78 posts tagged "John Galliano"
For all his love of the social whirl and grand parties, Christian Dior was a man who prized nothing more than a garden retreat. As a boy, he picked up a green thumb and his lifelong love of flowers from his mother, Madeleine, whom he helped landscape the gardens of his childhood home—a belle epoque villa called Les Rhumbs, in Granville, Normandy. Of this house, Dior wrote, “My life and my style owe almost everything to its location and architecture.”
And so it was that at the tail end of a Couture season brimming with parties, the house of Dior whisked a handful of journalists off by helicopter to Normandy to visit Christian Dior’s childhood home and get a sense of where it all started.
Set on a bluff overlooking the Atlantic and what could only be called a Dior-gray sky, the pinkish-hued Les Rhumbs appears much as it must have when Dior was young—minus the tennis club next door. The hedgerow labyrinth mentioned in Dior’s 1957 memoir, Dior by Dior, remains, as do the pergola and garden furniture he designed himself. The Dior family owned the villa until the thirties, when financial hardship forced them to sell the house and all its contents. The designer never returned there, but his spirit remains: The gardens opened to the public in the late thirties, and sixty years later, in 1997, Les Rhumbs became home to the Christian Dior Museum. Continue Reading “At Home With Christian Dior” »
Between Ingrid Sischy’s interview in Vanity Fair‘s July issue, Jonathan Newhouse’s profession of support, Cathy Horyn’s call for him to pave his own way back, and last night’s Charlie Rose sit-down, John Galliano has been monopolizing headlines of late. And understandably so—the pair of interviews marked the first time the former Dior designer spoke with journalists on the subject of his racist rant and struggle with addiction that ultimately led to his dismissal from the storied fashion house. If you missed his sober chat with Rose—during which Galliano was almost unrecognizable, having traded his signature matador and pirate ensembles for a blue oxford and blazer—we suggest you give it a watch. Galliano, who sometimes inspires sympathy and sometimes doesn’t, told Rose that it would be his last interview on the topic (he said additional discussions wouldn’t be “wise”). Here, a rundown of the apologetic designer’s most notable comments on such topics as Lee McQueen, the infamous video, his recovery, and his comeback.
On the video and the aftermath:
“No one was more shocked than myself, Charlie… At that point in my career I had become what is known as a blackout drinker. It’s where one can’t transfer short-term memory into long-term memory, so I have no memory of that event.”
“I was emotionally, spiritually, physically, mentally bankrupt. I didn’t know it, but I had a very big breakdown. Nervous breakdown, mental breakdown, emotional breakdown. I didn’t know, but I couldn’t begin to describe how that felt. And I was in denial.”
“[Natalie Portman] was right to say what she said. What I said was disgusting.”
On success and addiction:
“Along with all the successes came more collections. At that moment I was producing 32 collections a year between the house of Galliano and the house of Dior. And each collection would comprise about 1,000 pieces. Would you like me to run through the collections for you? We won’t have time.”
“By then, I was a slave to alcohol, then I would take the Valium to stop the shaking to do the fittings, and the sleeping pills so I could sleep. I was traveling a lot and my life became unmanageable.” Continue Reading “Memorable Moments From Galliano’s Sit-down With Charlie Rose” »
“I don’t like practical jewelry,” said Bali-born, Antwerp-based Heaven Tanudiredja. “I don’t like jewelry that’s normal or classic, either,” he continued. That would explain the designer’s hyper-sculptural necklaces, cuffs, and harnesses, which, as we’re sure you’ve now gathered, are none of the above. Having launched his range in 2007 while working with Dries Van Noten (he also did a stint at John Galliano’s Dior after graduating from the Royal Academy in Antwerp), Tanudiredja sees jewelry as a form of armor. “And I think it’s a way of telling a story—you have to discover all the details to understand it,” he offered.
