74 posts tagged "Kanye West"
“I approach each season like it’s my last,” offered Rob Garcia, the man behind New York-based streetwear label En Noir. Considering fans such as Kanye West and A$AP Rocky live in the brand’s luxe leather track pants, and that top-tier retailers such as Barneys, The Webster, and Isetan already stock the four-season-old line, Garcia’s carpe diem attitude toward design seems to be working—that is to say, En Noir’s “last season” is nowhere in sight.
Having launched for Fall ’12, the line has garnered a cult following with its high-end leather menswear. But women, too, have been coveting En Noir’s tailored, badass aesthetic. “We had female clients buying our menswear, and we had amazing retailers that wanted to see us do womenswear,” offered Garcia. So for Spring ’14, he decided to take the leap, creating five pieces just for the ladies.
Formerly a designer for Black Scale (known for its urban basics), Garcia sources all the hides for his buttery, creatively treated trousers, T-shirts, hoodies, and tank tops from Italy and France. The garments are then hand-treated in the States. “We try to keep pushing the boundaries of leather,” explained Garcia. “And the next level is different treatments.” The label’s Spring ’14 collection, which debuts exclusively here, offers an abundance of techniques that boggle the mind and the senses. For instance, a white leather womenswear jacket is shredded in such a way that one might mistake it for a sequin bomber (above), and an unlined suede men’s topper is as soft and sleek as silk. Meanwhile, a calfskin crop top is laser-cut to look like lace, and a tulip-shaped leather mini is embossed for a tactile, crinkled effect.
Expanding beyond its signature leathers, En Noir also offers Spring track pants, T-shirts, and tank tops done in a custom “coal wasteland” cotton print (above, left). Branding—a new aesthetic leap for the label—is a focus, too, appearing on suede panels that wrap around the sporty wares. “I’m thankful for each season, and I’m just trying to progress,” said Garcia when asked about his aims for the future. And while En Noir continues to attract high-profile clients—and stockists—Garcia is determined to stick to his streetwear roots. “We’ll always keep it wearable,” he told us. “The clothes are for the daily guy, or daily woman, and can be worn all day, whether it’s in the street or at a party.”
The partnership of Nick Knight and Kanye West is one of the must-see unholy alliances of the moment. Their latest joint venture, the video for “Blkkk Skkkn Head,” off of West’s new album, Yeezus, arrived today on KanyeWest.com. Why the Web site-only upload? Only on Kanye’s site does the video have its full functionality, allowing viewers (on some browsers, at least) to speed up or slow down the track and video, and to capture stills from it to upload to their various social media feeds. (The snapshot button is an Instagram icon.) As in-your-face as that share button may be, it’s one of the few ways you still can get some Kanye of your own. The product of West’s other recent unholy alliance, his capsule collection with A.P.C., has already sold out.
The story of the capsule collection—emphasis on capsule: It consists of three T-shirts, three hoodies, and two pairs of jeans—that Kanye West designed for A.P.C. has quickly taken on the tinge of legend. “Over two years ago, a visitor to the A.P.C. studio was announced to me as ‘Kenny’…” begins A.P.C. founder Jean Touitou’s introductory note, which has been republished in full on every Web site from here to eternity. The collection hits A.P.C. stores worldwide this morning. For the occasion, the ever-oracular Touitou spoke with Style.com about his most famous collaborator, the “kingdom of dopeness,” and the only celebrities that truly interest him.
How does Kanye West compare as a collaborator to others you’ve worked with? He is famously particular. Did you have any trepidation about working together?
I just love the guy, so whatever. He could want a piece to be baggy and skinny at the same time… [but] oh well, you just find a way.
This collection has been in the works for two years. It sounds like with this process, the devil was in the details. What has the back and forth on design been like?
The devil was in theoretical discussion, not in details. When you deal with a guy who wants to redesign just about anything so it could fit [into the] kingdom of dopeness, it takes some time to just sit and say, “Okay, agreed, but let’s get start on something limited, and we’ll see.”
Were any pieces tried but ultimately cut from the collection? What was the impetus to keep it so small?
No, once the devil of endless possibility was taken care of, we knew exactly what to do. Even from that condensed structure, we edited some colors and even fabric finishes. You keep it small because you just hit and run. That’s what you do. Continue Reading “Exclusive: A.P.C.’s Jean Touitou On His New Collaboration With Kanye West” »
At the Fall ’13 Couture shows, a trio of houses uprooted the bright and breezy blossoms we’ve seen of late (just take a look through the recent Resort ’14 and menswear shows, and you’ll see what we’re talking about) for a more subdued, somewhat edgier take on flora: branch and stem motifs.
Zuhair Murad printed leafless twigs across a number of dramatic gowns (above, right), evoking a pop-noir winter wonderland of sorts. In its chimerically zany collection of repurposed vintage, Swarovski spikes, and yet more Kanye-favored face masks, Maison Martin Margiela showed a fuchsia column overlaid with embroidered wildflower stems (above, center). And, lastly, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli produced a dazzling cosmos of natural-world-inspired wares at Valentino. Here, it was coral that reached around heavy brocade (above, left) and crawled up silk insets. Sure, coral is technically fauna, but its sinewy offshoots are branches nonetheless.