85 posts tagged "Jil Sander"
Twenty-five years after the opening of its flagship on London’s Fulham Road, Joseph is finally staging its first runway presentation on London Fashion Week’s official schedule. Next week’s presentation just one component of the quarter-century birthday celebration—another crucial part is the launch of a capsule collection that fetes all things Joseph. With contributions from six designers, the range will be available at the Fulham Road store starting February 15.
Balmain, Jil Sander, Giles Deacon, Jonathan Saunders, Rupert Sanderson, and Joseph creative director Louise Trotter all hit the drawing board to create limited-edition pieces, which debut exclusively here. “We wanted to focus on designers both past and present that reflect the Joseph ethos,” Trotter said, explaining how the company whittled down the list to six, she included. “Everyone was thrilled to be asked, and thankfully most people could make the time!”
The designers also fell into line when it came to conveying the ethos of the brand. “The guiding spirit behind each piece came from the Joseph DNA: black and white. My idea of the leather tote began with one of our most iconic pieces—the stripe carrier bag,” explained Trotter. Also included in the mix are a black-and-white dress from Jonathan Saunders, a crisp white clutch from Jil Sander, and a roaring lion’s head from Balmain.
Fashion is a notoriously unforgiving business—consider each fashion year like a dog year, so for Joseph to hit twenty-five is a watershed moment that few retailers have achieved. How does Trotter account for the popularity, never mind longevity, of the brand, given the crowded retail market? “Joseph [Ettedgui, the founder] himself was a curator of new talent. His taste and spirit are still evident in the combination of designers we offer and the unique way we buy and showcase our collections,” she said of the vision of the charismatic Ettedgui, who died in 2010. “The basic principles that Joseph set out from the beginning, which are the perfect wardrobe essentials translated into luxury fabrics, is still as relevant today as when he started. We have tried to stay true to his philosophy whilst looking forward.”
The fashion biz has had quite a year. 2013 was jam-packed with major designer shake-ups, groundbreaking ad campaigns, celebrity collaborations, and pop-star performance wardrobes filled with custom-made designer duds. In the final days leading up to 2014, we’re counting down Style File’s most popular twenty stories of the past year. So sit back, relax, and relive 2013′s unforgettable moments. Read numbers ten through six, below.
10. Raf Simons Opens His Atelier—and Shares His Label—to Artist Sterling Ruby for the Most Complete Designer/Artist Collaboration Yet
When Raf Simons does something, he does it all the way. Case in point, his Fall ’14 menswear collaboration. For his upcoming collection, which will hit the Paris catwalk on January 15, Simons has handed his atelier over to artist Sterling Ruby. The result will no doubt be the most extreme art-meets-fashion experiment to date. Style.com’s Tim Blanks spoke to Simons about his latest artistic endeavor.
9. At Givenchy, Flower Power, Military Might, and Even a Cameo From Bambi
In May, Style.com got an exclusive first look at Riccardo Tisci’s floral and camo Pre-Spring ’14 menswear collection for Givenchy. Showcased on fuchsia-haired models, the collection marked the debut of Tisci’s controversial Favelas 74 shirt, which was later worn by Marina Abramovic to the CFDA Awards in June. Matthew Schneier gave us a rundown of the dynamic lineup.
8. Inside David Bowie’s “The Stars (Are Out Tonight)”
David Bowie had no shortage of headlines in 2013. In May, the rock star dropped The Next Day, his first album in ten years. His costumes were featured in an exhibition at the V&A, he starred alongside Arizona Muse in a Louis Vuitton campaign, and he was even named the best-dressed Briton in all of history. But his buzziest accomplishment was no doubt the music video for “The Stars (Are Out Tonight).” With a cast that included Tilda Swinton (a.k.a. David’s doppelgänger), Saskia de Brauw, and Andrej Pejic, the Jerry Stafford-styled film featured clothes from Alexander McQueen, Lanvin, Rick Owens, Raf Simons (both for Dior and Jil Sander), and Saint Laurent. Style.com’s Tim Blanks took us inside the making of the music vid and walked us through its lust-worthy wardrobe.
