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April 19 2014

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85 posts tagged "Jil Sander"

Inside David Bowie’s “The Stars (Are Out Tonight)”

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Out of the mystic comes “The Stars (Are Out Tonight),” a new Bowie video. This one is a lot less oblique than the video that artist Tony Oursler made for “Where Are We Now?,” the first single from Bowie’s startling comeback album, and that’s mostly because director Floria Sigismondi’s natural genius with a twisted narrative (case in point: Marilyn Manson’s “The Beautiful People” promo) gels so well with what one imagines is Bowie’s own predilection for the cinematically perverse. “The Stars” sumptuously elevates the man and the myth to new heights.

This particular offering toys with the androgyny, the bravado, the decadence, the desire that turns an ordinary human being into a raving fan. It also has a strong contemporary-fashion quotient, appropriate given that Bowie was, in a way that the upcoming exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum will surely clarify, always inclined to the fashion experiment—from the early days of his Kansai jumpsuits to McQueen frock coats and Hedi Slimane suits.

Stylist Jerry Stafford was responsible for dressing the cast of five for the two-day shoot in L.A.: models Saskia de Brauw, Andrej Pejic, and Iselin Steiro, plus Bowie himself and his co-star Tilda Swinton, with whom Stafford has worked for fifteen years. Stafford is, like me, a child of Bowie, but he says there was no time on the set for fandom. “Everyone understood they were part of something special.” There was one moment when Stafford presented Bowie with a long coat, explaining to him it was by a designer named Rick Owens. “More Rick Wakeman than Rick Owens,” was the response, Wakeman being the wizard-coat-wearing keyboard king of Brit prog rock. “He played piano on ‘Life on Mars?,’ ” chimed in Stafford, the sole moment when he let himself indulge his know-every-last-detail trainspotter obsession. “And, indeed, on the whole of Hunky Dory,” Bowie said with a knowing smile. Continue Reading “Inside David Bowie’s “The Stars (Are Out Tonight)”” »

Modelizing Milan

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Milan is notoriously regarded as a difficult city for new models. But it’s not hard to see why big-name labels like Versace and Gucci prefer to cast established catwalkers like Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, and Karmen Pedaru: Veterans simply know how to carry sexy clothes. That said, many of the rookies we’ve had our eyes on since the beginning of the season have proven that they can strut toe-to-toe with the big girls. Chiharu Okunugi, Sam Rollinson, Sasha Luss, and Katya Riabinkina, in particular, seem to be at the top of most casting directors’ lists this season. We’re also going to add Manuela Frey, a Spring ’13 Saint Laurent exclusive who opened Calvin Klein in New York and did turns at Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, and Emilio Pucci in Italy. She’s kept up the momentum so far in Paris, with appearances at Dries Van Noten, Rochas, and Damir Doma.

Perhaps the best way to evaluate Milan’s crop of newcomers is to compare two of the week’s most hyped shows: Prada, which is cast by Ashley Brokaw, and Jil Sander, which is cast by Maida & Rami. Both are characteristically chock-full of unknowns, but there was more of an overlap than usual this season. Girls who walked both include past Balenciaga exclusives Juliane Gruner and Kirstin Kragh Liljegren (who actually opened Balenciaga last season). At Prada, they were sandwiched in between well-known faces such as Mariacarla Boscono, Liisa Winkler, Adriana Lima, Kirsten Owen, Jessica Stam, Iselin Steiro, and Esther de Jong (easily one of our favorite casts thus far), as well as a few more novices like Maartje Verhoef (above, left), Elise Smidt, and Jessa Brown, who also did Sander. As we move into the Paris shows, we’ll have our eyes peeled for these girls and a few others, including Amanda Murphy (above, right), who bookended Prada after opening Proenza Schouler, and then followed that up with appearances at Dries Van Noten and H&M today.

Speaking of, H&M turned out a cast of heavy hitters (you can chalk that up to a mega-budget and George Cortina’s styling), including Arizona Muse, Cara Delevingne, Daphne Groeneveld, Delfine Bafort, Edita Vilkeviciute, Isabeli Fontana, Joan Smalls, and closer Malgosia Bela.

Get The Look: It’s A Wrap

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The winter conundrum: Keep warm or keep chic. Cold-weather-proof clothing is often the antithesis of fashionable, but December through March is not a lost cause. Take a cue from models-off-duty Frida Gustavsson and Jacquelyn Jablonski, who added a little something extra to their look with colorful printed scarves. Get their look with four of our favorite pieces from Isabel Marant, Givenchy, Jil Sander, and more, below.


From left, above:
1. Isabel Marant scarf, $280, available at www.netaporter.com
2. Jil Sander scarf, $282, available at www.mytheresa.com
3. Julien David scarf, $305, available at www.farfetch.com
4. Givenchy scarf, $680, available at www.barneys.com

Photo: Vanessa Jackman

Designers Wipe The Slate Clean For Spring

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“Reset to Zero,” claimed the notes at Jil Sander’s comeback show. It could’ve been the rallying cry for the whole Spring season. Sander’s new minimalism is different—softer, at first glance, and slightly more accessible—than the clinical aesthetic she pioneered two decades ago. Still, we expected simplicity from the Queen of Clean. It was the pared-down approach of other designers that caught us off guard. Giambattista Valli, who just a few months ago was embellishing couture veils with butterflies, traded in furbelows for crisp tailoring, and Consuelo Castiglioni swapped Marni’s signature quirky prints for a streamlined monochrome palette (pictured). “More clean, more fresh, more light,” she told Style.com’s reporter Tim Blanks. In all three cases, she was right.

CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of other minimal moments from Spring 2013.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos/ GoRunway.com

Get The Look: Fully Prepped

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It’s no secret that fashion month is the time to bring out your statement pieces, and Jil Sander’s Faith clutch definitely fits the bill. Tommy Ton snapped a stylish showgoer walking in the Tuileries with her equally chic friend. We love how she paired the clutch with a preppy outfit complete with a pink monogram sweater (you saw them here first), a striped button-down, and forest green cropped trousers. Get the look with the essentials below.

From top left to right: Marni sweater, $640, available at www.marni.com; Jil Sander clutch, $700, available at www.netaporter.com; Etro trouser, $440, available at www.mytheresa.com; J.Crew shirt, $75, available at www.jcrew.com.

Photos: Tommy Ton; Courtesy Photos