September 2 2014

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2 posts tagged "Jerry Schatzberg"

Paris’ Musée Galliera Gets a New Show, More Dough


Parkinson and Clarke

Olivier Saillard has struck again. For Papier Glacé, the second exhibition he has curated at Paris’ newly renovated Musée Galliera, Saillard riffled through one hundred years of Condé Nast’s photography archives, pulling mainly from a handful of international Vogues (American, British, German, French, and Italian), to spin a selective history of fashion-as-dialogue. The 150-image show scans like a who’s who of 20th-century lensmen: Images by De Meyer, Horst, Clark (above, right), Schatzberg, Penn, Man Ray, Parkinson (above, left), Beaton, Blumenfeld, Lindbergh, Meisel, Turbeville (below), and Weber, among others, feature in the show. The snaps are accompanied by a dozen or so dresses and accessories, such as an evening coat by Doucet (1913), a Mondrian cocktail dress by Yves Saint Laurent (1965), and a red molded bustier on loan from Issey Miyake (1980).

“Fashion-related exhibitions so often tend to run chronologically, looking toward the past,” offered Paris Vogue editor Emmanuelle Alt, “whereas a magazine comes out every month, it’s life, and it’s constantly changing. [With this show] you see what each brings to the other.” Saillard concurred, noting that fashion magazines are akin to archeologists.


For Alt and for Paris Vogue, the eighteen months spent collaborating on Papier Glacé was far from an end in itself. Rather, it marked the beginning of a new chapter for the nearly one hundred-year-old publication, with the establishment of the Vogue Paris Fashion Fund—a new initiative that will allow the Galliera to make new acquisitions, be they photographs, garments, accessories, or beyond. Launched with a contribution of 100,000 euros, the fund will be renewed annually and receive additional backing via fundraising.

When asked for his wish list, Saillard offered names ranging from Margiela to Corinne Day, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Iris van Herpen, and Jurgen Teller. “I am always interested in auteurs. To look at our archives, you’d think that everyone has always worn Balenciaga,” he quipped. “I plan to shop myopically: Sometimes the exceptional can be found in an ‘ordinary’ shirt.”

It’s a fair bet that spending the Galliera’s first windfall won’t be too difficult for Saillard, but new acquisitions will be kept under wraps until July 9, the night of the first Vogue Paris Fashion Fund gala event, during haute couture.

Photos: courtesy of the Musée Galliera

At Waris’ Tea Room, It’s Women Then, Women Way Back Then, And Women Now


“Women know too much, too young, these days,” said photographer and director Jerry Schatzberg as he scanned the well-heeled crowd huddled under the High Line. “They don’t have the chance to grow into it…to become women.” It’s the ladies of years gone by that fill the pages of his new book, Women Then, fêted at Waris Ahluwalia’s pop-up tearoom last night; during the sixties, Schatzberg shot an A-list daisy chain of sirens, including Catherine Deneuve, Faye Dunaway, and Sharon Tate. And whatever he may think about women these days, they think as highly of him as they ever did. When Jen Brill kissed him goodbye, three stunning girls were waiting in the wings for their own turns.

In fact, the House of Waris Tea Room has played host to a variety of sensual guests this week. On Wednesday, Paz de la Huerta (left) was on hand at a Playboy-sponsored salon, reading aloud selections from Madame Bovary. (Her oration was punctuated by a few non-Flaubertian “Shut the fuck up” ‘s to the chatterers in the back.) That was sexiness of a different era. But perhaps the differences between nineteenth-century France, 1960′s America, and present-day beneath the High Line aren’t that great. As Schatzberg mused, “You know, it’s the same thing, only in a different period.” No disagreement from the evening’s host. “This is a subject matter that I very much support,” Ahluwalia said, looking out over the crowd. “Women Then…and now, as a matter of fact.”

Photo: Neil Rasmus / Billy Farrell Agency