2 posts tagged "Joop!"
After seven years, Berlin Fashion Week is solidly in its sophomore phase. The surge of energy that initially propelled it has waned, with major regional fashion houses such as Joop!, Hugo Boss and Rena Lange bowing out, while internationally renowned German designers like Jil Sander and Kostas Murkudis never participated. Yet optimism unites the fifty-one designers currently presenting collections on the Mercedes Benz catwalk. Bright, clear, confident yellow – the color of sunshine and high hopes – has beamed onto most catwalks during BFW’s past three days.
Vladimir Karaleev, an insiders’ favorite for his roughly finished and sculptural creations, showed a coat made from an unhemmed sunny jacquard silk which could have upholstered a chair in Louis XIV’s living quarters. Models sported fist-sized Marigold corsages over denim and cocktail attire at Marc Cain. Laurèl launched its show with a jumpsuit, shift, skirt and trousers in the same yellow and white lacework print. Young designer Rebekka Ruétz, a beacon for the Berlin fashion scene, presented variations of a tangy tie-dye print in belted blazers, leggings, jumpsuits and skirts under white chiffon veils. And Rike Feurstein suited a model in genteel high-waisted lemony trousers with a matching net breastplate and shoulder-pads the size of hats. Surreal or pragmatic, yellow was the tone of optimism for Berlin’s stalwart designers.
Few nations are masters of sleek kink like the country that created Helmut Newton and Marlene Dietrich. And Berlin loves its status as Europe’s capital of “poor but sexy” chic. But sometimes playing that role can become merely cheap and raunchy. Last season, when Joop!’s Dirk Schönberger ventured into club-land with looks that recalled adolescents in fancy-dress fetish gear as “kinky nurses” or “bad bunnies,” the outcome was as unsexy as a lame dirty joke. These limp looks were all the more shameful because Joop! is one of the few brands with legs outside the local market. And despite being one of Europe’s biggest markets and an emerging scene, Berlin still needs its established brands to be role models. So, this season it was a real relief that Schönberger’s vision of “adult fashion” hit full maturity, and the results were properly pulse-quickening. The models walking through the Hamburger Bahnhof museum’s temporary runway were styled with wet crimson lips, long straight hair with blunt bangs, and clean skin, all of which highlighted the sharply sculpted but not overstated cut of mostly black dresses, suits, and skirts. The looks called to mind the dark connotations of leather and latex, but only enough to entice the properly smitten audience.