (a.k.a. Marc by Marc Jacobs), and Burberry Prorsum, then moved on to open Alberta Ferretti and walk in Fendi yesterday. Finally, we’ve got a mixed bag of brunettes, ranging from Dutch stunner Imaan Hammam (she won the genetic lottery with a Moroccan mother and a father from Egypt, and her exotic looks have helped earn her key spots in top-tier casts including Prada, Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, and Fendi) to fierce-looking Ronja Furrer (that strong jawline gave her an edge at Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Christopher Kane, and more). And how about this season’s most buzzed-about newcomer? Waleska Gorczevski has a hell of a name and a hell of a presence. During NYFW, the Brazilian model was the first girl out at Marc Jacobs. She also opened Yigal Azrouël and bookended Victoria Beckham, and has continued to rack up an impressive show list including Calvin Klein Collection, Hugo Boss, Proenza Schouler, Christopher Kane, and Fendi. No doubt Paris will take to her serene, slightly quirky appeal.
Aside from Fall’s freshman class of catwalkers, we’ve witnessed plenty of noteworthy cameos by old-school veterans, too. For example, Alexander Wang’s finale featured the likes of Angela Lindvall, Bridget Hall, Candice Swanepoel, Caroline Trentini, Anne V., Hilary Rhoda, and Jacquetta Wheeler. Meanwhile, Karen Elson has been going at full throttle this year, and she continued to dazzle at Tom Ford, Donna Karan, and Diane von Furstenberg. On the other hand, we’ve got Karolina Kurkova, who surprised us by opening Cushnie et Ochs and turning up at Christopher Kane (where she was easily the most experienced model in the lineup). Other highlights included: Kirsten Owen opening and closing Mary Katrantzou; Mini Anden at Proenza Schouler; Liberty Ross and Stella Tennant at Tom Ford; and the triple threat of Carolyn Murphy, Frankie Rayder, and Liisa Winkler at Michael Kors. Last but not least was the brilliant cast at Burberry Prorsum, which featured Edie Campbell in addition to her two younger sisters, Olympia and Jean. Mark our words, those Campbell girls are stars in the making. And speaking of stars, you can’t deny that Kendall Jenner was a total natural on the runways at Marc Jacobs and Giles.
In the end, perhaps fashion isn’t so complicated. It boils down to this: How do I find my signature and how do I develop it over time? Three things that people have said to me on this subject have stuck in my mind:
Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele (stylist): “I get inspiration from Mr. Alaïa, Mr. Lagerfeld. They know, you know? They know. They are not like all these young designers who change every six months. I think this is strange, because when you have talent inside, you never really change.”
Azzedine Alaïa (designer): “It’s inconceivable to me that someone creative can have a new idea every two months. Because if I have one new idea in a year, I thank heaven.”
Riccardo Tisci (designer), speaking approvingly of Hedi Slimane’s tenure at Saint Laurent: “I think Hedi, he wrote his first chapter [i.e., at Dior Homme] in a capital of fashion, and then he took his time off, and then he started from the same page. It’s like when you go to bed and you’re reading a book: You do the little corner, and then the night after, you start from the same page. And the aesthetic that he does really belongs to him. For sure, it is something that doesn’t look like anybody else, and that’s what I like.”
These thoughts were thrown into particularly sharp relief during a busy day of shows in New York yesterday.
What’s more remarkable about Kors: the fact that he’s now worth a billion dollars or the fact that, after three decades in business, he isn’t resting on his laurels? With his last two collections, he has brought his vision of American luxury into razor-sharp focus.
A very different designer from Kors, of course, but in his own way as American as apple pie or Pop Art. Scott has done what you do if you have your own signature: lived through a few seasons where he enjoyed the support of the faithful—and it’s some faithful; he draws the liveliest crowd in town (hey there, Jared Leto)—but didn’t have the full attention of the fashion press. Thanks to his recent appointment as creative director of Moschino, he’s firmly back in the media spotlight. He didn’t waste the opportunity, delivering a collection that riffed confidently on two great American pastimes: sex and sports.
