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August 28 2014

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89 posts tagged "John Galliano"

Façonnable Relaunches for Fall ’14

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Facconable

Over the past sixty-plus years, Façonnable has established itself as a brand that captures the essence of the Côte d’Azur lifestyle (think: a round of tennis followed by an afternoon spent sailing off the coast of Monaco). Best known for its classic men’s suits and signature sporty staples, such as polo shirts and chinos, the label is repositioning itself and reviving its womenswear program for Fall ’14 with the help of its new artistic director, Daniel Kearns. Before taking the helm at Façonnable, Kearns served as the design director of menswear for Yves Saint Laurent under Stefano Pilati, and also worked at Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, and John Galliano. With this proven prowess in masculine tailoring, he rose to the challenge of creating his first women’s collection. “This is the first time I have mixed both tailoring and flow. Womenswear needs a more sensitive approach and is another mind-set,” he told Style.com.

Facconable

For his debut ladies’ lineup, Kearns kept the look elegant and understated (for the most part), whipping up sharp tuxedos, slim sheaths, and plush outerwear. His looks feature subtle accents that recall Façonnable’s heritage, such as braided trims and belts (a nod to the brand’s nautical roots). With an eye on the modern customer, he added several pieces that felt a bit more fashion-forward, including novelty bomber jackets and a metallic rose-gold pencil skirt. Another major development here was the reintroduction of eveningwear, which plays an important role in Façonnable’s history. When Jean Goldberg founded the label, in 1950, many actresses sought him out for gowns to wear to the Cannes Film Festival. With that in mind, Kearns showed a handful of beautiful, body-skimming column dresses with capelet details in back—the style in crimson-hued silk was a particular standout. “When you think of the French Riviera, you think of Cannes and women like Romy Schneider and Grace Kelly in Monte Carlo, as well as the photography of Helmut Newton and all the artists who retreated here for inspiration,” he explained. Altogether, Kearns’ impressive first foray into womenswear (in addition to new advertising campaigns, updated branding, and refurbished stores) suggests a bright new future for Façonnable.

Façonnable’s Fall ’14 womenswear lookbook, which was shot at the historic Cap Estel hotel, debuts here, exclusively on Style.com.

Photos: Courtesy of Façonnable

Galliano Takes the Stage

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John GallianoHe’s back! Kind of. After months of rumors, WWD reports that John Galliano is slated to design the costumes for Stephen Fry’s forthcoming London production of The Importance of Being Earnest. Given his flare for theatrics, and the fact that he created onstage wares for the same play back in 1982, we’d say the designer is more than qualified for the job. Galliano is also apparently still in talks with Oscar de la Renta about assuming a more permanent role at the company. “I love John. He is a great talent,” de la Renta said.

Photo: Monica Feudi/ GoRunway.com

The Strings and Arrows of Unpleasant Fortune

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John Galliano, at the Spring 2007 Dior Haute Couture showThe Galliano world tour continues—this time without Galliano. The former Dior couturier—not in person, but in puppet form—will be the star of a twenty-minute play put on by the French fashion magazine Vestoj to celebrate its new issue, WWD reports. “Little John” is adapted from Galliano’s now-famous apology interview with Charlie Rose (who will also appear as a puppet). It debuts at Silencio in Paris on December 10, followed by a second performance in February at the London College of Fashion. (Galliano himself is an alum of rival London fashion school Central Saint Martins.)

As for a costume, what could be more appropriate for a pint-size reproduction than a Napoleonic outfit? Puppeteer Etienne Bideau-Rey based the puppet’s garb off the nineteenth-century look Galliano wore to the Spring 2007 Dior Haute Couture show.

Photo: Marcio Madeira

“Applause,” Please: Brandon Maxwell Talks Styling Lady Gaga’s Latest Video

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Just in case you haven’t gotten your fill of Lady Gaga’s paint-smeared face, it’s back in the video for “Applause,” the first single to (officially) drop from the singer’s forthcoming album, Artpop. Fittingly, for the woman devoted to living her life as a live-action editorial shoot, the video was directed by fashion photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, who also shot Artpop‘s cover and Gaga’s four September V covers. “For me, it was one of the most memorable experiences that we’ve ever had,” Gaga’s stylist, Brandon Maxwell, told Style.com when asked about working with the photographers. Of course, the clothes—like an archival John Galliano gown accessorized with duct tape and safety-pin baubles by Mathieu Mirano, and Valentino Couture lingerie paired with Alaïa boots—added to the excitement.

“The concept was really, What would you do for the applause?” explained Maxwell. Donning a custom Gareth Pugh pillow gown (which explodes around a black catsuit by Mila Schön) and a Maison Martin Margiela Couture jacket (Gaga wears it atop a mirror-and-pin costume conceived by her sister, Natali Germanotta) seems a good place to start. However, Maxwell stressed that some of Gaga’s most memorable looks boast a DIY touch. “Nobody loves clothes and couture more than Gaga, but I think some of her most famous costumes are things that she made with her own two hands,” asserted the stylist. “So there are parts of the video that are incredible for fashion people—like, I was basically crying during that whole Galliano scene. But she has a huge fan base, and I like to choose pieces—whether they’re off the runway or made by us—that some of these kids can make at home.” This time around, those items included seashell pasties; a floating bikini bottom that Gaga’s in-house Renaissance man, Perry Meek, assembled from fresh flowers, glue, and string; and a surreal top by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac shaped to look as though two gloved hands are grasping Gaga’s breasts. The pop star also wears assemblage-style wings—fashioned from broken umbrella spokes—by L.A.-based Junker Designs. Continue Reading ““Applause,” Please: Brandon Maxwell Talks Styling Lady Gaga’s Latest Video” »

John Galliano x Oscar de la Renta: Round Two?

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Oscar de la Renta Fall 2014After a temporary stint at Oscar de la Renta back in January (and a subsequent whirlwind press tour) John Galliano is reportedly in talks with the house about returning on a more permanent basis, reports WWD [http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/oscar-galliano-explore-role-at-house-7081533?module=hp-topstories]. Alex Bolen, CEO of Oscar de la Renta Inc., offered, “As we have said before, we are deeply impressed with John’s talent and would love to find a way to work with him in the future. To date, we have not found that way.” Galliano’s representative declined to comment. Back in January, de la Renta—now age 81—vehemently denied that he was retiring and grooming Galliano as a successor. But earlier this year he did tell the paper, “We all loved having John here in the studio, and would like to find a way of having him here more often.” Could there be another Galliano-infused ready-to-wear collection in de la Renta’s future?

Photos: Filippo Fior/ InDigital/ GoRunway