58 posts tagged "Joseph Altuzarra"
Strong showing from Joseph Altuzarra, I thought. A lot of young New York designers are all over the place, but Joseph seems to be settling into a nice rhythm, with an identifiable signature but also a sense of variation and development each season. The mood of luxe coziness reminded me a bit of the Hermès Fall 2013 show. A few designers have been taking their cues from that collection lately. As they should. It keeps getting better in the memory.
The staging was…well, I’ll let Maya Singer explain. Afterward, the show’s producer, Etienne Russo, who routinely orchestrates some of fashion’s most memorable spectacles, told me that the existential dread that came over you watching the interminable German acapella performance was all part of the plan. He intended it as an antidote to our instant gratification culture. And they say fashion is shallow…
This wasn’t my favorite Alex Wang show ever, but I got the sense that the crowd—particularly the European contingent—liked it a lot. And you can see why. In a city that gets knocked for playing it safe fashion-wise, Wang stands out for the scale of his ambition, evident in the staging, the clothes, and even in the ballsy decision to show in Brooklyn. Now let’s see some more of that ballsiness at Balenciaga, please.
The Italian label held a chic postshow dinner at Sean MacPherson’s newish hotel, The Marlton. How chic? Well, at the company’s request, there were no party photographers present. If this catches on, that should cause some existential angst among the fashion set. Gian Luca Passi de Preposulo, the urbane, intelligent Moncler executive, introduced us with maximum casualness to his date: “This is my girl Jessica.” That would be Chastain.
UNDER THE RADAR
Patrick Li, that unabashed logo vandalizer and discerning creative director of T Magazine, thinks more people should be paying attention to A Détacher. He’s right.
The Fall ’14 Ready-to-Wear collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Altuzarra, designed by Joseph Altuzarra
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Saturday, February 8
WHAT: “Intersection.” —Joseph Altuzarra. The designer sent us a Fall ’14 inspiration image, above.
Shu Pei working a trim merino tuxedo is a sight for sore eyes—and it’s one that we were privy to last week when Joseph Altuzarra invited Style.com to his fourth-floor studio in Tribeca. The occasion was the lookbook shoot for his International Woolmark Prize capsule, which he’ll present to an esteemed panel of judges (including Franca Sozzani, Frida Giannini, and Style.com’s Tim Blanks) during Milan fashion week on February 21. As the victor of the national competition, which he won with a baby pink wool suit back in July, Altuzarra will represent the U.S. in the final round and compete against the U.K.’s Sibling, India’s Rahul Mishra, Australia’s Christopher Esber, and China’s ffiXXed for a grand prize of 100,000 AUD. “It’s an incredibly prestigious award,” said the designer, who recently sold a minor stake of his company to Kering. “Winning would be a great accomplishment for my team and me—and obviously, the cash prize would be very helpful.” He told us that the spoils would go toward expanding fabric production and development.
Judging by the woolly looks we saw on the designer’s rolling racks, he’s got a fighting chance. Comprising of clever knit dresses, a fit-and-flare black coat, layered skirt and sweater ensembles, and Pei’s tux, the mini collection is simultaneously signature Altuzarra and not, mainly because he experimented with a new (for him) method: needle-punching, a practice that seamlessly bonds two fabrics together via a gradual woven transition (see a sneak peek of the effect, above). “It’s not normally a technique I would use because it has a very different association than what the Altuzarra world is,” he explained. “It’s a bit crafty, and almost a little hippie in spirit.” However, there’s nothing “hippie” about Pei’s tux (or the rest of the collection, for that matter), which boasts the flippy little peplum we’ve often seen from the designer. In this instance, the needle-punching was used for the jacket’s fuzzy back panel. (It looks deceptively like fur.) Elsewhere, it was employed to create a degrade effect on frocks that are fuzzy on top and sheer on the bottom, and fuse bulky, textured knits with smooth, solid fabrics.
As for inspiration, Altuzarra ended up doing some thorough historical research. “Obviously, we were thinking about wool,” said the designer of the 100 percent merino collection. “But we wanted to work inside the Altuzarra vernacular, which is quite sexy, sensual, and seductive. I started thinking about how iconic wool garments were, and how they’ve been staples over time.” His key references were fishermen’s knits; 1950s skirt suits; and Brigitte Bardot’s soft, saucy sweaters (see his mood board, left). The latter motivated him to include a soft pink in his palette. Black, gray, and neutral hues are also in the mix. “I wanted to focus on technique, and the colors are quite pale so that you could really see what’s happening,” he said.
Altuzarra offered that he’s looking forward to meeting Woolmark’s other four finalists. Competition is bound to be fierce, but Altuzarra is hoping Pei, who will be accompanying him to Milan, turns out to be his ace in the hole. “When I first started and did my very first show, I cast her,” said Altuzarra. “She was the biggest model we had, so I was very, very, very excited. And I actually realized three seasons ago that I haven’t had a show without her since. She’s my good-luck charm.”
Check back next month to see Altuzarra’s exclusive diary from the competition.
Pantone may have named Radiant Orchid—a dusty magenta—its color of the year for 2014, but judging from the latest Pre-Fall lineups, designers beg to differ. The hue that’s cropped up time and time again is orange, from true, juicy shades to red-tinged bricks and rusts. Pastel outerwear was all the rage in 2013, but now Narciso Rodriguez, Joseph Altuzarra, and Gucci’s Frida Giannini have pumped things up with tailored coats in spicy shades. Proenza Schouler added fire to the tonal trend with wrap dresses and separates done in paprika-colored buttery suede. Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier did his part, too, showing a cozy Creamsicle sweater and complementary tangerine trousers (and on It redhead Magdalena Jasek, no less). Will menswear designers take up the torch for Fall ’14? Tune in this January to find out.
In the streets and on Tommy Ton’s pages in the latest issue of Style.com/Print, jeans are more dressed-down than ever—shredded, distressed, and faded to a fare-thee-well. But it was a different story on the Spring runways, where polished denim ruled. At his Louis Vuitton swan song, Marc Jacobs gave dungarees a couture twist with jet-beaded pockets. Olivier Rousteing upped the ante at Balmain, trussing soft, faded chambray with major metal chains. And Joseph Altuzarra sent out tailored pieces featuring indigo prints in the style of Japan’s elaborate “boro” patchworks. Dark-rinse denim was also in the spotlight at Acne Studios, Versace, and Derek Lam. Even the Valentino designers got in on the act, whipping up a ball skirt (actually, full-leg culottes) from the stuff.