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August 23 2014

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89 posts tagged "John Galliano"

Paris Menswear: The Case Of The Double Gallianos

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Last week in Milan, John Galliano made a splash with a slightly unhinged party that launched his second line of menswear, a distillation of all the rakish, rebel elements that characterize his main collection for men. It was so true to the spirit of its parent that there were plenty of industry folk who wondered how Galliano could keep the two lines separate enough in the eyes of stores and customers to justify their co-existence. Well, wonder no more. If price is a key factor in the second line (called, simply, “Galliano”), the designer made it crystal-clear that his main line will always be about money-no-object creativity. His new collection took Sherlock Holmes as its starting point. Wise move, because it meant the opening passage was all about tailoring, and no one doubts Galliano’s genius in that department, especially when it involves the period flavour of high-buttoning, double-breasted pinstripes. (You want a suit? This is the traditional quintessence of the notion.) Then the designer popped open the Sherlock Holmes case-book for a look at the detective’s criminal competition, which was really just an excuse for a parade of Galliano’s signature exotics. Some were wearing highly styled versions of his under- and swim-wear, others were swathed in spectacular silk lounging wear (with trailing Fu Manchu pigtails). Does it bear repeating one more time that there were attractive wearable items of clothing embedded in this entertaining, distracting mise-en-scene? What really came across was that everything looked expensive which, at the very least, makes for a significant point of departure from the new secondary line.

Photo: Andrew Thomas

Blasblog: Moss, Gainsbourg To Bring Party Spirit To Couture

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The lull is almost over, party animals. Mid-January can feel like a bit of a social hiccup—men’s shows aside, there are always a sleepy few weeks between the mayhem of the holiday and the revving up of spring—but that will come to a definite end on Monday when the haute couture shows in Paris begin. A few weeks ago, when I was planning my couture schedule, I wasn’t sure if I looking at much more than a handful of shows and a few meals alone at Café de Flore. This will be the first season with Christian Lacroix off the schedule, which puts the number of impressive shows at not much more than half a dozen, and until recently, it didn’t seem that in this economy anyone had the budget to do a party.

I shouldn’t have worried. As I sit here stuffing my new Tumi duffel bag, I’m looking at quite an impressive week. The drama’s already under way (Giorgio Armani accommodated John Galliano’s requests for a schedule change, albeit not quietly), and more’s to come. On Monday, Balmain is hosting a cocktail party, but many are more interested in Natalia Vodianova’s dinner for her lingerie collection with Etam, which will feature a performance from Charlotte Gainsbourg (pictured). Wednesday night is Swarovski’s chic celebration of their commission of 22 iconic (and presumably sparkly) black dresses, Valentino’s sit-down dinner, and Kate Moss’ fête at the Ritz with Longchamp, which will feature a performance from the Queens of Noize. Makes sense, of course. What’s fashion week without a bunch of noisy queens?

Photo: Gamma / ZUMApress.com

Are You Prepared To Go Bare?

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Bras, corsets, tap pants, and briefs were exposed all over the Spring runways, with unexpected designers like Akris‘ Albert Kriemler joining lingerie lovers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano at the panty party. No doubt about it, innerwear as outerwear is one of the season’s top trends. But does the look work off the catwalk? Can you really show up to a meeting dressed as Madonna in her Like a Virgin phrase? We asked the experts.


“Naturally, I’m not hoping to see a lot of inappropriate bare skin and literal lingerie showing in the workplace,” says Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo. “I’m foreseeing a spike in lace-edge slips emerging from hemlines and sheer, pretty hosiery again.” However, if you are thinking literal, “the best way to wear lingerie is to take it out of context,” explains Fabiola Beracasa, who’s been known to rock a black corset over a white tee. “And make sure it’s delicate and expensive-looking, not trashy,” says stylist Kate Young. Her Spring pick? Stella McCartney‘s plunge-front nude lace halter. A couple of hard and fast rules: Exposed elastic bra straps are a no-no, only silk will do (Jean Yu); and if you do experiment with transparency, don’t leave home without a jacket (Kelly Cutrone). And, finally, this from a master of the seductive arts, Domenico Dolce: “Don’t be too audacious. Save something for the imagination.”


Click for a slideshow, then share your thoughts on the etiquette of exposed lingerie below.

Photo: Monica Feudi / GoRunway.com

Galliano’s Christmas Spirit, Bailey’s New Role, And More…

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More info on John Galliano’s Dior Christmas tree for Claridge’s has surfaced since we first reported on it , and it sounds as awesome as we expected. In lieu of pine needles there will be “crystals, orchids, vines, and lianas,” as well as a leopard, which we’re pretty sure will be fake, but really, we can’t be too sure. [WWD]

Rumor rejected: News that Victoria Beckham was thinking of starting a modeling agency has been denied by her people. She’s got a line of dresses to design, thank you, and those sheaths do not get made by themselves. [Vogue U.K.]

Christopher Bailey gets a raise. We didn’t think you could go much higher than creative director, but Bailey is now Burberry‘s first ever chief creative officer. [WWD]

Last year’s YSL auction was not for the bargain shopper, but this month’s second round may be (slightly) more budget-friendly. Art Deco enamel boxes will go for around $450, and Louis Vuitton travel bags start at $750. All in all, a small price to pay for a piece of Yves. [WWD]

They call me Mr. Nils. One-time Nina Ricci designer Lars Nilsson is launching a menswear line, which will debut in January at Pitti Immagine Uomo. [WWD]

H&M: big in Japan. Fast-fashion chains like Forever 21 and H&M are taking over Tokyo as luxury labels like Louis Vuitton and Giorgio Armani curtail plans for expansion. If we see an increase of Catholic schoolgirl styling at H&M, we’ll know why. [WSJ]

Heard In London: Galliano To Decorate Claridge’s Xmas Tree

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John Galliano has a thing for costumes, and it appears his latest role model could be Santa Claus. Word from London is that Claridge’s, the city’s most storied hotel, has asked the Christian Dior designer to decorate the Christmas tree that greets the guests in its Art Deco lobby. (Trimming duties were previously handled by an in-house team.) Galliano may be based in Paris, but he is, after all, a Commander of the British Empire.

The tree is set to be unveiled to the public when it’s illuminated on December 1. An official announcement is expected in the next few days.