10 posts tagged "Jonathan Anderson"
The Fall ’14 menswear collections kicked off in London today, and will be followed by the shows at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, in Milan, and in Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: J.W. Anderson, designed by Jonathan Anderson
WHEN: Tuesday, January 7
WHAT: “Aristocratic biscuits.” —Jonathan Anderson. The designer sent us a sneak peek of his Fall ’14 show space, above.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua isn’t one to wax nostalgic. “For me, designing is all about a new story and a modern attitude,” the designer said before a cocktail party in honor of his ready-to-wear label, No. 21, at the New York residence of Valentina Castellani on Friday night. The soiree celebrated a new push for the brand, which, founded in 2010, gained financial backing from Gilmar in 2012. And the evolution of his label is evidence that Dell’Acqua’s forward-looking philosophy applies not only to his clothes, but to his life, too. Fall ’14 will bring plenty of new adventures for Dell’Acqua, now 50. He’s launching menswear under the No.21 moniker, as well as presenting his first collection for heritage French house Rochas, where he was appointed creative director in October after Marco Zanini announced that he was leaving to head up Schiaparelli. “I’m not a young designer, so when they called, I said, Are you sure?” Dell’Acqua laughed, noting that other storied houses (like Balenciaga and Loewe) have opted for younger creative directors (like Alexander Wang and Jonathan Anderson, respectively). Sometimes, however, it helps to have a talent who knows the ropes.
Indeed, Dell’Acqua is no up-and-comer. In 1996, before stints at Malo and Les Copains, the designer launched his successful, hyper-feminine namesake line, known for its whimsical yet seductive allure and lingerie accents. Two years later, he started an eponymous menswear range. But his story is all too familiar—Dell’Acqua lost the rights to his name after a dispute with his parent company, Cherry Grove (who also owned Malo), in 2009. He made a comeback a year later with No. 21—a ready-to-wear label named for his birthday (December 21) and his lucky number. “It’s about real women,” he told Style.com during that first show in 2010. Now, three years later, the brand, which is carried in stores like Selfridges and Matches, independent boutiques, and at such e-tailers as Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi, delivers just that—smart staples (think: embellished separates, slick blazers, and crisp overcoats) that cater to real-world women with a penchant for luxury. “No. 21 was born out of a horrible moment for me,” recalled Dell’Acqua. “I wanted to do a little line that was completely different, but still had my DNA.”
You can’t say we didn’t warn you. Today, WWD reports that after scooping up Nicholas Kirkwood last week, LVMH has purchased a minority stake in up-and-coming British brand J.W. Anderson (designed by Jonathan Anderson). Oh, but that’s not all. Anderson, 29, has also signed on as the creative director of Loewe, stepping into the shoes of Stuart Vevers, who announced in June that he was leaving the Spanish house to replace Reed Krakoff at Coach. Sound like a lot for the emerging talent to take on? It is. But if Anderson has the guts to send boys in sheer lace jumpsuits and ruffled tube tops down the runway, we’re pretty sure he’s up for anything—particularly if that anything is injecting a youthful edge into Loewe’s classic look.
What is the meaning of collaboration? Ian Schrager and Marriott are experts at it by now, as their partnership has led to one of the coolest hotel propositions around, the Edition. The London outpost is set to open its doors tomorrow, with a highly anticipated launch party hosted by Stefano Tonchi, Edward Enninful, and Cara Delevingne, to be held on Saturday night. To capture the essence of collaboration, Edition along with Nowness have shot a collection of five films by Johnnie Shand Kydd. The third film in the series, Distinction, goes live on Thursday, September 12—but we got a sneak peek.
Distinction features two of the greatest fashion collaborators around: Lady Amanda Harlech, who has spun her magic with Karl Lagerfeld over the decades, and J.W. Anderson’s Jonathan Anderson, who, with his sold-out Topshop line, knows a thing or two about teamwork. Listen to their thoughts here in the trailer’s exclusive debut, above.