78 posts tagged "John Galliano"
Why: The Guardian has an interview with master hatmaker Stephen Jones today, who, besides providing headgear for Rei Kawakubo and John Galliano, has outfitted plenty a posh head in his day—Gwen Stefani, Beyoncé Knowles, Dita Von Teese, etc. The accompanying DIY video got us thinking: Why should good millinery be the first thing to go in a down economy? We can’t think of anything more uplifting than a beau chapeau. And plus, did you see the fringe on this thing?
Where: At the bodega nearest you.
How: Watch the clip.
When I took my seat at Gareth Pugh’s show, his menswear debut and the finale of the week, my mind suddenly raced back to when another British designer made his first steps into menswear. Due no doubt to some seating snafu, I was in the front row of John Galliano’s first-ever menswear show for his eponymous label in 2004. It was the one where a crew of the most major male models came out greased up and writhed around on the front row, old bed frames, wood boxes, and whatever other prop could be found on the runway. It was decadence and ecstasy and camp. It was very Galliano. But it was one of those fashion moments when you wouldn’t have expected anything less from a designer for his menswear debut. Pugh’s first ever men’s show, staged around a mobile of smashed glass, was equivalent. But it wasn’t because the male models engaged with the audience (at Galliano, Tony Ward asked me for a light as he cruised down the runway), but because of Pugh’s unwavering dedication to his aesthetic. The dark and heavily made-up boys stomped out in patent patchwork trenchcoats with the stiffest and highest of shoulders, the tightest of pants, and the toughest of combat boots. Many of the last looks were crafted from nail-pierced leather. It was a sci-fi journey into another world, where only the likes of Terence Koh and performance artist Casey Spooner could fit in. (I could hear them “ooh” and “aah” over each look, mentally planning personal orders.) Sure, very few people will dare to wear it, but then, I haven’t seen too many guys in the shredded booty shorts on that Galliano runway either. Later, at a dinner for Kim Jones’ own impressive debut at Dunhill, after the oft-inebriated Lily Allen toasted the designer, I got a bit of my own gossip: Many claim wearability wasn’t a factor in the least, but that this show was Pugh’s audition for LVMH (some say in the Dior Homme post currently occupied by Kris Van Assche). And the Galliano connection only deepens. (For complete coverage of the menswear collections, go to men.style.com.)
John Galliano gets the royal treatment. While you were sleeping off your hangover, the designer was appointed a chevalier of the French Legion of Honor, and probably designing some killer haute couture.
Ecco Domani announced 2009′s first fashion winners, awarding, among others, Lyn Devon, Cushnie et Ochs, and Ohne Titel handy $25,000 grants for their Fall collections. The five-year-or-younger brands are in good company: past winners include Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, and Alexander Wang.
If you need a refresher course on Jane Birkin’s offspring (and who doesn’t, from time to time?), read up here
Alexander Wang, Vena Cava, and Albertus Swanepoel nabbed the three prizes last night at the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards, but the evening also featured a couple of prevalent looks, which we’d like to think of as winners in their own right. The first is the pant—particularly one that’s carrot-shaped and cropped—a trend which reached critical mass at the Spring collections in various forms. The covered-leg crew included Juliette Lewis in a sequined Phillip Lim jumpsuit, Chanel Iman in Daughters gray flannel, Agyness Deyn in a boyish tux, Liya Kebede in Proenza Schouler, Jessica Joffe in Helmut Lang, and Thelma Golden and Rachel Roy. With Swanepoel as a clearly worthy contender, it’s logical that millinery would also make a strong showing. Of course there was the designer’s own date, Coco Rocha, but joining her were Julie Gilhart in a jaunty mini top hat by Eugenia Kim, John Galliano in a daisy-strewn top hat, Deyn in a flattened boater from Marc Jacobs’ Spring show, and André Leon Talley in what looks like a very stylish evening hunting cap. Honorable mention goes to the one-shoulder dress, seen on Vogue‘s Meredith Melling Burke (in Peter Som) and Virginia Smith, and Style.com’s Candy Pratts Price, in Givenchy.