29 posts tagged "Juergen Teller"
When Dasha Zhukova released her debut issue of Garage magazine during fashion week last September, The New York Times called it “one of the most intriguing magazines to come along in years.” To jog your memory, recall that cover (there were three different ones) lensed by Hedi Slimane, featuring the lower half of a nude model with a peel-off Damien Hirst sticker on her crotch. One year later, she’s got issue number three ready to hit newsstands September 10. The theme, it would appear, is a little less provocative: time.
“Our themes in the past were not risqué just for the sake of it—it was more that we focused on subject matter that we thought resonated,” she tells Style.com. “We decided to focus on ‘time’ as our theme as it seems to be the one thing that everyone is either trying to buy more of or rush their way through with the increasing presence of technology in our everyday lives. From our obsession with defying the effects of aging to the stress of deadlines that loom in our careers to things as seemingly trivial as arriving ‘fashionably late,’ time touches all aspects of our lives.”
Zhukova brought on the likes of photographers Nick Knight and Juergen Teller to interpret time for the five different covers, all linked to an editorial inside the issue. Knight did a Lichtenstein-inspired shoot with Lindsey Wixson, with text captions by Perez Hilton. “Nick Knight’s shoot and collaboration with Perez takes traditional pop art to the contemporary extreme. It takes an aesthetic that feels almost classical to today’s generation and frames it timelessly with the use of today’s digital shorthand,” she explains. Teller, for his part, photographed the oldest tree in the world with Spanish actress Rossy de Palma as his model. The other three covers include works by artists Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset, John Currin, and a limited-edition vinyl record with a conversation between Marc Jacobs and Currin. Here, Style.com has an exclusive first look at the Knight (pictured, above) and the Teller (pictured, below) covers.
The Fall ’12 campaigns started trickling in with magazines’ July issues, and there has been a spate of new ads in the recent August glossies. From a model’s standpoint, landing a campaign is the holy grail in terms of both money and prestige. The reason girls walk in runway shows to begin with (catwalk turns are notoriously underpaid or paid in trade) is to get noticed by the designers, stylists, and photographers who could potentially turn them into a billboard or the face on the side of a bus. Aside from Kate Moss (pictured, above), who appears in the latest from Salvatore Ferragamo (lensed by Mikael Jansson), and Daria Werbowy‘s reprisal at Céline (Juergen Teller previously shot her for Spring ’11), this season has really been about fueling up-and-comers. Case in point: Elza Luijendijk, whose Prada runway exclusive eventually turned into a spot in the coveted campaign shot by Steven Meisel. The 16-year-old Dutch beauty also wowed in Versace’s Fall gothic-chic series with the help of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott (pictured, below). Kati Nescher has been a huge success story this year, and she scooped up contracts with Chanel and Nina Ricci (and we’re guessing more are on the way in the not-so-distant future).
Overall, the general trend in fresh faces is: The newer they are, the more designers pack in together. Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana, and Etro have all put out multi-girl images. The Balenciaga pack is completely unknown: Julier Bugge, Linn Arvidsson, Juliet Ingleby, Anniek Kortleve, and Sophie Hirschfelder—even the most diligent model watchers have no idea who these girls are, but Nicolas Ghesquière always loves to throw us a few head-scratchers. On the other hand, Dolce & Gabbana perfectly cast the more recognizable Italian trifecta of Bianca Balti, Bianca Brandolini d’Adda, and Monica Belluci for its Fall ads.
“I wanted to show English humor and irreverence,” said Stella McCartney, so demure that butter wouldn’t melt in her mouth, even though, minutes before, she’d proved that unleashing mass hysteria in an audience is a talent that clearly runs in the family. To launch her exclusive London Evening collection for Fall 2012 (slideshow here), McCartney threw a black-tie bash at One Mayfair, a soaring neoclassical space that used to be the church where Led Zeppelin played its first London gig in 1968. At the beginning of the evening, when show producer Sam Gainsbury cryptically promised “something big,” there was a millisecond or so when I imagined a Led Zep reformation. One could but dream. Father Paul in a reprise of his Grammy performance? That, at least, would be easier to swing.
