9 posts tagged "Julien David"
Julien David has emerged as one of Paris’ hottest up-and-comers since launching his line in Spring 2011 (and winning the 2012 ANDAM prize). He has an artful approach to even the most basic of ensembles (think high-tech fabric hoodies and textural, tulle-embellished T-shirt frocks), and he’s proven that his finger is on the pulse of creative culture. So it’s perhaps not surprising that he’s worked with one of fashion’s favorite artists, the impossibly cool Aaron Young, for his Fall ’14 show, which is set for 1 p.m. tomorrow at Paris’ Palais de Tokyo. Young, who met the Japan-based David while visiting Tokyo, has lent the designer two of his gilded barricade sculptures to enhance the ambience of the presentation.
“Every season I try to present a new idea of what can be considered high-end fashion,” David told Style.com. “I do it progressively, working concepts and techniques little by little. The two keywords for Fall ’14 are ‘control’ and ‘release.’ I wanted to show my taste for mixing references that are not generally used together, and build the collection around those opposite things.” He felt that Young’s sculptures were the perfect complement to this concept. “I asked Aaron to lend me two of his beautiful barricade sculptures for the show. They’re totally crunched up but dipped in 24-karat gold. They’re a nice analogy for this season’s materials and fabric manipulation.” Have a look at Young’s sculptures, above, and don’t miss David’s show tomorrow afternoon.
The streetwise French-born designer Julien David has been on a hot streak lately, scooping up the Andam Fashion Award in 2012 and enjoying the kind of die-hard, tell-your-friends support from retailers like Colette’s Sarah Andelman and The Webster’s Laure Heriard Dubreuil that fellow designers would give their eyeteeth for. His latest coup is the opening of his first-ever boutique, in the Jingumae neighborhood of his adopted city, Tokyo—and, just in case you needed the reaffirmation, he’s stamped the concrete facade with “Julien David Jingumae Shop.” “I believe every location has a certain vibe,” David explained to Style.com. “I would like each of my stores to have its own characteristics, music, and atmosphere, and offer customers a unique, genuine experience in different locations. To show how this specific area is different than another one, how things are here, and what we think about and enjoy locally.” Inside, there are fixtures in glass, metal, concrete, and Japanese wood, finished off with a dripping splatter of paint. “I wanted to invent a place that would be the best environment to experience my collections, to have the same playfulness and urban raw energy that we try to inject in the clothes,” David said. Not far from the shopping meccas of Omotesando and Harajuku, he has built a room of his own.
French-born Julien David is still based in Tokyo, but his home country is giving him a warm welcome. He’s just come off winning the ANDAM, the French syndicate’s annual up-and-comers prize, and this season, his menswear made it onto the runway for the first time, where his women’s has been for several seasons. It spurred him to grow up, but not much. His Fall collection had a lot to do with suits, but “I wanted to do my suits,” he clarified. They were proportioned like the streetwear he’s championed, stretched long and loose, as if they’d been made from taffy. “Often high fashion for men can be too classic or too dark and dramatic,” he said. “My goal is to take some references from streetwear and inject them at the right places in my designs, trying to find the right balance.”
His suits, as it turned out, were witty, wearable approximations of the stuffier versions paraded throughout Paris and Milan this month. Textured in Tencel, wool flannel, and wool serge, they had a Muppet fuzziness thanks to the addition of Alpaca. Playful use of Japanese fabrics like these gave the collection kick. And if they had kick, the full roundhouse was delivered by what David called “crazy check” shirts: long-haired plaids woven in reverse so they tufted up—the flannel in IMAX 3-D.
The winter conundrum: Keep warm or keep chic. Cold-weather-proof clothing is often the antithesis of fashionable, but December through March is not a lost cause. Take a cue from models-off-duty Frida Gustavsson and Jacquelyn Jablonski, who added a little something extra to their look with colorful printed scarves. Get their look with four of our favorite pieces from Isabel Marant, Givenchy, Jil Sander, and more, below.
From left, above:
1. Isabel Marant scarf, $280, available at www.netaporter.com
2. Jil Sander scarf, $282, available at www.mytheresa.com
3. Julien David scarf, $305, available at www.farfetch.com
4. Givenchy scarf, $680, available at www.barneys.com
Emmanuelle Alt, Sarah Andelman, Renzo Rosso, and other jurors on this year’s Andam Fashion Award panel, myself included, gathered at the Ritz in Paris this afternoon to choose this year’s winner. In the running for the €230,000 prize were Cédric Charlier, Julien David, Vika Gazinskaya, Calla Haynes, Nicolas Andreas Taralis, and Thomas Tait. As ever, it was a cosmopolitan crew, with designers hailing from Belgium, Russia, Canada, and Germany, but David, the competition’s Frenchman, came out ahead. (A look from his well-received Fall ’12 show is pictured, left.)
For the moment, the designer’s business is based in Japan, but he’ll be spending more time on his native soil—the award requires the recipient to found and operate a company in France. Despite being an expat nearly half of his life—David left home at 18 to study at Parsons in New York and worked for Narciso Rodriguez and Ralph Lauren—he professed excitement at the prospect of coming home. “I had ideas I couldn’t execute in Japan because money was an issue,” he said. “I want to expand the collection concept, especially into areas that are unique to France, like embroideries.” The Prize Ceremony will take place tomorrow evening at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
The young women behind the one-year-old label Piece d’Anarchive—sisters Priscilla and Déborah Royer and Virginie Muys—won ANDAM’s First Collection Award, which comes with a €60,000 check. The trio said they’ll use the funds to put on a September presentation of their Spring 2013 collection, which jurors got a sneak peek at. Newbies they may be, but they didn’t lack for presentation skills. Describing the sports-influenced collection, Priscilla evocatively promised “discipline dancing with ecstasy.”