14 posts tagged "Junya Watanabe"
When it comes to denim dressing, Spring ’14 is all about the patch. If, like us, you still regret those unfortunate hippie-dippy patched-up flares from middle school, this probably doesn’t sound like your cup of tea. But the new (and improved) patchwork look is clean, sharply tailored, and, dare we say, pretty slick. Picture tricolor patchwork skinnies with a floaty blouse, or better yet, a quiet, matching denim jacket. To nail the trend with ease, stick to classic shades of blue and look for patterns that resemble large color-blocking rather than traditional DIY patches. It’s unclear whether we should credit Junya Watanabe’s Spring ’14 show or Midwestern farmers for the rise of this style, but one thing’s for sure: We like it. Shop our favorite new blues by Frame Denim, Isabel Marant Étoile, Pierre Hardy, and more, below.
1. Thierry Lasry Sexxxy sunglasses in navy, $435, available at shopbop.com
2. Frame Denim Le Skinny color block mid-rise skinny jeans, $270, available at net-a-porter.com
3. Isabel Marant Étoile Kerlen denim jacket, $535, available at matchesfashion.com
4. Zara denim ballerina flats, $59.90, available at zara.com
5. Pierre Hardy color blocked cotton denim clutch, $795, available at luisaviaroma.com
Breakfast with my colleague Maya to go over the lineup for the next issue of Style.com/Print, which we put together while simultaneously covering the shows on the site and publish within a month of the close of Paris fashion week, a live-broadcast approach to making a magazine. Then it was off to the Rodarte show. Last season’s collection got slated, though I sort of liked its trashy energy. This one had more of the Mulleavy sisters’ customary handcrafted offbeat charm and should be a hit with their fans. After that it was on to Diesel Black Gold on the West Side, and then a meeting on the East Side with a European luxury house, who filled me in on its plans for a huge event later this spring.
Tons of energy and lots of food for thought at Marc by Marc Jacobs, which has been rechristened by its initials and is now in the hands of the London-based duo of Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier. Something about the scale of the plywood set and the refracted references here made me think I could have been at a show in Paris. There was an intriguing magpie quality to the clothes, as if you were moving through the racks of Dover Street Market from the Japanese designer section to the sophisticated European section to the streetwear section. My favorite grouping was the BMX-inspired looks. The show was a bona fide smash with the audience. It’ll be interesting to see how the aesthetic, a break from the line’s more insouciant past, plays at retail. Delphine Arnault, of the parent group LVMH, was looking on from the front row.
Talking of Dover Street Market, I ran into the new Comme des Garçons-operated, multiretailer space on Lexington Avenue to say hello to Andre Walker. Walker is the first to describe himself as an “elusive” designer, and after a few stops and starts, he’s back with a small line, thanks to the encouragement of DSM’s Adrian Joffe and Rei Kawakubo. You’ll find it on the seventh floor between Junya Watanabe and Prada, an indication of the esteem Kawakubo has for Walker.
Every season, there are a couple of models who break through and start popping up in all the big shows so that you can trace the day’s development through their changing hairstyles and runway attitudes. This season, those models are Binx Walton and Anna Ewers, who in the space of a few hours went from Bolshevik ninja at MBMJ to sleek gallerina at the serenely beautiful Narciso Rodriguez show that closed another day of New York fashion week.
It’s coming…. Last year, it was announced that Rei Kawakubo’s conceptual shopping wonderland, Dover Street Market, which already has locations in London and Tokyo, would be opening its doors in New York. But we didn’t know exactly when the Manhattan mecca would launch, until today. This afternoon, DSM revealed that the store, located on the fittingly unlikely corner of Thirtieth Street and Lexington Avenue, will bow on December 21. What treasures will be on offer, you ask? Prada, Thom Browne, Supreme, Simone Rocha, Christopher Kane, Alaïa, Atto, A.P.C., Rick Owens, Junya Watanabe, and a brand-new range from nineties fashion star Andre Walker are just some of the lines on DSM New York’s stock list. And don’t worry—wares from every breed of Comme des Garçons you could possibly dream of will be up for sale, too. Whether DSM will be able to transform the notoriously bland Murray Hill neighborhood into something with a little more elegance and edge is up for debate, but if anyone can do it, it’s Rei Kawakubo. For more information on DSM’s stateside arrival, read our Q&A with Comme des Garçons CEO Adrian Joffe.
Throughout Tokyo fashion week, we’ve had Misha Janette reporting on the city’s most exciting shows. To see Style.com’s complete Tokyo fashion week coverage, click here.
Saturday marked the sixth and final day of Tokyo fashion week, and it was dedicated to the city’s top menswear designers. Comme des Garçons itself doesn’t show in Tokyo, but it was exciting to see its youthful Ganryu label (left) take to the catwalk. Designed by Fumito Ganryu, who was formerly a patternmaker for Junya Watanabe, Ganryu showed a Fall '13 range that catered to an urban huntsman—a man who pairs cable-knit sweaters and puffy down vests with super low drop-crotch pants and high maintenance coifs. A dress shirt with trompe l’oeil vest appliqué showed off Ganryu’s progressive nature.
Facetasm focused on separates in its collection of layered workwear-cum-dress clothes. Kilts, slips, peplums, and sleeve-only bolero jackets all made an appearance. Each piece boasted its own details, like basket-weaving and original line drawings of a forest or old-school tattoos. For the women, there were formfitting silhouettes with pastel-colored ruffled trim.
Making its debut on Saturday was Mr. Gentleman, a brand headed by Takeshi “Big-O” Osumi of popular menswear brand Phenomenon, and Yuichi Yoshii, who is the director of Tokyo’s top multi-brand superstore, The Contemporary Fix. Together, they produced a casual and modern wardrobe that featured slim-cut tweed leisure suits and retro letterman jackets. For a twist, the designers showed a leather-lined and zipper-trimmed peacoat and an argyle-print jacket.
The week closed with a large-scale installation show by new label C.E. With former BAPE designer Skate Thing at its creative helm, the brand used 3-D mapping technology to create a kaleidoscopic fashion feast. C.E.’s standouts, like hoodies and colorful board shorts, furthered the familiar urban look that Skate Thing does best.
You could call Style.com’s Tumblr the eyes of the site: It’s where the editors upload what we’re seeing, where we’re seeing it, instantaneously—no filter. (OK, occasionally Instagram’s Amaro filter, but that’s it.) At year’s end, we’ve gone back through the rolls to find the biggest hits, month by month, of our postings: what’s been liked, reblogged, commented upon, and loved. The tops of every month, December back to January, above.
12. Lindsey Wixson backstage at Dior Couture, December: 643 notes
11. The Tsar’s Palace, St. Petersburg, Russia, November: 224 notes
10. Sade, Beauty Icon of the Month, October: 399 notes
9. Jewelry by Hervé Van Der Straeten, September: 175 notes
8. Karen Walker sunglasses, August: 214 notes
7. The mariée at Elie Saab Couture, July: 314 notes
6. A pink-haired attendee at Junya Watanabe’s Spring ’13 men’s show, June: 1,094 notes
5. A diamond collar by H.Stern, May: 3,140 notes
4. Collar clips by Bones and Feathers Collective, April: 111 notes
3. Alexander McQueen rose clutch, March: 295 notes
2. Jourdan Dunn getting a touch-up backstage at Prabal Gurung, February: 142 notes
1. Tilda Swinton, Frances McDormand, and Sandro Kopp, January: 33 notes