13 posts tagged "Kim Jones"
Worn by cowboys, bandits, protesters, punks, and hip-hoppers alike, bandannas have earned a rebellious rep over the years. This summer, fashion has latched onto the rule-breaking look. Perennial street-style favorite Hanne Gaby Odiele pioneered the trend back in February, when she was snapped sporting a standard-issue black kerchief on multiple occasions in Paris. Since then, designers have taken up hankies, too. Andreas Melbostad’s recent Resort collection for Diesel Black Gold included a graphic black-and-white print that resembled, as he put it, an “aggressive bandanna.” And at the menswear shows at the end of last month, Kim Jones featured the classic paisley motif in his Louis Vuitton lineup, while Hedi Slimane sent models rocking rockabilly red scarves down the Saint Laurent runway. They were big with the street-style set, too.
Before Kim Jones was a fashion designer, he had an eye on zoology. “I was going to be a zoologist, and then I thought, It’s too much work. I opened The Face magazine and thought, Who are these cool people?”
So began a career in fashion that wended its way through a namesake label, Umbro, and Dunhill before landing Jones as menswear style and studio director at Louis Vuitton. Which may be the perfect place for an armchair zoologist. Travel is in Vuitton’s bones—the maison began as a trunk-maker in the nineteenth century—and remains central to the brand’s image of itself. To celebrate the spirit of luxury travel, last night the house brought Jones together with one of his musical idols, the disco producer Giorgio Moroder, the producer and photographer Daniela Federici, and Condé Nast Traveler‘s Mark Connolly for a conversation about travel and luxury at its Soho store.
Luxury may have taken a shred too much of the spotlight—”If there is not a five-star hotel, I just don’t go,” Moroder admitted, and first-class airfare and top-quality accommodations were mentioned often—but Jones’ passion for the globe’s farthest reaches was the real point of interest. He lived, as it turns out, in Africa from age 3 to 14, going back for summers and continuing to travel there twice a year. But that’s only a sliver of his globe-trotting. After the panel wrapped up, Jones confessed he was jet-lagged from a just-finished trip to New Zealand to see rare parrots. The animal kingdom and travel go hand in hand for him: His Fall men’s collection was inspired in part by the snow leopards he saw in Bhutan, and he said his bucket-list trip would be India in December to see the tigers—tricky, since menswear shows in January.
As for Moroder, who scored Jones’ Fall ’12 show, he is less interested in exotica than the human animal. He shared a gem about his time working with the force of nature that was Donna Summer. Their first hit together was “Love to Love You, Baby.” “I played the song to some publishers, and they were happy, but they thought she should moan,” he recalled. They went back to the studio; “I said, ‘Let’s hear it,’ but she couldn’t open her mouth.” He dismissed everyone but Summer, and lo and behold, a moan was born. She moaned for about ten minutes straight, as he remembered it. To say they got it would be an understatement: extended cuts of the single now run to sixteen-plus minutes long.
Plus: Jones recently shared his other obsession—the over-the-top club regalia designed by Leigh Bowery and London’s eighties designers—with Style.com/Print. Here, his collection of Bowery, Rachel Auburn, Andre Walker, and more, styled by Jones himself.
Out of the mystic comes “The Stars (Are Out Tonight),” a new Bowie video. This one is a lot less oblique than the video that artist Tony Oursler made for “Where Are We Now?,” the first single from Bowie’s startling comeback album, and that’s mostly because director Floria Sigismondi’s natural genius with a twisted narrative (case in point: Marilyn Manson’s “The Beautiful People” promo) gels so well with what one imagines is Bowie’s own predilection for the cinematically perverse. “The Stars” sumptuously elevates the man and the myth to new heights.
This particular offering toys with the androgyny, the bravado, the decadence, the desire that turns an ordinary human being into a raving fan. It also has a strong contemporary-fashion quotient, appropriate given that Bowie was, in a way that the upcoming exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum will surely clarify, always inclined to the fashion experiment—from the early days of his Kansai jumpsuits to McQueen frock coats and Hedi Slimane suits.
Stylist Jerry Stafford was responsible for dressing the cast of five for the two-day shoot in L.A.: models Saskia de Brauw, Andrej Pejic, and Iselin Steiro, plus Bowie himself and his co-star Tilda Swinton, with whom Stafford has worked for fifteen years. Stafford is, like me, a child of Bowie, but he says there was no time on the set for fandom. “Everyone understood they were part of something special.” There was one moment when Stafford presented Bowie with a long coat, explaining to him it was by a designer named Rick Owens. “More Rick Wakeman than Rick Owens,” was the response, Wakeman being the wizard-coat-wearing keyboard king of Brit prog rock. “He played piano on ‘Life on Mars?,’ ” chimed in Stafford, the sole moment when he let himself indulge his know-every-last-detail trainspotter obsession. “And, indeed, on the whole of Hunky Dory,” Bowie said with a knowing smile. Continue Reading “Inside David Bowie’s “The Stars (Are Out Tonight)”” »
They’re a wrap. The British Fashion Awards have just come to a close in London, where Valentino, First Lady Samantha Cameron, and Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood were all on hand to present awards. The takeaway: The Brits really, really like their homegrown hero, Stella McCartney, who walked off with both Designer of the Year and Designer Brand of the Year. They’ve also got no problem being repeat commenders. Kim Jones of Louis Vuitton won Menswear Designer of the Year for the second year running, and Alexa Chung got the British Style Award—the ceremony’s people’s-choice prize—for the third year running. Style.com/Print cover girl Cara Delevingne won model of the year (see some of our shoot with her here), beloved/feared Central Saint Martins professor Louise Wilson took the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator, and outgoing British Fashion Council chairman Harold Tillman, who will leave the post at the end of this year, won a special recognition. The complete winners are below; check back tomorrow for our complete coverage from the ceremony.
DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton
ACCESSORY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
DESIGNER BRAND OF THE YEAR
MODEL OF THE YEAR
RED CARPET AWARD
NEW ESTABLISHMENT AWARD
BRITISH STYLE AWARD
ISABELLA BLOW AWARD FOR FASHION CREATOR
OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT IN FASHION
A disco queen has died. “Last Dance” quips may be expected. But Donna Summer’s influence was great. She didn’t just have a moment—she had 17, the epic length of “Love to Love You, Baby,” the track she recorded with Giorgio Moroder, the Italian producer with whom she helped to shape the entire genre of dance music. If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, borrowing may go one better—and everyone from Madonna to Whitney to Diana to Beyoncé has sampled Summer. Several generations of one-namers recognize her as one of their own.
Summer’s onstage style may not have been as influential as some of her fellow seventies dollies. But her music gave the beat to the better part of a generation. She had a catalog of hits nearly unrivaled among disco divas, and continued well into the pop/R&B of the eighties: In addition to “Love to Love You, Baby” and “Last Dance,” there were “I Feel Love,” “MacArthur Park,” “Bad Girls,” “On the Radio,” and “She Works Hard for the Money.” She won five Grammys and a place in the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.
The fashion world has long appreciated Summer. In 2010, she and Marc Jacobs duetted on “On the Radio” at the opening of Louis Vuitton’s New Bond Street maison. (Kim Jones, Vuitton’s menswear designer, later called on Moroder to create and spin the soundtrack to his Fall ’12 men’s show, too.)
Summer died this morning, following a private battle with cancer. She was 63.