Last season, his story began in a particularly unexpected place. The Fall 2013 collection was inspired by mental illness—specifically, autism. After diving into research, Tanudiredja felt that those who suffer from such disorders are seemingly trapped in a mental cage. “But if you stay inside your head,” he said, “there can be a beautiful chaos. I tried to put that beautiful [aspect] into the collection.” The result was weighty brass, gold, and vintage crystal wares covered with tiny, empty chairs, metallic wheels (representative of the constantly spinning psychological gears), and small hands that can’t quite touch. “It’s intense,” said the 30-year-old designer. No kidding. Continue Reading “A Little Bit of Heaven” »
In gritty 1980s London, John Galliano was wrapping up his studies at Central Saint Martins, Leigh Bowery was hosting pansexual club nights, and Nick Logan launched The Face. It was a time of unencumbered experimentation—sartorial and otherwise. And it was during this era that stylist Ray Petri—the man responsible for the anti-glam Buffalo movement—emerged on the scene. Petri (formerly Petrie) laid the bricks for the eclectic British fashion scene of today. His editorials, which set the tone in magazines such as Arena, i-D, and the above-mentioned The Face, pictured rough London teens in unexpected combinations of high fashion, tough workwear, athletic clothes, underwear, vintage, and beyond. He created not only a look but an ideology that was universally recognizable. And now, the iconoclast—who died of AIDS in 1989—is getting a magazine named after him.
Founded by Zadrian Smith—a London-based writer, stylist, and producer who’s worked with such publications as Tank, Love, GQ Style and British Vogue—PETRI(E) Inventory 65 (the stylist would have turned 65 this year—published annually, the numbers will bump up accordingly) seeks to breathe new life into Petri’s legacy. Aiming to channel the man’s uncompromising, unfiltered vision, PETRI(E)’s editorial array extends far beyond fashion. The debut issue offers an ode to Petri by British Vogue’s Francesca Burns, a photo essay by Saiful Huq Omi that lenses the hope and strife within Bangladesh megalopolis, Dhaka (above), and an essay by Valerie Steele on her upcoming exhibition, Queer History. “I think there’s a vulnerability and honesty to each piece that I hope readers will appreciate,” Smith told Style.com. Also included is an editorial titled “Melody of Caged Birds,” (above, right) which, featuring Meadham Kirchhoff’s designs, serves as a visual antidote to the suppression of raw creative impulse. “Don’t get me wrong,” said Smith, “I know fashion is a business, but there needs to be a greater balance of business and creativity. At this rate, fashion will bleed itself of organic artistry.”
PETRI(E) Inventory 65 launches on May 20, and is available for preorder here.
Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Riccardo Tisci, Christopher Kane—Central Saint Martins College has no shortage of iconic alumni. And it’s not hurting for fresh talent, either. Students in the undergraduate and masters programs have once again broken new ground with the release of 1 Granary, a student fashion magazine, named for the address of the school’s new King’s Cross campus at 1 Granary Square. “We were just having fun, doing what we loved,” explained the student editor and founder, Olya Kuryshchuk (she also styled the below shoot, “Going Sublime,” which was lensed by photographer Nikolay Biryukov), of the magazine’s origins. “Gradually, we realized that we had created a great opportunity—that we could meet the people who truly inspire us and show our own work in the process.”
The issue features interviews with CSM alums such as Kate Phelan, as well as some very rare archival images—the first official image of Alexander McQueen, which was shot by his friend and current CSM tutor Gary Wallis, Katie Grand’s first-ever photo shoot from when she was a second-year knitting student at the school (lensed by Wallis, the spread debuts here, above). “For the shoot, Katie and Gary Wallis drove all evening, shot all night in an old marked-off factory, and were back in time for class the next morning,” explained Kuryshchuk. And of course, 1 Granary highlights work by current students and recent graduates, with editorials showcasing brightly-printed sustainable tunics crafted by students during a group project, and some almost cartoonishly clever architectural pieces from 2011 graduate Jaeyeon Lee. Continue Reading “CSM Does It Again” »