52 posts tagged "J.W. Anderson"
The rumor mill is churning again today, with a choice bit of unconfirmed gossip: Wags are wondering if London designer Marios Schwab isn’t lending a hand to the famously anonymous Maison Martin Margiela. Margiela himself exited the company in 2009, and ever since there have been rumors and reports of other designers—most recently former Céline hand Ivana Omazic—guiding the design team. The Margiela team’s only comment was that it does not communicate on who its designers are, and, in the words of WWD, “characterizing its studio as a creative collective with members of long standing that it feeds regularly with new contributors.”
While the impetus to unmask single design geniuses is an understandable one, it may be a model that’s falling out of date. It begs the question: Should we always have one designer to point to, or is a more team-spirited approach the better way? Certainly Margiela has been on an upswing these last few seasons.
The Maison is not alone in adopting, happily, a revolving door mentality. When Christopher Kane left Versus, Donatella Versace opted not to hire a single designer in his place, but to invite a series of guests to try their hands. (First up, J.W. Anderson; second, M.I.A.) And in a recent editorial on the fate of Jil Sander after the departure (again) of Jil Sander, Cathy Horyn wondered aloud if the best practice wouldn’t be to build a strong design team. It’s not hard to imagine that being refreshed with new talent as talent arrives.
Something to think about, as several large houses—from Louis Vuitton to Sander—go, for the moment, without single stewards.
This morning, the British Fashion Council announced the nominees for the 2013 British Fashion Awards, to be held in London on December 2. The race for this year’s emerging talent awards will be especially exciting—while 2012 saw the comparatively long-established Jonathan Saunders and J.W. Anderson take the honors in the up-and-coming men’s and womenswear categories, respectively, 2013′s nominees include Marques’Almeida, Thomas Tait, Simone Rocha, Craig Green (left), Christopher Shannon, and Agi & Sam—the veritable new-new in London’s fashion pool. Green, in particular, has seen his star skyrocket this year, after peddling his unconventional take on menswear since his graduation from Central Saint Martins in 2012.
New in 2013: an International prize, for which Prada, Marc Jacobs, and Dior (Raf Simons) are named, and a Best Campaign award, the contenders for which have not yet been revealed. It’s sure to be a close race between Cara Delevingne, Edie Campbell, and Sam Rollinson for Model of the Year. Same goes for the womenswear designer of the year honor, for which Christopher Kane, Céline’s Phoebe Philo, and Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton have been named. For a full rundown of the 2013 nominees, visit the BFC’s Web site.
It’s official. Versace and M.I.A. have confirmed a nineteen-piece collaborative collection for the house’s Versus line. The musician follows in the footsteps of J.W. Anderson, who unveiled his collection for the brand back in May. In an attempt to “invert the circle” of copycat fashion, the singer drew inspiration from the concept of counterfeiting—and Donatella is on board. “I adore the energy of the street, so when M.I.A. proposed to expose the issue of counterfeit Versace pieces by creating a collaboration inspired by these items, I thought it was an incredible idea,” she told WWD. No word yet on where Paris fashion week’s Vaccarello for Versus rumors came from, but the M.I.A. x Versus collection will go on sale October 16.
Some things in life really are black and white—like the style set’s color palette of choice. From Tommy Ton’s street-style snaps to the latest Spring ’14 runways, black and white remains a foolproof, timeless sartorial formula. At Balmain, Olivier Rousteing whipped up oversized black and white houndstooth checks and quilted jackets; J.W. Anderson played with whisper-thin gossamer; and Giambattista Valli sent out tiny crop tops and molded, flowerlike skirts. Since spring is a bit far off, we’re looking forward to making a graphic statement with cool-weather staples like slouchy knits and flat boots. Shop our favorite black and white pieces by Givenchy, Michael Kors, and more, below.
1. Thierry Lasry two-tone acetate cat-eye sunglasses, $485, available at www.net-a-porter.com
2. Neil Barrett color-block knitted sweater, $580, available at www.net-a-porter.com
3. Michael Kors Miranda large tote with quilted gusset, $1,295, available at www.shopbop.com
4. Givenchy black and white leather ankle boot, $1,650, available at www.net-a-porter.com
5. Neil Barrett Zigzag wool-blend miniskirt, $520, available at www.net-a-porter.com