4 posts tagged "Josep Font"
The Fall ’14 Ready-to-Wear collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Delpozo, designed by Josep Font
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Sunday, February 9
WHAT: “Inspired by the lyrical abstraction work of the artist Duilio Barnabè, and a futuristic retro aesthetic based on the novel Logan’s Run.” —Josep Font. The designer sent us a glimpse at one of his Fall ’14 looks, above.
Josep Font is single-handedly reviving Spain’s fashion legacy. Two years ago, Font assumed the design helm at Delpozo, where he has successfully modernized Jesús del Pozo’s vision and introduced the historic house to an international audience. Font made an impressive New York fashion week debut with a standout Fall ’13 show that highlighted his unique style of “prêt-a-couture.” The range was quickly picked up by major retailers such as Harvey Nichols, Opening Ceremony, Moda Operandi, and Net-a-Porter. On the heels of that initial success, Delpozo opened its premiere flagship in Madrid last spring, and is now expanding into the U.S. market with its first stateside store in Miami’s Design District, slated to open on February 20. An image of the new space debuts exclusively here.
Font was involved in every step of planning both boutiques—down to choosing the layout, furniture, materials, music, lighting, and even the aromas for each. In fact, Font originally studied architecture in university at the behest of his parents, then launched his namesake ready-to-wear line upon graduation, which had been his true aspiration all along. Similar to the larger Madrid location, Delpozo’s new, 672-square-foot shop strikes an elegant balance between starkness and warmth, and is composed of glass, brass, marble, and organic wood elements. Bronze display cases present Font’s intricate, fairy-tale-worthy confections like precious jewels, while spare midcentury furniture and pale pink walls add a slight retro feel to the space. In the throes of designing his Fall ’14 collection, which will hit the runway in New York on February 9, Font spoke to Style.com (with the help of a translator) about the evolution of the brand, his outlook on luxury, and the forthcoming collection.
On Jesús del Pozo: “I had followed Del Pozo growing up. When I entered the company, I remained with the same team that Jesus had. I’ve felt very supported there and am pleased with the quality of work there. One thing is certain: Jesus and I have similar work ethics and methods, and a similar type of woman in mind.”
On Delpozo’s couture-level craftsmanship: “We are catering to a new luxury market. We’re not competing on a global level with houses like Chanel or Dior, but instead we’re targeting specific customers who want that kind of attention to detail in the sewing, the embroideries, the patterns. Our most expensive, special pieces have been our best sellers.”
On his Fall ’14 collection: “The outside appearance is streamlined and structured, but the inside of each garment is very complicated. My idea is to keep tightening and cleaning it up along the way. All of our new embroideries are done in-house, and we’re using precise colors—nudes, light blue, mustard, and crudo—that take a long time to process. For a while, everything was out on the table, on the verge of exploding, but we know that the result will be a good one.”
On what inspires him: “I try to inspire myself through my everyday life. I’m an avid reader. I like theater. I like the opera, and I really like the countryside. I have a house in the countryside that I enjoy very much.”
Delpozo’s new store, located at 35 NE 40th Street, Suite 100, Miami, FL (305-573-1009), will open to the public on February 20. For more information, visit www.delpozo.com.
Gingham typically stirs up feelings of nostalgia, but lately designers are doing their part to modernize the classic checks. Derek Lam opened his Spring show with eight crisply tailored, crosshatched looks; Delpozo creative director Josep Font paired the graphic pattern with cheerful sunflowers; and Olivier Rousteing put his signature glam spin on the trend at Balmain with plaid bomber jackets and kicky skirts accompanied by chunky chain jewelry. As seen on the 3.1 Phillip Lim and Mark McNairy New Amsterdam menswear runways, buffalo-plaid pieces have been earning style points with the guys, too. Meanwhile, model off duty Marine Deleeuw looked like Lolita incarnate in her sweet pink-and-white shirtdress, and we spotted plenty of gingham items from Prada’s cinematic Fall ’13 collection in the streets. As Isaac Mizrahi told Style.com a few years ago at a Resort presentation, “Gingham is like a solid with a lot of personality.” Agreed.
Pleating, in various iterations, unfurled as a keynote trend this season. Alexander Wang, for example, offered boxy swatches on miniskirts in New York. Also crimped in Manhattan: Victoria Beckham‘s peekaboo accordion creases. And, in Paris, Phoebe Philo caused a stir with loads of narrow corrugations at Céline. Yet where these designers skewed toward traditional folding, a trio of labels proposed a fancier twist on the technique for Spring ’14 via intricate pleats that mimicked ruffles.
At Delpozo, creative director Josep Font’s barley-yellow trousers, which boasted an arc of frilled pin-tucks, were a standout in his soft, painterly collection. In Paris, Dries Van Noten opened his show with a quiet white frock, the seams of which were embellished with whorls of gilded fabric. Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier, too, employed creased ruffles in his Spring ’14 lineup. One dress in particular—a gray-green number vertically veined in bow-like folds—was particularly striking. “I wanted to add texture and dimension in an unusual way,” Maier told Style.com. “The monochrome color, combined with the movement of the pleats, creates this effect.” To construct the garment, Maier and his team blended cotton with a vegetable fiber called ramie, which possesses malleable characteristics akin to copper. The result was a tactile sartorial sculpture.