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April 21 2014

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73 posts tagged "Jean Paul Gaultier"

Coming Out For Bowie

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Last night in Chelsea, Out magazine threw a bash at the Americano to toast its April David Bowie issue. The party drew a pretty diverse crowd of fans, from Ladyfag—who credits Bowie as inspiring her to “go that extra mile, in twenty pounds of makeup”—to Italo Zucchelli, who said that Bowie’s glam rock was one of the reasons he became a designer. “When I discovered him, my world changed,” the Calvin Klein Collection men’s designer told Style.com.

Bowie himself wasn’t in attendance last night, but his influence was omnipresent. Guests painted lightning bolts across their faces and sipped on Ziggy Stardust-themed cocktails, and Bowie’s longtime friend, drag queen Joey Arias, gave a knockout performance. As the night grew late, Out editor in chief Aaron Hicklin opened up about the challenges of doing a David Bowie issue with no David Bowie (the artist has been famously quiet lately in an attempt to let his new album stand on its own). But instead of seeing it as problem, Hicklin saw it as an opportunity—he ditched the idea of the usual cover shoot and feature, and instead commissioned personal essays on Bowie from Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries Van Noten, Jake Shears, Chuck Palahniuk, and more. Said Hicklin, “It was an editor’s dream. I don’t think we would have gotten there if we didn’t have to get there—the journalism had to be much more interesting and creative.” Out‘s new issue is on newsstands now.

Photo: Santiago Felipe

Plastic Fantastic: Melissa + Karl Lagerfeld

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Earlier this month, Karl Lagerfeld revealed his capsule range for accessible Brazilian “jelly” shoe brand, Melissa, via a campaign starring Cara Delevingne. The Lagerfeld-lensed images, which depict Ms. Delevingne as a leather-clad bondage dominatrix, stirred up the requisite buzz. And last night, at the label’s Soho boutique, the wares made their much-anticipated New York debut. Featuring a range of pointy plastic flats and sparkly ice-cream-cone-heeled pumps, all of which are fruit scented, the collection boasted a subversive, but almost silly sex appeal. Naturally, this was only enhanced by Lagerfeld’s snaps, which were displayed at yesterday’s fête. “The shoes are amazing, and they smell so good,” offered Delevingne. “In one of the photos, I’m drinking Champagne out of them, so I got to know them pretty well.”

Since launching over thirty years ago, Melissa has worked with some pretty impressive collaborators—Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, and Jason Wu among them. On hand to discuss the latest joint effort was Melissa’s US CEO, Michele Levy, who noted that Lagerfeld “wanted to capture who we are.” (However, the photo shoot, she affirmed, was “Karl’s touch.”) “We are a Brazilian brand, although we’re in 71 countries, and he wanted to embrace that spirit.” One pair of pumps shown in the colors of the country’s flag was particularly patriotic. Continue Reading “Plastic Fantastic: Melissa + Karl Lagerfeld” »

Mohawked Top to Toe

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Ever since Fendi debuted its multicolored fur Mohawks in Milan, the punked-up coifs have been fanning out all over the Fall runways. But they’re not appearing as you might expect; rather, designers have appropriated the motif and completely turned it on its head. For starters, Fendi’s pastel quiffs got so much attention that one might have missed Lagerfeld’s punchy Mohawked boots and bags. Haider Ackermann put his own spin on the look, sending his models out with white matted hair fashioned into “death hawks” (a style favored by goths). Not surprisingly, the same rebellious tresses popped up in black at Vivienne Westwood, but the Dame of Punk placed her death dos on black platform booties rather than her catwalkers’ noggins. Jean Paul Gaultier experimented with aubergine and bubblegum-highlighted faux-hawk-mullet hybrids at his Fall show, and over at Loewe, Stuart Vevers garnished the heels of his single-soled sandals with exaggerated, razor-sharp black or blonde fringe. Loewe’s shoes were a particularly “uptown” take on the antiestablishment-rooted style (what would the punks of the seventies have said about that?) and reminded us of YSL’s much-snapped suede Mohawk pumps from Fall 2010. Now, don’t shave and dye your hair just yet (or, actually, maybe do), but we’d have to say that the Mohawk, in its many incarnations, is one of Fall’s most prominent (and playful) punk trends so far.

