14 posts tagged "Kate and Laura Mulleavy"
To infinity and beyond! The new Fall collections found designers thinking intergalactically. Who could’ve guessed that we’d see Star Wars motifs at not one, but two shows? Rodarte’s Laura and Kate Mulleavy revisited their favorite childhood films with a buzzy finale of gowns featuring familiar characters like Luke Skywalker, C-3PO, and even Yoda. Just five days later, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi crossed over to the dark side with Darth Vader-printed looks and an entourage of stormtroopers who mingled with the models backstage. Others weren’t quite so literal with their outer space references. At Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld sent out a series of sheared fur coats and floaty silk velvet maxi dresses that resembled celestial charts. Elsewhere, Coach’s Stuart Vevers whipped up an Apollo sweater that echoed the one worn by Danny Torrance in The Shining. And Albert Kriemler, working closely with the German photographer Thomas Ruff, incorporated up close surface shots of Mars into several looks at Akris. Meanwhile, our award for the cleverest take on the cosmic trend goes to Undercover’s Jun Takahashi, who printed tiny UFOs on the borders of his Delft-china-patterned pieces.
Since 2010, Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy have thrice teamed with director Todd Cole to bring their collections to life. In doing so, they’ve proved a deft hand at storytelling—so deft, in fact, that their most recent film, This Must Be the Only Fantasy, which starred Elijah Wood, Sidney Williams, and Guinevere Van Seenus, was included in the Shorts Selection at this year’s American Film Institute Festival.
Last night at L.A.’s Hammer Museum, Vanity Fair West Coast editor Krista Smith led a discussion with the trio about their collaborations. “We were at the forefront of making these films in fashion,” Cole said. “And you can feel a narrative about where the clothes come from.”
Their first project was Aanteni—ancient Mayan for “a scream for help.” The short starred Guinevere Van Seenus as she ran through the industrial wasteland of downtown L.A. The Aptos, Calif.-born designers explained that a sense of place—particularly their home state—has always been a key component in their creative process. “I think that when we work, everything [goes] back to what we see and what we grew up seeing,” offered Laura. “Our process of working is about driving and seeing things and then having an idea two days later.”
While Southern California’s aeronautical engineering—a point of fascination for the designers—provided inspiration for Aanteni, an oversized brick house in Baldwin Hills influenced the Wild West element of their second film, The Curve of Forgotten Things, which featured a captivating Elle Fanning. Finally, This Must Be the Only Fantasy explored L.A.’s suburbia.
Although each film begins with a given collection, the team stressed that they’re more about the visual world that informs each season. “We wouldn’t even care if none of our clothes were in it,” said Laura. “The clothing is a brief, basically,” added Cole. “They’re such specific pieces that they call for really particular worlds. Then you pick the world, and it’s easy to tell the story.”
From the streets of New York to the Paris ateliers, fashion is in a California state of mind. For proof, look at all the references to West Coast skate, surf, rave, grunge, and lowrider subcultures on the Spring ’14 runways. Hedi Slimane, who was fetishizing Los Angeles and its underground scenes long before he landed at Saint Laurent, is at least partly responsible for this mass migration, but Kate and Laura Mulleavy deserve credit, too. After taking us “back home to Santa Cruz” last season, the Rodarte sisters’ L.A.-inspired lineup was full of chola-girl plaid shirts styled with snapbacks, satin bras, studded suspenders, and fringed skirts. Tommy Hilfiger, meanwhile, transformed Pier 94 into an epic beachscape with a boardwalk runway that complemented his sun-kissed, sporty clothes; Humberto Leon and Carol Lim channeled SoCal street racing at Opening Ceremony; and Jeremy Laing described his Spring collection as “Malibu Beach Barbie goes to a rave.”
The Spring ’14 collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Rodarte, designed by Kate and Laura Mulleavy
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Tuesday, September 10
WHAT: “Spring ’14 is inspired by asphalt.”— Kate and Laura Mulleavy. The designers sent us a Spring ’14 inspiration photo by Alec Soth, above.
Elijah Wood has been reunited with a cast of fairies, unicorns, and sword-fighting villains—but he hasn’t revived Frodo Baggins. Rather, the actor plays the regal, mysterious role of Trevor in Rodarte’s latest film, This Must Be the Only Fantasy. For their third collaboration with director Todd Cole, Kate and Laura Mulleavy—both of whom are longtime sci-fi fans—tapped Sidney Williams and Guinevere Van Seenus to star in an out-of-this-world epic while donning Rodarte’s Spring ’13 looks. “Our Spring collection was inspired by fantasy and role-playing games, and the film brings to life these ideas,” said the Mulleavy sisters, adding that they always envisioned their pal Wood as the male lead.
“I never think of these films as fashion films,” offered Cole of the project, which was shot in L.A. “I think of Kate and Laura’s clothes as more of a starting point, and then I can create a world for them to exist in.” The full twelve-minute flick will premiere this week on The Creators Project. Catch the trailer’s exclusive debut below, and keep your eye on Rodarte’s Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, et al. for more sneak peeks at the movie.