7 posts tagged "Jonathan Simkhai"
“I think it’s like a football game,” explained womenswear designer Jonathan Simkhai from his brightly lit studio in the CFDA’s Incubator. “They’re sitting on the sides like a cheerleader, rooting you on, but it’s up to you to make the goal and score the point—and they’ll definitely run with you all the way to the finish line.” He’s talking about his experience thus far in the Incubator, the much-lauded CFDA program that each year takes ten young brands and helps them develop their businesses through rent-subsidized studio space and continuous mentoring over the course of two years.
On the last day of New York fashion week, Simkhai and the others showed just how far they’ve run and presented their Spring ’14 collections to buyers, editors, development mentors, and special guest Linda Evangelista yesterday afternoon.
Collections ranged from Simkhai’s own Brighton Beach mod and eighties-silhouette-inspired sexy athletica to Arielle Shapiro’s St. Petersburg-influenced modernized Art Deco lingerie to Number:Lab’s sporty, robotics-themed fashions (i.e., stylish men’s activewear designed to go from the gym to dinner). Many, including some very clean fifties-style and Indonesian looks from Timo Weiland, were inspired by CFDA and W Hotel-sponsored trips to various locales around the world. “I chose to go to Doha in Qatar to see their culture, the desert,” said jewelry designer Emanuela Duca of the original point of reference for her raw, black-and-white sterling silver collection of “primitive, sophisticated” rings, cuffs, and necklaces. “This experience has been really wonderful. There are very few months left—about seven—and I don’t want to even think about it ending!”
The Spring ’14 collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Jonathan Simkhai
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Saturday, September 7
WHAT: “My Spring Woman was inspired by the Mods vs. Rockers brawl at Brighton Beach in the 60s. She’s fearless, effortlessly cool and classic.”— Jonathan Simkhai. The designer sent us a glimpse at his Spring lineup, above.
Black might be the motorcycle jacket’s de facto hue, but a number of designers have rendered ornate, polychrome twists on the wardrobe staple for Resort ’14. Take, for instance, 2013 CFDA Accessories Designer of the Year winner, Phillip Lim, who offered up an asymmetrical, cropped iteration of the moto jacket, replete with banded shoulders and an aerodynamic pattern that cut across the front (above, left). Combining a graphic eighties punch with a downtown sort of futurism, the topper was a prime example of Lim’s clean, sporty brand of quirkiness. Meanwhile, Erdem Moralioglu (above, right) showed an option that was thick, greasy, and yes, noir, but printed with a venerable thicket of English seaside flora (for inspiration, the designer looked through his mother’s old photographs from vacations to the British littoral). And up-and-coming New York-based designer Jonathan Simkhai turned out a custom-printed pony-hair jacket with sleeves in contrasting leather (above, center). “We wanted to create a Western feel, but with a techy spin,” the designer told Style.com when asked about the splatter motif. “It’s meant to be a futuristic cowhide.” And for the woman wondering how to pull off such an item, Simkhai offers: “Pair a statement jacket with soft silk track pants—it makes for a comfortable yet stylish transitional outfit.”
Head-to-toe white has a tendency to look a bit clinical—but not so when it comes to this season’s perforated leather wares. Punctuated, laser-cut leathers in icy hues were spotted all over the Spring ’13 runways. At Proenza Schouler, the technique gave off a sporty techno vibe, while Jonathan Simkhai’s laser-cut floral designs were simultaneously sharp and ladylike. Shop our punchy picks, from Alaïa, Thierry Mugler, and more, below.
1. Jonathan Simkhai shirt, $1,230, available at www.matchesfashion.com.
2. Incase iPad snap case, $24.95, available at goincase.com.
3. Proenza Schouler skirt, $1,959, available at www.mytheresa.com.
4. Thierry Mugler Vintage shoes, $426, available at www.farfetch.com.
5. Alaïa bag, $1,883, available at www.farfetch.com.
As we enter into a month of fashion shows, we’ve asked some of this season’s biggest stars and most anticipated new talents to offer a sneak peek. Naturally, it’s a busy time for everyone—designers and fashion-watchers alike—so we’re pioneering the split-second preview: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. To view all of our Fall ’13 previews, click here.
WHO: Jonathan Simkhai
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Saturday, February 9
WHAT: “Fall was inspired by early 80s ska bands. I love their carefree boyish attitude & how it contrasted against their tailored rock ‘n’ roll look.”—Jonathan Simkhai. The designer sent us a Fall ’13 sketch, above.