75 posts tagged "Jean Paul Gaultier"
You’d think that, after working with Madonna for 15 years, Arianne Phillips would have seen it all. But Phillips, the stylist and costume designer behind a decade and a half of Madonna videos and performances, as well as films like Walk the Line and W.E., says that the pop star’s 2012 MDNA world tour was like nothing she had ever experienced. “There were an epic amount, a tsunami, of costumes,” Phillips told Style.com of the show’s wardrobe, which included an updated iteration of Madonna’s iconic cone bra by Jean Paul Gaultier. “And we aren’t talking tennis shoes and sneakers—it’s costume and fashion.” Prior to the premiere of Madonna: The MDNA Tour, a documentary that airs on Epix tonight at 8 p.m., Phillips, who’s currently in London working on a new film, talked to Style.com about the MDNA costumes, Madonna’s collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, and what it takes to put on an unforgettable show.
Where do you begin when designing costumes for Madonna?
Well, it always starts with the music, of course, and usually Madonna crafts a set list that’s part of a narrative. It’s a story with a beginning, middle, and end. This show was really about transformation. Each act had a different theme and costume had a purpose. This tour with her was definitely the biggest undertaking I have been a part of—on the technical side and on the conceptual side. It’s one thing to just design a costume for Madonna herself, but if you think about it, we had 23 dancers, five band members, and two background singers. And everyone requires multiple costume changes.
How do the costumes help express the show’s narrative?
We think of it as characters, and [Madonna] is playing a part. That character requires development and visuals in addition to the songs she’s singing. In the beginning of the show, she comes out dressed like a queen in a crown with a machine gun. She takes that off to reveal this super-vixen character that we kind of debuted in the “Girl Gone Wild” video. The next act is all about expression and having a message, and it opens up with “Express Yourself.” She’s wearing this homage to a forties majorette. The third act is “Vogue,” and it’s all about identity and gender-bending—iconic Madonna. She’s trying to figure out who she is again. And in the end, it’s a celebration, and she transforms into this powerful Joan of Arc character. Everyone is wearing mesh T-shirts, and it’s just like a really fun party. The tour gave her an opportunity to take classic songs like “Papa Don’t Preach” and give them a new twist. She has been performing these same songs forever, but she’s the queen of reinvention, and she creates an entertaining concept for the shows that keeps it interesting and relevant. The costumes have to underscore that, and they have to provoke and entertain.
How many costume changes did Madonna do throughout the course of the show?
The costumes are part of the choreography, so we have a lot of quick changes, and people are literally changing clothes under the stage. Madonna changes full costumes about four times. But then, for instance, for the “Vogue” act, she comes out in the Gaultier corset and then she disrobes. So by the end of the act, when she sings “Like a Virgin,” she is in a corset and a bra, and she has done different songs in different deconstructions of the outfit. So her costumes change for almost every song.
VFiles—you know it as the one-stop Mercer Street shop famous for its international cool-kid wares and its unique, engaging social-media platform. But as of this month, the store has added a notably more traditional branch to its hyper-hip oeuvre: an expertly sourced vintage capsule dubbed Voyageur Du Temps, replete with pieces from Chanel, Gianni Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier, and more.
Sourced from private dealers worldwide, VFiles’ collection of covetable collectibles—which includes a graffiti-and-vinyl Hermès tote and a cotton-candy-pink Céline knapsack—sprung from one of the site’s most popular clicks: a digitized Chanel lookbook from 1994. Recognizing a thirst for vintage among its followers, the brand decided to fashion its own trove of archived accoutrements.
Pieces from Voyageur Du Temps are available now online and at VFiles’ 12 Mercer Street location in New York City. Prices range from $300 to $3,000.
Last night in Chelsea, Out magazine threw a bash at the Americano to toast its April David Bowie issue. The party drew a pretty diverse crowd of fans, from Ladyfag—who credits Bowie as inspiring her to “go that extra mile, in twenty pounds of makeup”—to Italo Zucchelli, who said that Bowie’s glam rock was one of the reasons he became a designer. “When I discovered him, my world changed,” the Calvin Klein Collection men’s designer told Style.com.
Bowie himself wasn’t in attendance last night, but his influence was omnipresent. Guests painted lightning bolts across their faces and sipped on Ziggy Stardust-themed cocktails, and Bowie’s longtime friend, drag queen Joey Arias, gave a knockout performance. As the night grew late, Out editor in chief Aaron Hicklin opened up about the challenges of doing a David Bowie issue with no David Bowie (the artist has been famously quiet lately in an attempt to let his new album stand on its own). But instead of seeing it as problem, Hicklin saw it as an opportunity—he ditched the idea of the usual cover shoot and feature, and instead commissioned personal essays on Bowie from Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries Van Noten, Jake Shears, Chuck Palahniuk, and more. Said Hicklin, “It was an editor’s dream. I don’t think we would have gotten there if we didn’t have to get there—the journalism had to be much more interesting and creative.” Out‘s new issue is on newsstands now.
Earlier this month, Karl Lagerfeld revealed his capsule range for accessible Brazilian “jelly” shoe brand, Melissa, via a campaign starring Cara Delevingne. The Lagerfeld-lensed images, which depict Ms. Delevingne as a leather-clad bondage dominatrix, stirred up the requisite buzz. And last night, at the label’s Soho boutique, the wares made their much-anticipated New York debut. Featuring a range of pointy plastic flats and sparkly ice-cream-cone-heeled pumps, all of which are fruit scented, the collection boasted a subversive, but almost silly sex appeal. Naturally, this was only enhanced by Lagerfeld’s snaps, which were displayed at yesterday’s fête. “The shoes are amazing, and they smell so good,” offered Delevingne. “In one of the photos, I’m drinking Champagne out of them, so I got to know them pretty well.”
Since launching over thirty years ago, Melissa has worked with some pretty impressive collaborators—Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, and Jason Wu among them. On hand to discuss the latest joint effort was Melissa’s US CEO, Michele Levy, who noted that Lagerfeld “wanted to capture who we are.” (However, the photo shoot, she affirmed, was “Karl’s touch.”) “We are a Brazilian brand, although we’re in 71 countries, and he wanted to embrace that spirit.” One pair of pumps shown in the colors of the country’s flag was particularly patriotic. Continue Reading “Plastic Fantastic: Melissa + Karl Lagerfeld” »
Ever since Fendi debuted its multicolored fur Mohawks in Milan, the punked-up coifs have been fanning out all over the Fall runways. But they’re not appearing as you might expect; rather, designers have appropriated the motif and completely turned it on its head. For starters, Fendi’s pastel quiffs got so much attention that one might have missed Lagerfeld’s punchy Mohawked boots and bags. Haider Ackermann put his own spin on the look, sending his models out with white matted hair fashioned into “death hawks” (a style favored by goths). Not surprisingly, the same rebellious tresses popped up in black at Vivienne Westwood, but the Dame of Punk placed her death dos on black platform booties rather than her catwalkers’ noggins. Jean Paul Gaultier experimented with aubergine and bubblegum-highlighted faux-hawk-mullet hybrids at his Fall show, and over at Loewe, Stuart Vevers garnished the heels of his single-soled sandals with exaggerated, razor-sharp black or blonde fringe. Loewe’s shoes were a particularly “uptown” take on the antiestablishment-rooted style (what would the punks of the seventies have said about that?) and reminded us of YSL’s much-snapped suede Mohawk pumps from Fall 2010. Now, don’t shave and dye your hair just yet (or, actually, maybe do), but we’d have to say that the Mohawk, in its many incarnations, is one of Fall’s most prominent (and playful) punk trends so far.