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September 2 2014

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4 posts tagged "Joyce"

Vetements’ Collection of Ideas Debuts in Paris

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Vetements

The foursome behind the new label Vetements, which means “clothes” in French, first met at Maison Martin Margiela. After a time, they all dispersed, but the backstory goes a long way toward explaining why, now that they’ve formed a collective, not one wishes to be identified by name. What we can say, however, is that it’s an international crowd with cred—they’re Austrian, Belgian, Ex-Soviet Union, and French, and they’ve done time at Balenciaga and Céline.

Regrouping has been “kind of like a high school reunion,” one of the designers said the other day. “But what we really want to do is just make clothes that are timeless, personal, and nice to have. It’s more a collection of ideas.”

The kind of woman Vetements is talking to is urban, but she’s into pushing it with not-too-basic wares such as vintage 501s reworked as a skirt with uneven, raw hems; boxy jackets in heavy biker leather; and conceptual pieces like garment bag shearling coats and sleeveless vests (these come with a separate set of sleeves). “Brutalist” basics cover a lot of ground, from T-shirts and sweaters to trenchcoats. These are offered in seasonal colors of charcoal, navy, taupe, bordeaux, and black, and the range is brightened by the occasional flash of aluminum nylon. Judging by the retailer response (and the clothes, of course), this wearable compilation of ideas is full of good ones—Opening Ceremony, Joyce Hong Kong, and Maxfield in L.A. have already picked up the brand’s debut collection.

“It’s not topical, we’re not talking themes,” the designer noted. “We’re talking pieces that work on their own and play off each other.” We’ll be keeping an eye out for what this mysterious quartet does next.

Photos: Courtesy Photos

And The 2014 International Woolmark Prize Winner Is…

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RAHUL MISHRA

Today in Milan, a panel of judges including Style.com’s Tim Blanks, Franca Sozzani, Angelica Cheung, Frida Giannini, Colin McDowell, and Alexa Chung selected the winner of the coveted International Woolmark Prize. Competitors included the States’ Joseph Altuzarra (who will be sending us a diary chronicling his experience), the U.K.’s Sibling, Asia’s Ffixxed, Australia’s Christopher Esber, and Rahul Mishra, who represented India and the Middle East. So which talent won the judges’ affections? That would be Mishra. Having shown a lineup focused on embroidery, the designer will take home $100,000 AU in prize money, and his Woolmark collection will be stocked in such retailers as Saks Fifth Avenue, 10 Corso Como, Harvey Nichols, and Joyce.

Photo: Courtesy of Woolmark

A History Seen In Sequins

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After trekking from Hong Kong to Shanghai, Joyce Hong Kong’s celebratory 40th anniversary exhibition has arrived in Paris. And considering the show includes archived looks from over 50 designers on the store’s stock list, like Lanvin, Stella McCartney, and Alexander McQueen, it’s one to see. “Joyce was a pioneer of bringing luxury to Asia. And the way that the Joyce label has moved on, the way that they’ve made new stores and new lines, makes it really a 40 years to celebrate,” said Suzy Menkes at a fête for the retailer yesterday evening. According to Joyce president Andrew Keith, the brand felt the best way to celebrate this milestone was to share it with as many people as possible. Judging by the fact that the traveling exhibition has already had 200,000 visitors, he seems to be doing just that.

On display at the Joyce Gallery in the Palais Royal are a polka-dotted YSL trench dress from 2003, a vivacious Oscar de la Renta sequined jacket and electric peach feather skirt from 1992, and a crystal-embellished Givenchy frock from 2008. Those years are significant—they represent when the designers were first sold in the store. And adding to the appeal are two interactive tables with glowing touch screens that reveal designer bios, collections, and a host of images from the Joyce archive, and video interviews with designers such as Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, conducted by former Joyce magazine editor and current veil-clad fashion maven Diane Pernet.

Photo: Courtesy of Joyce

Rodarte Gets In The Mood For Maggie Cheung

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Chinese actress Maggie Cheung’s bravura performances have earned her the respect of directors like Wong Kar-wai and Olivier Assayas and made her a favorite of stylish girls for years. Among them: Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte. The sisters were in Hong Kong last week to celebrate the launch of an exclusive four-piece collection designed in homage to Cheung, who joined them to host a dinner and cocktail party at Joyce. The one-off pieces themselves were auctioned off to benefit UNICEF, but luckily you don’t need to own them to enjoy them. In fitting tribute to the actress, the Mulleavys created a short film with the Hong Kong-based photographer Wing Shya to spotlight the collection, inspired by four great performances of Cheung’s: from In the Mood for Love, Hero, Clean, and The Heroic Trio. “She is as amazing as the mythical place we were inhabiting for the week,” the sisters said of Cheung and Hong Kong. Check out their video, below.