Photos: GoRunway.com

Victoria Grant’s Sweet Treats

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The fusion of fashion and art is a beautiful thing. Just ask London-based milliner Victoria Grant, whose irreverent Spring ’13 collection, a collaboration with British painter Antony Micallef, will feature in an exhibition at London’s HIX Soho next month (the eatery is known for championing artists and has, in the past, displayed works by Andy Warhol, Damien Hirst, and more). Grant, who’s worked with fashion heavyweights like Karl Lagerfeld, Dolce & Gabbana, and Jean Paul Gaultier since launching her line six years ago, explains that her aesthetic is a blend of polished elegance, wicked wit and rock ‘n’ roll taste. This shines through in her Spring collection which, titled Sweet Paris, is, as Grant puts it, a wonderfully twisted play on “childhood, candy-colored fantasy.” An apt description, considering her toppers are printed with Micallef’s images of pastel cigarette boxes, pouty fuchsia lips and open lipstick tubes. She’s even included a bright red lip beret, as well as a pillbox stacked with a pyramid of smokes. “The hats we’ve made are commenting on our own vices,” says Micallef. “They all have a dark sense of humor about them but at the same time, are able to laugh at themselves.” In addition to serving as Grant’s inspiration, the artist worked on five one-off pieces, drizzling them with pink, white, orange, red and green paint that resembles frosting or sugar (a melting ice cream cone beret looks especially scrumptious).

Grant declared that her collaborative creative experience was “electric” and she hopes to keep the sparks flying for Fall ’13. For her new collection, which she’ll show during Paris Fashion Week, Grant has teamed up with stained glass artist John Reyntiens (the same stained glass artist who created a window in Westminster Hall in honor of the Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee). “The new hats may not be particularly functional,” laughs Grant. “But they’ll be wearable. And they’ll be works of art.”

Sweet Paris will be on view at London’s HIX Soho from February 14 through 19. Victoria Grant’s hats are available at Dagny & Barstow in New York, ACT Nightclub in Las Vegas, and at other select international retailers.

Tamy Glauser: Just One of the Guys

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Tamy Glauser is a leader in the new wave of gender-bending models. The 28-year-old Swiss tomboy had a breakout moment today on the Givenchy menswear runway in Paris, where her shaved head, fierce gaze, sharp cheekbones, and lanky frame fit right in with the rest of the guys in the cast (plus several other Riccardo Tisci favorites, including Saskia de Brauw, Jenny Shimizu, and Ashleigh Good). Glauser (left, note the “Garcons” sweater) debuted at the Spring shows, walking in Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier, where they spray-painted her hair red to channel Annie Lennox. “When I went to the [Jean Paul Gaultier] casting, it was two o’clock in the morning. I didn’t have heels, and I didn’t know what the designer looked like, because I didn’t really have anything to do with fashion before. After walking for him, he said he liked my look and told me I got the job,” she told Style.com. Since then, it’s been a whirlwind of change for Glauser, who recently relocated from Zurich to Paris, and just shot a menswear editorial (out this February) alongside fellow androgynous star of the moment, Casey Legler, who is the first female model on Ford’s men’s board.


Before beginning her modeling career, Glauser was paying her bills by working in bars and restaurants, with the occasional acting gig on the side. Earlier this year, she starred in an award-winning music video for popular European dubstep musician Joachim Garraud. Back in 2000, Glauser was an Olympics-bound swimmer on the Swiss National Team (her events were the 400- and 800-meter freestyle), but she decided not to pursue becoming a professional athlete, adding, “Swimmers have the weirdest bodies anyways, and I already don’t like my broad shoulders.” Glauser takes each new chapter of her life in stride, and is fully embracing modeling for the moment. “I like being in front of the camera. It gives me the chance to put my shyness away and be someone else,” she explained. “I don’t have an exact future in mind. In this industry, one day it’s one way and the next day it’s another. I feel like if you expect anything, you might get disappointed, so I try not to have any expectations and just appreciate the present.” Chances are, we’ll be seeing more of Glauser at the Fall shows in February.

Photo: Courtesy of Ford Models Europe