5 posts tagged "Kenzo Takada"
If, like me, you are a Japanese design devotee, get ready to empty your savings account. Lynn Yaeger, acclaimed fashion journalist, New York eccentric, and aggressive wearer of Comme des Garçons, was recently appointed as the curator of vintage clothing at Yoox.com. The release of her first shoppable selection happened to coincide with Yoox’s 10th anniversary of launching in Japan. And what better way to celebrate than with a range of hard-to-find items designed by Japanese fashion demigods like Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo, Kansai Yamamoto, Kenzo Takada, Yohji Yamamoto, and Junya Watanabe? “These clothes are revolutionary in their conception and execution,” Yaeger told The Independent of the collection, which she’s titled “Mezurashi Hakken,” or “Rare Discovery” in English. “They are beyond season, they never date. Clothes that look a little strange on the hanger can be wonderful on the body. For this collection, each piece had to be a unique, interesting example of each designer’s contribution, and they have to be wearable,” added Yaeger, who reportedly scoured the world to hunt down these pivotal pieces. Judging by the number of garments that are heartbreakingly marked SOLD, it would seem that Yaeger’s debut Yoox effort is going pretty well. With that in mind, I advise you to shop quickly—these vintage treasures won’t last.
Come Thursday, Dover Street Market won’t be the only conceptual Japanese-centric retailer in town—Tokyo-based department store Isetan is bringing its Nipponista pop-up to Soho. “Isetan considers New York the hub of fashion in the business sense, and their ultimate goal is to open a permanent store,” said Kohsuke Miki, the creative director of the project. The weeklong pop-up is sponsored by both Isetan and the Japanese government’s Cool Japan initiative, through which the Ministry of Economy, Trade, and Industry aims to promote Japanese products, craft, and technique abroad.
“For more than twenty years, there hasn’t been significant [Japanese] talent that actually surpasses the talent that existed before it,” Kohsuke said. “In the eighties there was Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, and in the seventies there was Issey Miyake, Kansai Yamamoto, and Kenzo Takada.” Kohsuke believes that Nipponista, a cuter construct of the word Japanophile, is the right first step in establishing the new guard of Japanese creative talent and design.
Nipponista’s 2,000-square-foot space, which debuts exclusively here, features wares from some of the heritage brands Kohsuke mentioned—there’s a vintage Yohji Yamamoto ensemble, as well as choice pieces from Kansai Yamamoto’s latest collection (he revived his brand in 2013). But a coterie of designs from five emerging talents, who were commissioned to craft clothes in traditional Japanese indigo, or “Japanese blue,” is the centerpiece. Other fashion offerings include handmade sneakers from Hender Scheme, wearable embroidery from Maison des Perles, geometric jewelry from Shihara, delicate scarves from Suzusan, and garments from Anrealage and Yoko Chan, among others. Everything in the shop—even the giant window display of a teddy bear, which was constructed with hundreds of tiny balloons by artist duo Daisy Balloon—was made in Japan. Continue Reading “Nipponista Lands in New York: Finally, a Pop-Up Store That’s Worth Visiting” »
Following the likes of recent Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize winners like Thomas Tait and Anndra Neen‘s Phoebe and Annette Stephens, designers Annelie Augustin (pictured, left) and Odély Teboul (pictured, right) of Paris-based label Augustin Teboul have been announced as the prestigious award’s 2012 winners. The duo’s all-black collection won over the judging panel, made up of designers like Kenzo Takada, Bruno Frisoni (pictured, center), and Nathalie Rykiel, last night at Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris. The two beat out rising labels such as Calla, IRM Design, Les Garçons Paris, and Quentin Veron for the $39,000 prize. “We are very moved,” Teboul told WWD. “At the moment, Annelie and I do everything ourselves.” If Tait and the Anndra Neen girls are any example, then that won’t be the case for Augustin Teboul much longer thanks to their new funds to amp up their studio staff. Watch this space.
It’s been a banner year chez Kenzo. The Parisian label celebrated its 40th birthday in 2010, and while its legendary founder, Kenzo Takada, has retired from the helm (he now works on a home-goods collection), his successor, Antonio Marras, has kept the home fires burning. There was a gorgeous Spring show in Paris this October (“ludicrous[ly] beautiful,” Tim Blanks declared); a retrospective tribute takes place at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum today; and there’s a new coffee-table tome (Rizzoli, $75) dedicated to the history of the house. It’s lavishly illustrated with clippings from the archives, sketches from both Takada and Marras, ad campaigns, runway shots, and all the details you could want. Which, at Kenzo, would be a lot. The house’s signatures—wild prints, especially florals; folk-inspired layering; and billowing silhouettes—reward close inspection. And for just that reason, the book is full of foldouts, posters, and, smack-dab in the center, a large-scale pop-up like your kiddie books used to have (below). It’s a riot of flowers bursting into bloom, with the Eiffel Tower standing at the center, and the Japanese rising sun, in homage to Takada’s home country and the label’s spiritual home.