2 posts tagged "Kilian Kerner"
The schedule for Berlin fashion week Spring/Summer 2015 may lack extravaganzas like the stadium-sized picnic and all-night party that Boss Orange hosted for Spring 2010, but a number of smaller, local designers are stepping into the breach.
Instead of occupying the historic but cramped Brandenburg Gate and Bebelplatz sites, which World Cup festivities have taken over just now, Berlin fashion week resides happily in the Erika-Hess-Eisstadion. This vast, open-air ice rink from the sixties has been converted into a breezy main tent. The local German designers, such as Lena Hoschek and Michael Sontag, as well as visitors from emerging fashion cities including a showcase of African designers, presented sensible but still compelling collections.
The evident outliner was Kilian Kerner (pictured, left), a designer who grew up with Berlin fashion week itself. This is Kerner’s tenth BFW season, and he has ripened into a designer whose garments gracefully fill the space left by labels like Boss. Kerner always cites music and club culture as his muse. In his early days, he reveled in silver PVC jeans, slinky Lurex dresses, and shimmering striped zoot suits.
Kerner’s chic Spring 2015 collection is too pretty, light, and precious to hide in a dark club. For women, he assembled floating fabrics in sorbet shades, with a subtle seventies-inspired silhouette, clusters of gold beading, and light layers of quilted silk. His men paid explicit homage to his origins by wearing shirts, briefs, and a full suit made from a print featuring a stained-glass window with Rihanna, Bowie, and Justin Bieber enshrined as saints. With Kerner’s new relaxed cuts and premium fabrics, these pieces were a solid start to a more grown-up Berlin fashion week.
Throughout Berlin fashion week, Alonso Dominguez will report back on the best and brightest shows. To view our complete coverage, click here.
The last day of Berlin fashion week kicked off with Issever Bahri (left)—a young label (founded in 2010) designed by German-Turkish duo Derya Issever and Cimen Bachri. For Fall ’13, the pair put forth a minimal, neutral collection of long silk shirts and oversize knits. These were worn with black leather trousers and short skirts in wool velvet. Demure dresses brought a youthful femininity to the collection.
Over at Vladimir Karaleev, deconstruction was the name of the game. The conceptual designer sent men and women in unfinished gabardine, wool, and rubber garments down his runway. Key looks included a cream woven sweater with a mesh detail that exposed the model’s torso and a cropped see-through-plastic electric blue jacket with faux-fur sleeves.
At Dawid Tomaszewski, one of the most anticipated shows of the week, there were smoky-eyed models wearing sculptural black and dark gray looks in leather and silk. Applications like rubber patches on tights and copper-colored metallic belts and cummerbunds gave the collection a futuristic feel, while baded embroidery and carefully tailored jackets and capes were evidence of the designer’s attention to detail.
Michael Michalsky’s show—the last of the evening—was held at an off-site location. For men, there were rolled-up trousers, dark blazers, and leather jackets. Illustrator Bendix Bauer designed Michalsky’s custom Fall print, which appeared on trousers, shirts, and a suit. For the ladies, the designer showed long silk and lace dresses and skirts paired with thick coats, dark blazers, or sequined jackets. Mini polka dots covered aqua blouses and long skirts, and the black chiffon finale gown—nipped at the waist with a bowed belt—closed the show (and for that matter, Berlin fashion week) with a flash of drama.