10 posts tagged "Kati Nescher"
There was a full moon over Medellín last week when Colombia’s favorite son, Haider Ackermann, came home. He offered a spectacular career overview to inaugurate the trade show Colombiamoda 2013 and mark the twenty-fifth anniversary of Inexmoda, an organization that tirelessly promotes the country’s fashion industry. Ackermann was barely months old when he left the country in the arms of his adoptive parents, but his return was clearly the biggest fashion event in Colombia’s history. I mean, 1,300 people turned out to hear him talk at a panel discussion on fashion entrepreneurship the day after his event. And why on earth not? How many satellite fashion entities around the world wish they could lay claim to that kind of connection, especially when Ackermann gave his gorgeous all on the catwalk? The show itself played like chapters in an autobiography, each group of clothes tellingly matched to a different snatch of music, from the spectral pulse of Ackermann’s most recent Paris presentation to Leonard Cohen’s “A Thousand Kisses Deep” from his epochal Fall 2011 offering to sounds that merged into one long, sensual fugue as the hands of time ticked further back. The designer parachuted in a platoon of familiar faces, among them Saskia de Brauw, Kati Nescher, Alana Zimmer, and Daiane Conterato, for assistance. There was also a baker’s dozen of his nearest and dearest—from his pal Jerry Stafford to his frequent traveling companion Waris Ahluwalia—for moral support. You still need friends when you’re sightseeing in Medellín.
That full moon was a reminder that the city looks best by night. Medellín is smeared across a bowl between mountain ranges, a geographic fact that becomes spectacularly clear when darkness falls and the almost vertical steepness of the settlements climbing up the enclosing walls is illuminated. Otherwise, this visitor’s most vivid impression was of a city racing to remodel itself after years of designation as the world’s most dangerous destination. Just how dangerous was made tragically, poignantly clear as almost everyone we met told stories about their own losses. It was much worse than what the journalists, who dared to descend into the hell that Pablo Escobar and his cartel cohorts created, ever detailed.
In the waning hours of 2012, New York Times critic Cathy Horyn took to her blog to weigh in on her favorites of the year and the bright spots of the year to come. Among the winners were likely choices such as Dior and Céline, but more unusual was La Horyn’s calling out of a few key Spring ad campaigns. Two of her three picks—Inez and Vinoodh’s for Miu Miu and Steven Meisel’s for Prada—you’ve already seen on Style File. The third is Mario Sorrenti’s for Max Mara: “The approach is reductive and strong,” she wrote. “You suspect he said, ‘Let’s just make something that is beautiful.’ ” In the service of displaying and promoting the beautiful, here it is.
In terms of castings, Milan designers tend to opt for tried-and-true models over fresh faces. That’s great for those of us who can’t get enough of It girls like Bette Franke, Daria Strokous, Kati Nescher, Nadja Bender, and Ava Smith—all of whom walked just about every noteworthy runway this week. (No sign of veteran Daria Werbowy, though. We’re still hoping to see her make a return in Paris.) But that makes things difficult for up-and-comers trying to gain a foothold in the industry. Still, each season Prada and casting director Ashley Brokaw continue to launch new stars with its coveted exclusive slots. Last time around, Prada debuted Vanessa Axente and Elza Luijendijk, who have each gone to succeed in major ways, and this season the lineup boasted over 15 first-season catwalkers, of which there were several standouts who continued to deliver throughout the week. Russian rookie Katya Riabynikina (pictured) went toe-to-toe with the big-name girls at Gucci on day one, then walked Prada, Bottega Veneta, Emilio Pucci, Marni, and Salvatore Ferragamo. Antonina Vasylchenko followed up her Calvin Klein exclusive with an impressive Italian tour that included appearances at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni, and Trussardi. Jil Sander was another memorable moment for new girls. There we saw both Riabynikina and Vasylchenko, as well as other notable newcomers including the opener, Natasha Remarchuk (also at Prada), closer Josephine van Delden (spotted in London at Acne, Jonathan Saunders, and Christopher Kane), and Esther Heesch, who later appeared at Marni and Salvatore Ferragamo, too. Yumi Lambert was another new recruit who made an impact this week. The half-Japanese, half-Belgian stunner walked Prada, Emilio Pucci, Fendi, and Missoni, among others.
Like many editors and card-carrying showgoers, models often skip London fashion week, too. Top-tier girls take the opportunity to rest for a few days before the whirl, while others start fittings early in Milan, and then there are the agencies that often strategically wait to release their prized new show ponies as major exclusives later on. All of which suggests that London is up for grabs in terms of modeling. The playing field is leveled for fresh faces, particularly. In recent seasons, we’ve witnessed London debuts from the likes of Marte Mei van Haaster and Kati Nescher, for example, who are two of the most in-demand girls today, and this week, there were some rookies with similar potential. Seventeen-year-old Noam Frost, a film student from Tel Aviv, clearly caught the eye of casting director Russell Marsh, who put her in the lineups at Acne, Jonathan Saunders, and Christopher Kane. Agnes Nabuurs, who had somewhat of a lukewarm start in New York, heated up across the pond, walking those Marsh-cast shows as well as Giles and Mulberry. On Monday, Spanish stunner Tamara Caravaca Suarez (pictured, right), who was first spotted at Marc Jacobs, seemingly came out of nowhere and did every major show that day: Peter Pilotto, Erdem, Giles, even the Pringle of Scotland lookbook. We’re predicting her insane bone structure (think: a more editorial Erjona Ala) will take her far in the remaining cities. Another debut we can’t stop thinking about is Michon Van As, who opened and closed Peter Pilotto and stopped at that. Why? Is Peter Pilotto the new superstar creator? Regardless, Van As, we’d better see you again—soon, preferably.
How about those girls we first noticed during NYFW? Athena Wilson, Kayley Chabot, and Juliana Schurig have all been on fire this week. Wilson opened Mary Katrantzou and closed Erdem, while Chabot did Preen and closed Richard Nicoll, and Schurig worked the wine-stained lips, smudged eyeliner, and tousled hair at Jonathan Saunders to perfection. Joining them were Calvin Klein exclusives Stephanie Hall and Josephine Le Tutour (pictured, left), who both showed up at shows that matter like J.W. Anderson (Hall) and Burberry Prorsum (Le Tutour). Those turns on key London runways might give them a leg up over the competition in Milan and Paris—at the very least, it boosted their exposure and total show count for the season. Speaking of statistics, hometown heroes Cara Delevingne and Lara Mullen had some of the most successful weeks, posting nine and 12 London appearances, respectively. Today, the big names like Anja Rubik and Joan Smalls kicked off Milan with a bang at Gucci. Newcomers will have those stars to contend with and more surprises over the next few weeks.
Is the Schwarz-Rot-Gold having a fashion moment? The answer may be yes. Germany’s Jil Sander returns to the women’s runway this Saturday in Milan. This season’s Berlin fashion week was stronger than ever, and German models new and returning ruled the catwalks. There seems to be no stopping Kati Nescher (left, in Stephan Schneider), who stomped her way through a very successful New York season. So did Toni Garrn, a Calvin Klein exclusive lo these many years ago and still working steadily today; she secured the opening spot at Ralph Lauren. If German fashion is on the rise, it’s hard to think of a better outlet to celebrate it than Achtung Mode. The magazine’s Markus Ebner—who recently weighed in on the Raf/Hedi debate for Style.com—paid tribute to his countrymen and women’s designs, modeled by Germans Nescher, Antonia Wesseloh, and new Calvin Klein discovery Thorben Gärtner, in a new story shot by Markus Pritzi on location in Berlin and Paris.