57 posts tagged "J.W. Anderson"
Jonathan Anderson, London’s up-and-coming design darling known for his provocative, gender-bending J.W. Anderson men’s and womenswear collections, took a trip to Tokyo last week to celebrate the launch of his second collaboration with Topshop. After feting his collection at a cocktail party on Thursday, the designer took some time out to explore. Anderson sent us a few snaps from his adventures. See the Japanese city through his eyes, below.
Welcome to Japan.
The impact of scale. Continue Reading “Designer Diary: Jonathan Anderson’s Postcard from Tokyo” »
The London shows wrapped yesterday and, to our surprise, the city—known for its vibrant (in every sense of the word) young talents—gave us clothes in uncharacteristically subdued hues. Not that that’s a bad thing. As Marc Jacobs‘ show poignantly proved, gray is emerging as a prevalent Fall tone (perhaps a rebellion against the techno prints and acid shades we’ve seen in seasons past). And this held strong across the pond, with designers like Mary Katrantzou (above, center), J.W. Anderson, Richard Nicoll (above, left), and Thomas Tait favoring the shade. (Not that they were married to it. Tait, Nicoll, and Anderson each had splashes of orange, too.) Katrantzou—London’s princess of vivid prints—was a particularly unexpected (and successful) color convert, showing a meticulous collection that consisted mainly of black and gray, with hints of emerald, lilac and cobalt. But most surprising (and thrilling, for that matter) was Meadham Kirchhoff (above, right). The designers ditched their rainbow sequins and beloved disco palettes in favor of an almost entirely black, white, and ash Fall range. That’s not to say it was bland—vinyl ruffles (like the ones that trimmed the designers’ skirts and trousers), no matter what the shade, could never be bland. But it was indeed a directional departure from their typical kaleidoscopic mix. Don’t be mistaken—London’s pared-down palettes don’t mean the fog has taken over, and there were plenty of colorful clothes on offer to prove it. However, a few of the city’s talents have figured out that they don’t always need to employ prints and brights to pack a serious punch.
The Fall ’13 season is now well underway, and as we follow the shows to London, Milan, and Paris, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Naturally, it’s a busy time for everyone—designers and fashion watchers alike—so we’re pioneering the split-second preview: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. To view all of our Fall ’13 previews, click here.
WHO: J.W. Anderson, designed by Jonathan Anderson
WHEN: Monday, February 18
WHAT: “Semiology of the self.” — J.W. Anderson. The designer sent us an inspiration image—a series of 1981 photograms by Samuel Beckett—above.
First, it was meggings. Now mantyhose? According to an article in WWD, men’s pantyhose is a hot item at Emilio Cavallini. Popular styles include those printed with argyle, barbed wire, dots, and crossword puzzles. Quite frankly, we can’t say we’re surprised. What else would gentlemen wear with J.W. Anderson’s Fall ’13 men’s minidresses? With the gender lines blurring more by the minute (boys dressed like girls—think Andrej Pejic; girls dressed like boys, à la Saskia de Brauw, Casey Legler, and Tamy Glauser), this trend—while perhaps surprising at first—actually sort of makes sense. Mantyhose are basically just printed long underwear, which men are apparently donning with shorts (questionable), under ripped jeans (sensible), and as a cozy sock alternative. (Lisa Cavallini told WWD that her male clientele likes the patterns peeking out from their shoes.) If Rick Owens can champion the men’s heel and Marc Jacobs can wear a lace dress, why not push stockings for boys? However, we have a feeling they’d catch on faster if they weren’t called “mantyhose.”
From J.W. Anderson‘s tube tops and frilled shorts (above right) to Meadham Kirchhoff‘s tunics and skirts to Sibling‘s fluffy cotton-candy-pink shorts, London’s up-and-coming designers put some extreme feminine twists on their Fall ’13 menswear collections. But while men (who aren’t Marc Jacobs or Andrej Pejic, that is) may be a little hesitant to jump on the gender-bending bandwagon, it would seem that women are, once again, craving an androgynous edge. The proof? Due to popular demand, menswear designers are creating looks tailored just for the ladies. For instance, as deputy editor Matthew Schneier reported from Pitti Uomo yesterday, Andrea Pompilio sent out nine cross-dressing girls (above left) before allowing his male models to walk the Fall runway. “They ask so many times for very petite sizes for women, so why not do it?” he said after the show. Over in London, E. Tautz‘s Patrick Grant was feeling the same pressure. “We just started a very small line of women’s shirts, which kicked off at the request of one of the stores in Japan—who came to our men’s show and asked if they could have small versions of our men’s shirts,” Grant told British Vogue, hinting that a full-on Savile Row-inspired womenswear range might be in his future (the shirt capsule will be available at Matches.com this spring). Of course, shes dressed like hes isn’t a revolutionary trend (Le Smoking, anyone?), but the overlap of his and hers styles in the men’s collections certainly has our attention. So, are designers pushing us to become a bunch of sexless style-ites? Hardly. But if you’re tempted to walk in the other gender’s shoes, Fall ’13′s menswear will more than afford you the opportunity.