4 posts tagged "KCD"
It’s been over ten years since Irene Albright first opened the doors to the Albright Fashion Library—the more than 15,000-dress-, 7,000 shoe-strong collection of contemporary couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories now housed in a massive 7,000-square-foot loft at 62 Cooper Square. “Irene was working with KCD and saw that people were running around chasing clothes, and she just decided to start buying [important pieces],” recalled the Library’s creative director, Patricia Black. “Eventually, people would come to her saying, ‘Oh, do you still have that sweater? Can I borrow it?’”
Today, after a decade functioning as a sort of dream closet for fashion insiders, the Library is feting its history, as well as the incredible individuals who have pulled from its continually evolving archive, with Albright Goes to School, an exhibition in partnership with the Fashion Institute of Technology and MAC Cosmetics that opens this evening at the Museum at FIT.
“I wanted to celebrate Irene, the Library, the stylists—the people who were working on the inside—the shakers and tastemakers,” said Black. “Without them, we wouldn’t have what we have in terms of this colossal space just packed from floor to ceiling with clothes.”
The show—a first look debuts here—features individual looks that ten stylists (June Ambrose, Paul Cavaco, Catherine George, Tom Broecker, Freddie Leiba, Lori Goldstein, Kathryn Neale, Mary Alice Stephenson, Kate Young, and Patti Wilson) created using iconic wares from the Library. A Tom Ford goat hair jacket layers over a Comme des Garçons tank in Goldstien’s look; Balmain is mixed with Givenchy and the artist’s own choker and face mask in Leiba’s; and Patti Wilson utilizes a Lanvin body harness to sex up an otherwise high glamour Yves Saint Laurent and J.W. Anderson combo.
There’s a rich history to the institution, and Black, Museum at FIT director and chief curator Valerie Steele, and set designer Stefan Beckman were tasked with expressing that through a tight narrative. “There are some incredible stylists who pulled these outfits, but they each have their own different story,” related Beckman, who described the installation as a “gritty fire escape urban idea.”
Steele added that the Museum’s interest in the exhibition stemmed, in part, from a desire to champion stylists. “People tend to think, Oh, designers make fashion. So it was important to be able to bring in stylists and show that they also have a really important role in putting looks together.”
The ten ensembles will be on display through March 31. The show marks the beginning of a greater collaboration between FIT and the Albright Fashion Library. “Irene is such an eclectic collector of everything from fashion to art to houses to people. So who knows what she’s going to start collecting next and where we’re going to take that,” suggested Black. “[But] I’m excited about the beginnings of seeing how we get to work and inspire the new generation of kids who dream of becoming the next designer, visual director, creative director, fashion editor, stylist, or costume designer. I’m hoping that we can lend a little bit of light to them in this moment.”
With New York fashion week getting crazier by the season, it’s becoming increasingly difficult to attend all the shows and presentations one might like. A jam-packed schedule means editors are zipping across the city (and even to Brooklyn) all day long, and they simply may not have time to visit the CFDA Fashion Incubator installations. Luckily, this is all about to change—the Incubator’s ten graduating designers, including Jonathan Simkhai, Timo Weiland, Whit, Reece Hudson, and more, were able to debut their collections on DigitalFashionShows.com this morning. In addition to product images, the website will include a selection of downloadable video content. The project is a graduation gift of sorts from KCD, who owns the digital show platform. Not only will this make things easier for editors and retailers, but, more important, the designers will reach a larger audience and gain even more support from the global fashion community. Technology for the win! Check out the collections yourself at www.digitalfashionshows.com.
If you’ve ever wanted to shop the closets of serious vintage collectors, now’s your chance. Renee Barletta, vice president at fashion public-relations firm KCD, and close friend and fellow fashionista Julie Janklow have partnered on a curated collection of vintage finds under the label Barlow. “I always wore vintage. It’s a big hobby of mine, and one day I realized I have so much stuff and I collect so much stuff that I wanted to share it with people,” said Janklow of the venture. “I love the thrill of the hunt. I’m like Harrison Ford looking for the treasure. I’m Indiana Jones, or some cheesy version of him.”
Barlow—a combination of the founders’ last names—features seasonal one-of-a-kind items the pair sourced from their favorite vintage haunts and antique dealers throughout Los Angeles, New York, and London. A bohemian mix of lace tunics, beaded caftans, white cotton day dresses, and colorfully embroidered capes and ponchos, Barlow’s debut summer assortment takes cues from muses such as Talitha Getty, Loretta Lynn, and Brooke Shields. The pieces range from $100 for a simple top to $3,000 for a handwoven ombré cape. Accessories include cowboy hats, belts, and one statement necklace by Kenneth Jay Lane.
Barlow hits shelves June 18, exclusively at Warm, Winnie Beattie and Rob Magnotta’s Nolita boutique that specializes in resort wear by independent labels. Barlow is the first line to be showcased during Warm’s summer pop-up series. “I’m from L.A., and the summer collection is very beachy, with a nod to the runway,” said Janklow. “It’s inspired by the kind of girl who shops at Warm.”
Warm is located at 181 Mott Street, New York, NY 10012; (212)925-1200.
Fashion people love a controversy, but there’s one thing that reporters, market editors, and buyers can agree on: There are too many runway shows. This weekend in Paris, KCD’s Ed Filipowski announced a new initiative created to address the overcrowded fashion week schedules.
The company’s digital arm has teamed up with Tony King & Partners to launch www.digitalfashionshows, a new invitation-only platform that allows fashion professionals to watch pre-taped runway shows on their computers, iPads, and mobile phones. The new Web site will go live on February 15 at 11:30 a.m. with the debut of Prabal Gurung’s first collection for Onward Kashiyama’s ICB.
Your RSVP will get you not only the runway video, but also a short taped interview with Gurung in which he discusses the collection, as well as static pictures (front, back, and detail shots) that you can “favorite” and add notes to. There will also be beauty content, sponsored in part by MAC, in the form of interviews with the hair and makeup artists, and specifics about the products they used. An hour after the show, all of the materials will be downloadable, including the video, which will be embeddable. The content will also be archived on the site, viewable at any time during the season.
From the dawn of the Internet until now, Filipowski argued, “we’ve all been scrambling to reach beyond fashion, to target consumers. We haven’t asked, ‘how can we apply the new technology to what we as an industry need to do?’ That’s the goal of our digital division.” (The digital division was launched in December 2010.)
The cost for designers, said Filipowski, will fall between that of a traditional fashion show and a static presentation. “And it’s not for our clients alone, it’s not proprietary.”
Filipowski said he’s shown it to a handful of top editors to what he described as positive feedback. After attending nearly two full months of pre-fall shows and appointments, it looks like a positive development to this reporter. Still, we’ll always have fashion shows. “Some shows must be seen in person,” he agreed. “This is an option, not an alternative.”