How do you define the signature of a commercial juggernaut, best known for its menswear, which is now making a serious push into womenswear? That’s Jason Wu’s brief at Hugo Boss. He’s started to do it with the collateral: an Inez and Vinoodh-shot campaign; Gwyneth Paltrow as the face of the fragrance. And his debut collection? As Nicole Phelps said in her review, “Wu’s challenge going forward will be to maintain the Boss polish while figuring out ways to loosen up and have a bit more fun.”
I would be remiss not to mention Sui in this recap. She is one of the treasures of the New York calendar. Here’s Tim Blanks on what made her latest collection such a decadent delight.
Krakoff has been giving this subject a great deal of thought lately. After a few collections that felt the anxiety of European influence, he is now focused on creating his version of American luxury. Read Nicole Phelps’ review here.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were part of a pack of young New York designers who broke through in the last decade. When they celebrated their tenth anniversary a couple of years ago, they decided to drill down on their label’s identity, starting with a powerful but understated new logo. Their aesthetic, now reliably their own, is rooted in the contemporary New York art world. It’s no coincidence that yesterday’s show took place at Gavin Brown’s Enterprise, a gallery in the West Village.
IT’S RALPH, THOUGH
As it happens, I’m writing this after seeing Ralph Lauren’s show on this snowy Thursday morning. Lauren showed looks from his Polo line alongside his top-end collection today, and the move invigorated him. These clothes were as clear and direct as a Hemingway sentence. If America didn’t exist, Ralph Lauren would have had to invent it.
“Sleeping is so last season,” laughed Jason Wu from his New York studio. He was only half kidding. Since Wu was appointed as the new artistic director of womenswear at Hugo Boss last June, he’s had to learn to balance—and separate—designing for the German brand and his eponymous range. “I had apprehensions about being able to juggle both, showing both in New York, being able to make them look different…I thought it was a big challenge,” conceded Wu, who will present his first Boss effort in New York on Wednesday, February 12. “But at this point in my career, it felt really right to embark on this new journey, to challenge myself to do something unexpected.”
Given Boss’ history of stern, precise menswear and Wu’s penchant for directional, feminine designs (he’s not one to shy away from a frill here, or a ruffle there), Wu may have seemed an unlikely choice for Boss, whose women’s range has failed to take off since it was launched in 2000. But his fresh eye, artistic spirit, and understanding of women’s bodies—and wants—might provide just the edge Boss needs. Case in point, his first film for the house, which debuts exclusively here. Styled by Joe McKenna and lensed by Inez & Vinoodh, who also shoot Wu’s own campaigns, the film is aptly dubbed This Is Boss, and stars the new face of the brand, Edie Campbell. “With this film, I wanted to answer the question on a lot of people’s minds: What are we trying to do here?” said Wu, adding that Campbell is the embodiment his hypothetical Boss woman. “She’s modern, she’s someone you want to get to know, she’s well-traveled, cultured, successful…she’s the right person to represent my new vision.”
This Is Boss was shot at the Philip Johnson Glass House in Connecticut, largely because the locale reminded Wu of Boss’s Metzingen, Germany, campus, which happens to have inspired his Fall ’14 collection. “The campus is made up of three huge glass buildings, but it’s set in this picturesque countryside. It’s a complete opposition of beautiful, natural elements and these hard lines of steel and concrete, yet they blend together perfectly. And when I saw it, I said, ‘That is where I’m going to find my womenswear inspiration.’” This concept of opposites appears in the short, too. As Campbell is shown running through the snow in a sharply cut black overcoat (an unexpected blizzard nearly foiled Wu’s shoot), fractured images of cityscapes and blossoming roses flash across the screen. “All the elements are odd together, yet intriguing, and great at the same time,” Wu said. “The film incorporates not only Boss’ DNA, but also expresses everything that the Boss woman is, and wants to be. It’s all her thoughts in one picture.”
As for what we can expect on Wednesday, Wu revealed that we’ll see disciplined menswear influences with a feminine kick, as well as notes of Bauhaus. So is Wu nervous about the big show? “I don’t have time to be nervous!” he chuckled. “I just have time to create and make it all happen.”