8 posts tagged "Jonathan Anderson"
Alessandro Dell’Acqua isn’t one to wax nostalgic. “For me, designing is all about a new story and a modern attitude,” the designer said before a cocktail party in honor of his ready-to-wear label, No. 21, at the New York residence of Valentina Castellani on Friday night. The soiree celebrated a new push for the brand, which, founded in 2010, gained financial backing from Gilmar in 2012. And the evolution of his label is evidence that Dell’Acqua’s forward-looking philosophy applies not only to his clothes, but to his life, too. Fall ’14 will bring plenty of new adventures for Dell’Acqua, now 50. He’s launching menswear under the No.21 moniker, as well as presenting his first collection for heritage French house Rochas, where he was appointed creative director in October after Marco Zanini announced that he was leaving to head up Schiaparelli. “I’m not a young designer, so when they called, I said, Are you sure?” Dell’Acqua laughed, noting that other storied houses (like Balenciaga and Loewe) have opted for younger creative directors (like Alexander Wang and Jonathan Anderson, respectively). Sometimes, however, it helps to have a talent who knows the ropes.
Indeed, Dell’Acqua is no up-and-comer. In 1996, before stints at Malo and Les Copains, the designer launched his successful, hyper-feminine namesake line, known for its whimsical yet seductive allure and lingerie accents. Two years later, he started an eponymous menswear range. But his story is all too familiar—Dell’Acqua lost the rights to his name after a dispute with his parent company, Cherry Grove (who also owned Malo), in 2009. He made a comeback a year later with No. 21—a ready-to-wear label named for his birthday (December 21) and his lucky number. “It’s about real women,” he told Style.com during that first show in 2010. Now, three years later, the brand, which is carried in stores like Selfridges and Matches, independent boutiques, and at such e-tailers as Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi, delivers just that—smart staples (think: embellished separates, slick blazers, and crisp overcoats) that cater to real-world women with a penchant for luxury. “No. 21 was born out of a horrible moment for me,” recalled Dell’Acqua. “I wanted to do a little line that was completely different, but still had my DNA.”
You can’t say we didn’t warn you. Today, WWD reports that after scooping up Nicholas Kirkwood last week, LVMH has purchased a minority stake in up-and-coming British brand J.W. Anderson (designed by Jonathan Anderson). Oh, but that’s not all. Anderson, 29, has also signed on as the creative director of Loewe, stepping into the shoes of Stuart Vevers, who announced in June that he was leaving the Spanish house to replace Reed Krakoff at Coach. Sound like a lot for the emerging talent to take on? It is. But if Anderson has the guts to send boys in sheer lace jumpsuits and ruffled tube tops down the runway, we’re pretty sure he’s up for anything—particularly if that anything is injecting a youthful edge into Loewe’s classic look.
What is the meaning of collaboration? Ian Schrager and Marriott are experts at it by now, as their partnership has led to one of the coolest hotel propositions around, the Edition. The London outpost is set to open its doors tomorrow, with a highly anticipated launch party hosted by Stefano Tonchi, Edward Enninful, and Cara Delevingne, to be held on Saturday night. To capture the essence of collaboration, Edition along with Nowness have shot a collection of five films by Johnnie Shand Kydd. The third film in the series, Distinction, goes live on Thursday, September 12—but we got a sneak peek.
Distinction features two of the greatest fashion collaborators around: Lady Amanda Harlech, who has spun her magic with Karl Lagerfeld over the decades, and J.W. Anderson’s Jonathan Anderson, who, with his sold-out Topshop line, knows a thing or two about teamwork. Listen to their thoughts here in the trailer’s exclusive debut, above.
Watch out, Kering. LVMH is comin’ round the bend on the young designer investment front—or it’s rumored to be, anyway. Today, WWD reports that LVMH is believed to be in talks with London-based up-and-comer Jonathan Anderson of J.W.Anderson. The emerging talent, known for his wares’ slick cuts and androgynous appeal, has been on the rise for the past few seasons. Earlier this year, he launched his very first ad campaign, which debuted exclusively here. And who could forget his collaboration with Versace’s Versus? No doubt, a little help from LVMH would further elevate his line—and his profile. In related news, there have been whispers the past few months that LVMH is looking to invest in accessories designer Nicholas Kirkwood’s growing business, too. This all comes on the heels of Kering’s headline-making move to buy a 51 percent stake in Christopher Kane in January, as well as the company’s purchase of shares in Altuzarra just last week. All in all, it looks like luxury parent corps are invested in funding the future of fashion—here’s hoping the designers will continue to stay their respective creative courses.
To say Jonathan Anderson, the London-based designer behind J.W. Anderson, has had a big year would be a ridiculous understatement. The past 12 months have seen the up-and-comer—best known for crisp, clean shapes and boldly blurring gender lines—win the 2012 British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent, receive a frenzy of media attention for putting his Fall ’13 boys in ruffled skirts and tunics, star in a slew of magazine features, and design a capsule for Versace’s Versus. “You have to take it step-by-step,” said Anderson of his meteoric rise. “The whole point of fashion for me is that I love what I do and it doesn’t seem like work. You just need to find a balance and do things organically when you feel like doing them.” Anderson’s next organic step is his first ad campaign, which, lensed by Jamie Hawkesworth, debuts exclusively above. Styled by Benjamin Bruno, the minimal images depict a pared-down boy and girl dressed in Anderson’s Fall ’13 designs. The pair gaze moodily into the camera, and, in one shot, the male model holds a red car door. According to Anderson, it represents the idea of extraction. “I wanted to show the relationship between a boy and a girl, a man and a woman, and the abstraction of that,” he explained. “There’s something disturbing between them, and it makes you question the idea of who in the image is more powerful, or who is more seductive.”
The ads’ rollout will be as organic as their inception. Anderson, who just debuted his androgynous Spring ’14 menswear collection in London, is still feeling it out, and plans to place the photographs in such magazines as Dazed & Confused and Another, as well as in online outlets and retail spaces. “I think advertising is always looked at as a corporate thing,” offered the designer. “But I kind of see it as more of an art form. Fashion is meant to sell a dream or idea. It’s not just about pushing a bag,” he said. “It’s about pushing a concept.”