32 posts tagged "Joan Smalls"
At this time last year, designers were busy making knee-length Bermudas and basketball shorts. This Resort season, they took things one step further, lowering hemlines on baggy, culotte-inspired trousers so they hit somewhere between mid-calf and just above the ankle. We noticed crisp white styles in the new lineups from Thakoon Addition, Ports 1961, Adam Lippes, and Sonia Rykiel (the latter two whipped them up in pliant leather and pleather, respectively). And while labels like Valentino and Roksanda Ilincic, among others, showed the fresh silhouette in a casual context, Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci made them evening-appropriate in black satin paired with a pair of killer ankle-strap sandals. Unless you’ve got stems like Joan Smalls’, we’d recommend rocking heels while test-driving this trend.
Only a year after Hugo Boss brought another dimension to Beijing with its first China runway show streamed in 3-D, it was time to woo Shanghai. This time, though, Boss made its introduction with an IRL catwalk show.
The setting of the Power Station of Art was an inspired choice. Electric charges pulsated through the thousand-strong audience, and lightning bolts crashed overhead while models—like show opener Joan Smalls—stomped across the zigzagged runway in Boss’ Fall ’13 wares.
“We’ve been in China for a long time,” said Boss menswear designer Kevin Lobo. “But it’s changing dramatically, becoming more luxurious, and we want to be a part of that.”
Limited-edition pieces were available to buy directly from the runway. The stringent tailoring and languid silks in jewel tones were perfectly attuned to the tastes of China’s über-wealthy, who are trading obvious luxury for something more subtle. Boss womenswear designer Eyan Allen offered, “We created a zip made from 24-carat gold. You know it’s there, but nobody else does!”
Carey Mulligan and Gerard Butler both turned up for the lavish affair, and Hong Kong actors Chow Yun-Fat and Cherie Chung, as well as Chinese heartthrob Xiaoming Huang and Korean actor Sang-Woo Kwon, had the local crowd in an uproar. Meanwhile, China Chow began coveting a navy fur jacket the second it hit the runway. “I want that!” she cried.
Every year, the crème de la crème of the film industry get glammed up to hobnob and vamp for the paparazzi at the Cannes Film Festival. While A-listers such as Jessica Chastain, Nicole Kidman, Marion Cotillard, Carey Mulligan, and Zoe Saldana have made an impressive showing thus far, they’ve arguably been eclipsed by the contingent of top-tier catwalkers who have flocked to the red carpets en masse. Yesterday, in particular, was a model-watcher’s paradise, with the likes of Joan Smalls, Petra Nemcova, Barbara Palvin, Chanel Iman, Jessica Hart, and Erin Heatherton posing for the cameras like the pros that they are. Milla Jovovich, Liya Kebede, and Doutzen Kroes were snapped multiple times earlier in the week, and Yasmin Warsame and Irina Lazareanu made some memorable cameos, too. Presumably, even more runway regulars will turn up at the amfAR blowout on Thursday—we’ve got it on authority that Liu Wen and Karolina Kurkova are already in town. Sorry, starlets. When it comes to posing and strutting in borrowed gowns, models simply do it best.
Milan is notoriously regarded as a difficult city for new models. But it’s not hard to see why big-name labels like Versace and Gucci prefer to cast established catwalkers like Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, and Karmen Pedaru: Veterans simply know how to carry sexy clothes. That said, many of the rookies we’ve had our eyes on since the beginning of the season have proven that they can strut toe-to-toe with the big girls. Chiharu Okunugi, Sam Rollinson, Sasha Luss, and Katya Riabinkina, in particular, seem to be at the top of most casting directors’ lists this season. We’re also going to add Manuela Frey, a Spring ’13 Saint Laurent exclusive who opened Calvin Klein in New York and did turns at Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, and Emilio Pucci in Italy. She’s kept up the momentum so far in Paris, with appearances at Dries Van Noten, Rochas, and Damir Doma.
Perhaps the best way to evaluate Milan’s crop of newcomers is to compare two of the week’s most hyped shows: Prada, which is cast by Ashley Brokaw, and Jil Sander, which is cast by Maida & Rami. Both are characteristically chock-full of unknowns, but there was more of an overlap than usual this season. Girls who walked both include past Balenciaga exclusives Juliane Gruner and Kirstin Kragh Liljegren (who actually opened Balenciaga last season). At Prada, they were sandwiched in between well-known faces such as Mariacarla Boscono, Liisa Winkler, Adriana Lima, Kirsten Owen, Jessica Stam, Iselin Steiro, and Esther de Jong (easily one of our favorite casts thus far), as well as a few more novices like Maartje Verhoef (above, left), Elise Smidt, and Jessa Brown, who also did Sander. As we move into the Paris shows, we’ll have our eyes peeled for these girls and a few others, including Amanda Murphy (above, right), who bookended Prada after opening Proenza Schouler, and then followed that up with appearances at Dries Van Noten and H&M today.
Speaking of, H&M turned out a cast of heavy hitters (you can chalk that up to a mega-budget and George Cortina’s styling), including Arizona Muse, Cara Delevingne, Daphne Groeneveld, Delfine Bafort, Edita Vilkeviciute, Isabeli Fontana, Joan Smalls, and closer Malgosia Bela.
Question: Where do models go during NYFW when they’re not stomping the catwalk? Answer: Modellounge x Microsoft. When the shows come to town, fashion’s leading ladies have to zip around from one runway, casting, or fitting to the next. But for those odd momenta of downtime, Modellounge x Microsoft offers girls from the top ten agencies a place to relax and regroup. This season, more than 400 models—ranging from newcomers like Natasha Remarchuk and Leona “Binx” Walton to established girls like Arizona Muse, Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, and Liu Wen—stopped by Modellounge each day. In addition to offering snacks and free Wi-Fi (plus access to Surface tablets), the Union Square-based lounge hosted a bevy of events, like a panel discussion with casting director Jennifer Starr, a runway-walking class, and a talk with Coco Rocha about the importance of social media and self-branding. The veritable model haven even provided catwalkers with backup wardrobes; founder Bernard Smith (who also happens to be Joan Smalls’s long-term boyfriend) partnered up with Helmut Lang to create a Model Closet from which girls could borrow clothes for go-sees, street-style looks, and events. He described one afternoon when Ms. Rocha made a pit stop with actress Isabelle Fuhrman: “They were running late for a show, and Isabelle needed something chic to wear last-minute, so we let Coco style her with the clothes—the perks of having model friends.”