6 posts tagged "John Bartlett"
Steven Kolb was at breakfast this morning at the place he called “the best store in the city”: ABC Carpet and Home. As of now, the furniture and housewares landmark will offer a curated selection of sustainable pieces by CFDA designers, including those who have won the annual CFDA/Lexus Eco-Fashion Challenge, which awards $25,000 prizes to selected designers whose businesses are at least 30 percent sustainable. “Fashion is about change, and these designers are at the forefront of this idea that eco-fashion doesn’t have to be branded independently,” Kolb said today, toasting the 2011 and 2012 winners: Marcia Patmos, John Bartlett, Johnson Hartig of Libertine, Pamela Love, Melissa Joy Manning, and Victoria Bartlett of VPL. Their collections were on display alongside those of Diane von Furstenberg, Donna Karan, and Loomstate’s Rogan Gregory and Scott Mackinlay Hahn.
Sustainability tends to flow in and out of the fashion conversation—”People don’t realize that we manufacture in New York City with stones that are sourced ethically, because it’s not really part of our branding,” Love said, “but I started my jewelry line in my house in Brooklyn because I didn’t realize there was any other way to do things”—but the CFDA is hoping to bring it to the fore. For that, Patmos said, “The shop is really great because it makes the whole thing tangible.” She was so excited at winning the award, she added, that she’d wanted to jump up and down. “But I was at my desk when Steven called me with the news, so I had to contain myself.”
John Bartlett has spent years steadfastly, studiously making clothes for regular-size guys. His masculine, finely tailored suits and classic sportswear separates have always been pegged to thick-trunked, made-in-the-U.S.A. Joes, not the whippet-thin Matveys or Jakobs of the world. Bartlett’s not above a flight of fancy now and again—a djellaba thrown in for good measure—but it’s the standards that are the designer’s meat and potatoes. And they’re cut and sewn for men with an appetite for both.
For Fall, the menswear stays that course, this time with a seventies Euro vibe Bartlett says was inspired by D. H. Lawrence. When it works, it feels gentlemanly and aristocratic; when it doesn’t, as with some strange buttoned britches, it feels a little German backpacker. And for womenswear, an arena to which Bartlett is returning for the first time in years, the look was…well, much the same. The styles borrow heavily from the guys’, and some of Bartlett’s chosen silhouettes even look better on the ladies than the gents. Snug blazers and vests, thick woolen pants—they’re not glamorous, per se, but you could see a gal wearing them. And you wanted to applaud when Bartlett sent out female counterparts to his bigger, brawnier men: It’s a good thing to remember at a fashion show that there are women older than 17, waist sizes thicker than 23 inches. The return of the nineties CK star Jenny Shimizu was an especially nice touch. Very likely, these fuller-figured ladies are Bartlett’s customers-to-be, and they should find much to suit them among his belted blazers and color-blocked knits. But tread carefully. There are shapes more flattering to the young, and despite the old saying, where leather pants are concerned, it’s beauty before age.
After several years concentrating on the men’s market, John Bartlett will once again design womenswear, putting a few women’s looks into his men’s show in New York next month. (A few sketches are pictured, left.) The looks will be inspired by “strong women,” including, in particular, Russian Constructivist artists Lyubov Popova and Varvara Stepanova. Smart move, John: design for where the money is. [WWD]
First images of Zac Posen’s line for Target have hit the Web. What to expect? Flirty dresses, two maillots, one office-ready suit, and madcap rioting at your local Target store come April 25 to get to ‘em. [Fashionista]
Annie Leibovitz has settled the suit brought against her by an Italian photographer who claimed that the beleaguered lenswoman passed off his work as her own. She’s still got 99 problems, of course, but an Italian litigant ain’t one. [Page Six]
In international relations, an Israeli general is claiming that Bar Refaeli shirked her requisite army service. In Refaeli’s defense, we imagine all of her swimsuit and Victoria’s Secret shots have amply and patriotically served the men of the Israeli army for years. [NY Post]
Mystique in fashion? So last season. Exposure is in (hello, no pants) and exclusivity is out. Tweet, shop, dress, and DIY accordingly. [WWD]
Marc Jacobs’ take on fashion’s lack of intrigue? Stop being nostalgic: “It’s just better to accept things for what they are and enjoy them.” [WWD]
After Liz Claiborne’s decision to sell exclusively at JCPenney, John Bartlett has decided to leave the company. Look for him and Cintra Wilson shopping elsewhere together. [WWD]
German mag Brigitte‘s plan to use only real women as models elicited the following from Karl Lagerfeld: “No one wants to see curvy women.” The charm and tact just ooze, right? [Wa Today]
Archs sans Lohan? Slightly improved. [The Cut]
Trovata: settled. [WWD]
Yohji: saved. [WWD]