7. “Applause,” Please: Brandon Maxwell Talks Styling Lady Gaga’s Latest Video
Remember that time in 2013 when Lady Gaga announced her new record, Artpop, and from the moment she revealed its Inez & Vinoodh-lensed album cover in July, until she hosted her raucous Art Rave release party in November, she was all anyone could talk about? Well, during the height of the Mother Monster frenzy, right after she debuted her flick for “Applause,” Style.com’s Katharine K. Zarrella spoke with her stylist, Brandon Maxwell, about the characteristically outré vintage and custom looks she donned in the music video.
6. Jeremy Scott: The New Man at Moschino
After celebrating its thirtieth anniversary in Milan, in September, Moschino appointed Jeremy Scott as its creative director. Scott, who succeeds Rossella Jardini, spoke to Style.com’s Nicole Phelps about the new gig, poking fun at fashion and sharing how he plans to bring the irreverent house into the future.
Before Raf Simons was a fashion designer, he was a furniture designer—and also, curiously enough, a ceramics collector. Now, ninety-nine pieces from Simons’ trove of French ceramics dating from the fifties through the seventies are set to go up for auction. This group is the focus of a sale run by the relatively young but influential Paris auction house Piasa. In its sale catalog, Piasa describes five vases by Pol Chambost (above) from the Simons collection as “a perfect fusion between utilitarian objects and works of art.” The works notably informed the designer’s Fall 2009 outing for Jil Sander. “Conveying the curves of his ceramics in fabric was a real challenge,” Simons said of the collection. “Chambost’s work is extremely feminine, and doubtless closer to Dior in a way. People always speak of his ‘floral’ pieces, which, to me, evoke Christian Dior’s Femmes Fleurs.” Other highlights include a biomorphic vase-sculpture by Valentine Schlegel, a group of seven colorful cylinder vases, a coffee table, and Bottle and Apple vases by Georges Jouve. As for why Simons is parting with his ceramic treasures, which he has acquired over the past fifteen years, he offered, “I’m a designer, and for me things are always evolving, and such evolution is necessary. Just because they are being sold does not mean these pieces will be lost, or that I am no longer excited by great French ceramicists. Yes, of course, I’m sorry to see them go. But I’m happy to turn toward different pieces and new horizons.” For a mere 1,000 to 40,000 euros, you too can collect haute pottery when Simons’ ceramics go under the hammer on December 17.
The present, paradoxically enough, is looking good for the cult sunglass brand Retrosuperfuture. The Milanese label, whose sunglasses have long been available at retailers like Barneys and Fred Segal, has a new home: Nearly 2,000 square feet of space on Howard Street, the New York retail power-block that’s recently been undergoing something of a renaissance—again. Still the site of retailers Opening Ceremony, Jil Sander, and Agnes B., and fashion canteen The Smile To Go, a new wave of imports has lately come to roost, including Retrosuperfuture and designer Ariane Goldman’s Hatch pop-up, which is next door.
The new store is the label’s first worldwide, and it bypassed its native city to head to New York. Why? “New York is the hub!” said founder Daniel Beckerman. “Everyone comes to New York.” It certainly seemed that way from the packed friends-and-family preview on Friday night. The store carries the entire collection, ranging from the blocky acetate frames Retrosuperfuture made its name with, to newer, aviator-style models, and a New York-exclusive style, the all-black Novanta.
Retrosuperfuture is open now at 21 Howard Street, NYC, retrosuperfuture.com.
Joseph turned 25 this year (check out the famed Fulham Road store’s celebratory Michael Roberts-designed windows, which went up in September, if you missed them). To mark the quarter-century milestone, the brand will hold its first runway show on London fashion week’s official schedule this February. And for a special twist, Joseph, which was founded by the late, and much adored Joseph Ettedgui (left) has asked its creative director, Louise Trotter, as well as brands like Jil Sander, Balmain, and Giles, to design exclusive pieces, all of which will be on sale the very same day they head down the catwalk. We have to say this is our favorite type of birthday—the kind where everyone can get a present.