10 posts tagged "Kate Lanphear"
For his seasonal campaigns, Eddie Borgo skips the traditional model route. The jeweler has a long history of tapping fashion world insiders for his spots, beginning with Vanessa Traina and cycling through muses like stylists Giovanna Battaglia and Kate Lanphear before arriving at this season’s face, debuting here: stylist and shoe designer Tabitha Simmons.
“When I was thinking about the Fall collection, when I started to design it, I was pulling all these references from old Gucci shows and Tom Ford at YSL—there was this idea of jewelry to vamp up an outfit, to make it sexier, to give it a dark, broody feel. She very much has those types of qualities in her, Tabitha,” Borgo explains. “She has this understanding of English tradition and English style, but she also has that romantic sensibility, which lends itself to a gothic sensibility. She was very much part of the type of woman I was thinking about when I was drawing Fall.”
To create the campaign, he reunited the team who has worked with him on those that came before it: stylist Keegan Singh (who cut his teeth as Simmons’ assistant early in his career), photographer Paul Maffi, and art director Prim Chuensumran, a veteran of V.
In an age of street-style stars and editors eclipsing models, is the nod to an industry insider deliberate? (Admittedly, Simmons began her career as a model, walking for Balenciaga in the nineties.) “There’s not a specific plan behind it,” Borgo shrugged, “other than, I started my career working with stylists. I have an affinity with them. I understand how they work and respect them a lot. Some of the very first pieces I made were for Camilla Nickerson, or for Karl Templer, that then became part of my brand’s language. These are people in my life that I work with, that I respect and admire. They’re lovers of fashion, which I think is really important. They’re also real women, working women. Tabitha is really empowering and inspiring in that way.”
Eddie Borgo first made his mark with spikes and studs, but for his new collection, the New York-based jeweler has evolved his cult cool-kid aesthetic into something more intricate and grown-up. “The collection was inspired by art forms in nature,” said Borgo during his preview in a grandiose apartment at Le Palais Royale. Dressed in his signature black brimmed hat and a skinny tie, the designer thumbed through a book that, dating from the turn of the century, was filled with images of arachnids and spindly flora. This pictorial relic translated into brass necklaces, chokers and cuffs, each of which featured sculptural creepy crawlies with an architectural Art Deco edge.
“I was thinking of a dark, broody character. The themes are gothic and, upon first thought, might be a bit scary. But I wanted to find ways of making those dangerous objects in nature, that are inherently aggressive, soft and covetable,” explained the designer. And while the layered metal wasps, scorpions and praying mantises (yes, the ones that eat their mates) that hung from beads of resin, polished hematite or snowflake jasper were indeed desirable, the designer also made more feminine objects, like orchids and tiger lilies, severe with sharp lines and angular cuts. But for all the angles, there was a softness and movement, too, in lush tassels in warm autumn crimson, rust and black, and hand-dyed pheasant feathers that peeked out of ladybug earrings and a crow-motif necklace.
In addition to debuting his new collection, Borgo is the star of the 20th issue of Claudia Wu’s Me Magazine. Launched at a fete at Colette Friday evening, the new issue is a curated collection of interviews that Borgo conducted with his friends and supporters, Kate Lanphear, Giovanna Battaglia and Joseph Altuzarra among them. “These opportunities only come along once in a lifetime and I wanted to make the magazine a celebration of New York. It’s the best city in the world!” said Borgo. “The people I interviewed each had their own struggle and their own New York story. I think that’s really special and I hope we were able to articulate that in the magazine.”
We’ve already established that it’s great to wear white after Labor Day. (Designers have given us umpteen great reasons to, and the only objecting party is likely your rulebook-thumping great aunt—all due respect to the lady, but times have changed.)
That’s what to wear; here’s how to wear it. Editors and stylists hitting the shows in New York and Europe—including tastemakers like Emmanuelle Alt (bottom right) and Kate Lanphear (top)—have been layering white, menswear-style jackets over black. It’s a strong, graphic look, but the classicism of black and white keeps it anchored. What to wear below? More black, of course—unless, like Natalia Alaverdian of Russian Harper’s Bazaar (bottom left), you want to dispense with bottoms altogether.
Never a bad thing to have friends in chic places. Eddie Borgo’s coveted jewelry would stand just fine on its own, but Borgo’s habit of shooting it on his famous fans—like Vanessa Traina, Lauren Santo Domingo, and, for fall, Kate Lanphear—never hurts. Lanphear is the star of Borgo’s latest online campaign, shot by Paul Maffi and styled by Keegan Singh, which launches with his Fall ’10 collection on his Web site this Monday. There’s always a bit of menace to Borgo’s luxe pieces—note the grinning, gleaming teeth of the Horror necklace, above—making the punky Lanphear a perfect fit. “Kate is the epitome of the modern-day punk,” Borgo (named today as one of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists) told Style.com. “She encapsulates the current undertone of fashion in the most elegant, effortless way, while remaining one of the most real women in New York City.” The collection overall, Borgo goes on, was inspired by stripes, and in particular, Michel Pastoureau’s A History of Stripes—which, you might be surprised to find out, convey meanings far more sinister than the usual marinière tops. “The book has to do with the symbology of stripes marking marginalized members of society: criminals, convicts, and inmates,” the designer explains. “Eventually, people took to wearing stripes, but wore them vertically, which distinguished them from the social outcasts who had to wear them horizontally.” Food for thought whichever way you wear yours—and, as it’s hard not to notice, everybody’s taken to them strongly. “Stripes continue to be prevalent in present-day garb—they are everywhere. The symbolism behind the stripe has been unassumingly adopted into the makeup of modern-day punk culture.” Now you know. Continue Reading “Eddie Borgo Shows His Teeth” »