82 posts tagged "John Galliano"
Few designers can list the struggling metropolis that is Detroit among their muses. Vicki Sarge is one of them. “You can take the girl out of Detroit, but you can’t take Detroit out of the girl!” quipped the jewelry designer, a Motown native, by phone. Though she decamped to London circa 1985 (and to New York before that), Sarge spoke to us during a recent visit to her mother’s Detroit abode. “I never wanted to live here,” she admitted. “But the amazing roots that I have here from my youth have stayed with me the whole time.”
While you may not know her name, you’ve most certainly seen the over-the-top, often dark-tinged baubles Sarge designed during her nearly 40-year tenure at celebrated bijoux brand Erickson Beamon. Together with her co-founders, Karen and Erik Erickson and Eric Beamon, Sarge adorned countless celebrities (Madonna, Beyoncé, Kate Moss, and Lady Gaga among them), collaborated with a bevy of designers (like John Galliano and Dries Van Noten), and transformed “costume jewelry” from a dirty secret to a coveted accoutrement.
But four decades in the same gig is a long time—especially for someone like Sarge, whose colorful path to accessories stardom included a job as the coat-check girl at New York’s Mudd Club (Keith Haring was the creative director at the time), spells as a regular at both Studio 54 and London’s Taboo, and a stint working in the Jim Henson Company creative department, where she got to do some “Muppet stuff.” So last year Sarge struck out on her own to begin a new chapter.
The resulting collection of costume jewelry is an intriguing fusion of the designer’s tongue-in-cheek approach to opulence, and her memories of the Motor City. “In the sixties and seventies, Detroit was a really great rock ‘n’ roll place,” Sarge recalled. She credits Iggy and the Stooges—who used to play at her high school dances—with making it as such. “My girlfriend had sex with Iggy after a concert once,” she mentioned casually. “But the music was just this raw sound that could only come out of Detroit. It was really great.”
Sarge explained that the “cool casualness,” and rocker vibe of her line—now in its second season—come from her hometown. But what about Fall 2014′s vibrant red flowers, shimmering crystals, and tribal ear cuffs? “Well, there are glam-rock bits there, too,” Sarge conceded. Surely her wilder days in Eighties London, during which she partied with John Galliano and her close friend Stephen Jones, have wiggled their way into her subconscious, too. “But it all comes from my soul, so it’s authentic me: bold, clean, beautiful, and a little edgy.”
In addition to Sarge’s sophomore solo effort (above), which made its debut during London fashion week, the designer crafted jewelry for Erdem’s Fall show and is working on an upcoming project with hairstylist Sam McKnight. She also hints that a second store (her first is on London’s Elizabeth Street) might be on the horizon. As far as stateside stockists go, the collection was picked up by Net-a-Porter right off the bat (it should be mentioned that Sarge also worked with Mario Testino on his Peruvian capsule for the e-tailer), but the designer hasn’t officially introduced her range to the U.S. market. That unveiling is reserved for a forthcoming spring event with Birmingham, Mich.-based retailer Linda Dresner and the Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit. “Detroit has given me a hell of a lot—at the very least, my attitude comes from Detroit—and I want to give something back,” offered Sarge. What’s more is that a few of her fancy London friends might tag along for the party. “Stephen’s always telling me he wants to come to Detroit,” she said. Looks like the hatter finally has a good excuse to make the trip.
Anyone who follows fashion news was well aware that yesterday was Kate Moss’ 40th birthday. Naturally, the super was sent a garden’s worth of flowers, hoards of neatly wrapped packages from all her favorite designers, and an alleged 1970s Porsche from Topshop’s Sir Philip Green. As for her party, that took the form of a boozy, two-hour lunch at London’s posh 34 restaurant. And while guests like Naomi Campbell, John Galliano, Mario Testino, and Stella McCartney supposedly racked up a casual 5,000-pound bill, the Telegraph writes that the crew ordered nothing but appetizers, champagne, and cocktails. Considering they were feting the woman responsible for the phrase, “Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels,” we’re not terribly surprised by the menu. What’s more is Moss’ latest reported sound bite: Post-party, she’s said to have quipped, “I may be 40, but I still know how to party.”
Over the past sixty-plus years, Façonnable has established itself as a brand that captures the essence of the Côte d’Azur lifestyle (think: a round of tennis followed by an afternoon spent sailing off the coast of Monaco). Best known for its classic men’s suits and signature sporty staples, such as polo shirts and chinos, the label is repositioning itself and reviving its womenswear program for Fall ’14 with the help of its new artistic director, Daniel Kearns. Before taking the helm at Façonnable, Kearns served as the design director of menswear for Yves Saint Laurent under Stefano Pilati, and also worked at Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, and John Galliano. With this proven prowess in masculine tailoring, he rose to the challenge of creating his first women’s collection. “This is the first time I have mixed both tailoring and flow. Womenswear needs a more sensitive approach and is another mind-set,” he told Style.com.
For his debut ladies’ lineup, Kearns kept the look elegant and understated (for the most part), whipping up sharp tuxedos, slim sheaths, and plush outerwear. His looks feature subtle accents that recall Façonnable’s heritage, such as braided trims and belts (a nod to the brand’s nautical roots). With an eye on the modern customer, he added several pieces that felt a bit more fashion-forward, including novelty bomber jackets and a metallic rose-gold pencil skirt. Another major development here was the reintroduction of eveningwear, which plays an important role in Façonnable’s history. When Jean Goldberg founded the label, in 1950, many actresses sought him out for gowns to wear to the Cannes Film Festival. With that in mind, Kearns showed a handful of beautiful, body-skimming column dresses with capelet details in back—the style in crimson-hued silk was a particular standout. “When you think of the French Riviera, you think of Cannes and women like Romy Schneider and Grace Kelly in Monte Carlo, as well as the photography of Helmut Newton and all the artists who retreated here for inspiration,” he explained. Altogether, Kearns’ impressive first foray into womenswear (in addition to new advertising campaigns, updated branding, and refurbished stores) suggests a bright new future for Façonnable.
Façonnable’s Fall ’14 womenswear lookbook, which was shot at the historic Cap Estel hotel, debuts here, exclusively on Style.com.
He’s back! Kind of. After months of rumors, WWD reports that John Galliano is slated to design the costumes for Stephen Fry’s forthcoming London production of The Importance of Being Earnest. Given his flare for theatrics, and the fact that he created onstage wares for the same play back in 1982, we’d say the designer is more than qualified for the job. Galliano is also apparently still in talks with Oscar de la Renta about assuming a more permanent role at the company. “I love John. He is a great talent,” de la Renta said.