The crowd—including Rihanna, Kate Moss and Jamie Hince, Mario Testino, Juergen Teller, the Le Bons, the Driver sisters, Stella Tennant, Bianca Jagger, and belle of the ball, Shailene Woodley—was well seeded with models in Stella dresses. Not, they insisted, the clothes we had come to see. “We’re just guests,” said Kinga Rajzak, dazzling in a black sheath with a white contoured effect. She was one of the new guard of girls on hand. Shalom Harlow, Amber Valletta, Yasmin Le Bon, and Anouck Lepère were also wearing Stella gowns, ranging from variants on the contouring to marble-printed bubble dresses to confections spun from vibrant orange or electric blue lace. Lucie de la Falaise brought daughter Ella on her first big fashion night out. Appropriate, then, that they’d be staying over at godmother Moss’ London pad.
After guests chomped through a veg feast of five small but perfectly formed courses, Dutch illusionist Hans Klok, World’s Fastest Magician, took to the stage. He laid a hypnotized Alexa Chung across three huge scimitars and left her essentially floating in mid-air, balanced on the sword on which her head rested. Trance state or not, she claimed she could still feel the point of the blade an hour later. Childlike glee is always my default position with magic tricks, but surely this was not the “something big.” Suddenly, there was an almighty shriek from a nearby table, where it seemed like a scrap had broken out between a guest and a waiter. Then Led Zeppelin’s “Immigrant Song” came walloping over the sound system, and all hell broke loose. Models, waiters, and Shailene Woodley flew hither and yon in a breathtakingly tight dance routine choreographed (in 24 hours, apparently) by Blanca Li, a fierce-looking but funny Spanish woman who was sitting at my table quietly chatting with Pedro Almodóvar’s costume designer Paco Delgado one minute and whirling through space like a dervish the next. But in amidst the physical frenzy, there was the elegantly precarious image of Shalom, Amber, and Yasmin parading around the room on catwalks improvised from chairs placed under each foot as they took a step.
“Something big” it was, indeed. And thrilling and surprising. Even Simon Le Bon had no idea what his wife was about to do. It was all a remarkable testament to timing, pluck—and the remarkably pliable properties of Stella’s eveningwear.
CLICK HERE for the complete Fall ’12 eveningwear collection, plus pictures from the party and performance >
At the request of his friend Angela Missoni, director Pedro Almodóvar stepped in front of the lens for the new Missoni campaign, shot by Juergen Teller. He’s now reprising his role in a campaign video directed by Marco Maccapani. The video pays homage to the Spanish director’s own colorful, campy pop style—all the more so because it was shot at the Madrid club Villa Rosa, where he shot scenes for his 1991 film High Heels, with two of his heroines, Rossy de Palma and Blanca Suárez, most recently seen in The Skin I Live In. Mariacarla Boscono rounds out the cast of Todo Sobre Missoni, a tongue-in-cheek nod to Almodóvar’s hit Todo Sobre Mi Madre.
We first spotted Kati Nescher treading the boards at the Spring ’12 shows, walking for labels like Marni (where she opened and closed), YSL, Celine, and Stella McCartney and eventually earning her place among our Top Ten Models of the season. Though she’s older than most of her catwalk compatriots (at 27) and, like fellow model Arizona Muse, has a young son, Nescher’s star is undeniably on the rise. She booked the high-profile Louis Vuitton Spring campaign with Steven Meisel (alongside Daria Strokous), and today brought news as well that she’s the Spring face of Pringle of Scotland, shot by David Benjamin Sherry. A recent interview with The Cut revealed that she’s been shooting with Juergen Teller. That could mean just about anything, but on the Fashion Spot forums, model diehards are already speculating it means one of the big coups: a Celine campaign. Time will tell.