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April 17 2014

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2 posts tagged "Juun.J"

Work Hard, Play Hard: Juun.J Doubles Up

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Korean designer Juun.J’s specialty is a sort of doubled coat: two jackets attached at the bottom, looped and connected like a Möbius strip. There were plenty of these on view at his show at the Maison des Métallos in Paris yesterday. Models wore both at the same time, wore one and carried the other, or in some cases wore one on their bodies and one over their heads. It’s a Margiela kind of trick, as were the double-sleeved trenches the designer showed alongside. Put your arms through one set and let the other pair dangle down. (In fact, Margiela showed a very similar model for its women’s pre-fall collection.)

As slightly skewed as these coats may be, they’re also very beautiful, which is why the designer has picked up a cultish following at forward-leaning stores like Seven New York. In his own way, with the collection’s soft, wide-legged suits, horn-rimmed glasses, and the models’ slicked-back hair, Juun.J was doing his own version of the beleaguered businessman, not totally different from the men in the gray flannel suits Thom Browne used to show (apart from the much looser silhouette, of course). The business attire made those double coats and double jackets seem a little sad, somehow: Peel away a layer of suit and, like an onion, there’s just another lurking underneath. Some later play with the same material, though, yielded a lighter, more rebellious moment. The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit may have to work long, hard hours, but meet his weekend alter ego: The Man in the Gray Flannel Moto Jacket!

Photo: Richard Bord / Getty Images

Barcelona Fashion Week: Cutting-Edge, International, Grandma-Inspired

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Barcelona 080 fashion week is a bit of an oddity among the European fashion fests. The city has a long tradition of style—it’s famous for espadrilles, which even the Barcelona police used to wear—but classic looks aren’t part of the runway offerings here. The 13 Catalan designers who showed over the past three days each took different directions, but all bypassed the traditional suiting and classic womenswear. For its Spring ’11 session, 080 Barcelona awarded €10,000 prizes to two local talents: Manuel Bolaño’s women’s collection, A Little About Me (pictured), was, he says, “inspired by my grandmother at her house in a country town.” Judging by the billowy jumpsuits, crochet lace body stockings, and layered skirts in rubber or metallic brocade, Gran was one very forward-thinking woman. In menswear, Catalonia’s rising star, Juan Antonio Ávalos, showed a collection called Tropical Knight, full of vivid color combinations such as red and pink. He managed to juxtapose medieval elements like coats of arms with seventies Cali surf-and-skate styles.

In addition to local talent, 080 Barcelona invited five rising stars from across the world to show here this season: India’s Manish Arora, Greece’s Yiorgos Eleftheriades, and three designers from South Korea: Juun.J, Songzio, and Lee Jean Youn, who won last year’s Mango Fashion Awards. “I’ve got two days here after this show, and that’s my summer vacation,” said Juun.J, who titled his Spring menswear collection “Flap” because the airy pieces make him think of birds’ wings. Eleftheriades took the occasion to show his draped women’s looks alongside a selection of his new menswear. And Arora managed to party till dawn every night and still wow the crowd with his Art Deco kaleidoscope pieces dripping with Indian beading and embroidery.

Photo: Courtesy of Barcelona Fashion Week