83 posts tagged "Jil Sander"
Before Raf Simons was a fashion designer, he was a furniture designer—and also, curiously enough, a ceramics collector. Now, ninety-nine pieces from Simons’ trove of French ceramics dating from the fifties through the seventies are set to go up for auction. This group is the focus of a sale run by the relatively young but influential Paris auction house Piasa. In its sale catalog, Piasa describes five vases by Pol Chambost (above) from the Simons collection as “a perfect fusion between utilitarian objects and works of art.” The works notably informed the designer’s Fall 2009 outing for Jil Sander. “Conveying the curves of his ceramics in fabric was a real challenge,” Simons said of the collection. “Chambost’s work is extremely feminine, and doubtless closer to Dior in a way. People always speak of his ‘floral’ pieces, which, to me, evoke Christian Dior’s Femmes Fleurs.” Other highlights include a biomorphic vase-sculpture by Valentine Schlegel, a group of seven colorful cylinder vases, a coffee table, and Bottle and Apple vases by Georges Jouve. As for why Simons is parting with his ceramic treasures, which he has acquired over the past fifteen years, he offered, “I’m a designer, and for me things are always evolving, and such evolution is necessary. Just because they are being sold does not mean these pieces will be lost, or that I am no longer excited by great French ceramicists. Yes, of course, I’m sorry to see them go. But I’m happy to turn toward different pieces and new horizons.” For a mere 1,000 to 40,000 euros, you too can collect haute pottery when Simons’ ceramics go under the hammer on December 17.
The present, paradoxically enough, is looking good for the cult sunglass brand Retrosuperfuture. The Milanese label, whose sunglasses have long been available at retailers like Barneys and Fred Segal, has a new home: Nearly 2,000 square feet of space on Howard Street, the New York retail power-block that’s recently been undergoing something of a renaissance—again. Still the site of retailers Opening Ceremony, Jil Sander, and Agnes B., and fashion canteen The Smile To Go, a new wave of imports has lately come to roost, including Retrosuperfuture and designer Ariane Goldman’s Hatch pop-up, which is next door.
The new store is the label’s first worldwide, and it bypassed its native city to head to New York. Why? “New York is the hub!” said founder Daniel Beckerman. “Everyone comes to New York.” It certainly seemed that way from the packed friends-and-family preview on Friday night. The store carries the entire collection, ranging from the blocky acetate frames Retrosuperfuture made its name with, to newer, aviator-style models, and a New York-exclusive style, the all-black Novanta.
Retrosuperfuture is open now at 21 Howard Street, NYC, retrosuperfuture.com.
Joseph turned 25 this year (check out the famed Fulham Road store’s celebratory Michael Roberts-designed windows, which went up in September, if you missed them). To mark the quarter-century milestone, the brand will hold its first runway show on London fashion week’s official schedule this February. And for a special twist, Joseph, which was founded by the late, and much adored Joseph Ettedgui (left) has asked its creative director, Louise Trotter, as well as brands like Jil Sander, Balmain, and Giles, to design exclusive pieces, all of which will be on sale the very same day they head down the catwalk. We have to say this is our favorite type of birthday—the kind where everyone can get a present.
The rumor mill is churning again today, with a choice bit of unconfirmed gossip: Wags are wondering if London designer Marios Schwab isn’t lending a hand to the famously anonymous Maison Martin Margiela. Margiela himself exited the company in 2009, and ever since there have been rumors and reports of other designers—most recently former Céline hand Ivana Omazic—guiding the design team. The Margiela team’s only comment was that it does not communicate on who its designers are, and, in the words of WWD, “characterizing its studio as a creative collective with members of long standing that it feeds regularly with new contributors.”
While the impetus to unmask single design geniuses is an understandable one, it may be a model that’s falling out of date. It begs the question: Should we always have one designer to point to, or is a more team-spirited approach the better way? Certainly Margiela has been on an upswing these last few seasons.
The Maison is not alone in adopting, happily, a revolving door mentality. When Christopher Kane left Versus, Donatella Versace opted not to hire a single designer in his place, but to invite a series of guests to try their hands. (First up, J.W. Anderson; second, M.I.A.) And in a recent editorial on the fate of Jil Sander after the departure (again) of Jil Sander, Cathy Horyn wondered aloud if the best practice wouldn’t be to build a strong design team. It’s not hard to imagine that being refreshed with new talent as talent arrives.
Something to think about, as several large houses—from Louis Vuitton to Sander—go, for the moment, without single stewards.
Following her third comeback last year, designer Jil Sander is leaving her namesake brand. Her final collection for the house (which was helmed by Raf Simons from 2005 through 2012) was for Spring ’14. The Jil Sander Group announced today that the Fall ’14 collection will be designed by an in-house team. No word yet on Sander’s successor.